FJ40/55 motor mounts

[SleeZee]

Hi all- I've got a 76' FJ40 with an FJ55 engine/trans/mounts in it. It has recently come to my attention that either the rear mounts or the bell housing may be different. That's actually my question- I recently purchased a set of motor mounts and nothing seems to line up in the rear. I literally watched the frame slowly spring back to shape when I released the rear motor mount bolts. This motor was stuffed in redneck style, and so I've spent most of my time just tightening things up and undoing poor work. Forcing the rear mounts to "work" is very consistent with what I've seen elsewhere on the vehicle.
What am I looking at to correct it? Proper FJ40 mounts? Bell housing? All of the above?
Many thanks!

 

[SleeZee]

...photo just bc I know.

 

[Pighead]

Bellhousings are the same, mounts are different...pics of your mounts?

 

[SleeZee]

I don't have pics of the mounts- ill take a couple tomorrow though.
I know they are the 55 mounts....

 

[Pighead]

55 mounts work on a 55 frame...I think you need 40 mounts.

 

[SleeZee]

I sort of suspected that.... Thank you very much for the help.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Here in Ecuador I am awaiting a set of motor mounts for my 1970 FJ40. Nothing "weird" going on but apparently at least the right rear is broken. Regardless, I was searching the site and looking at pretty much anything associated with the mounts and NO ONE has a picture showing the exhaust running right past the hole in the frame for access to the left rear mount. Without dropping the exhaust there is no way to get into that frame hole to access the bolt head for removal, bummer. I will travel to St. Louis in October for my daughter's wedding and bring home a trove of parts including a new MAF 6-1 header so I may have to wait until then to remove the exhaust and access that motor mount.

 

[65swb45]

Here in Ecuador I am awaiting a set of motor mounts for my 1970 FJ40. Nothing "weird" going on but apparently at least the right rear is broken. Regardless, I was searching the site and looking at pretty much anything associated with the mounts and NO ONE has a picture showing the exhaust running right past the hole in the frame for access to the left rear mount. Without dropping the exhaust there is no way to get into that frame hole to access the bolt head for removal, bummer. I will travel to St. Louis in October for my daughter's wedding and bring home a trove of parts including a new MAF 6-1 header so I may have to wait until then to remove the exhaust and access that motor mount.

Nobody said it would be EASY!;p Often times I access the bolt thru an adjoining hole in the frame. Putting a piece of tape over one side of a box end wrench really helps to keep ahold of the bolt while you're working in there.

Best

Mark A.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Thanks As of today the motor mounts have cleared customs and are on their way down here to Cuenca from Quito so hopefully I can pick them up tomorrow. From the pictures these new square mounts have a stud on one side and a tapped hole on the other whereas the original ones appear to be a through bolt. When I get the right rear off I will head for SuperPernos (super bolt) and see if I can get something close and then grind a flat and drill a hole for the cotter pin.

 

[fj user]

Bellhousings are the same, mounts are different...pics of your mounts?

^ What pighead said. I just went through this putting a 40 drivetrain in a 55. Motor mount brackets AND bushings are different at the bellhousing. You mentioned buying new mounts - were you referring to steel brackets that bolt to the bellhousing or rubber/poly bushings? I have the correct 40 brackets for you if you need them.

 

[cuencanolenny]

The rubber/metal pieces and the late model square for the front. I have the right side done, wasn't too bad, installed new bolts, nuts, washers. Now working the left front. This old round mount is different installation than the right side in that the right side was a stud through the frame on the bottom and a bolt in the top. The left side has a stud each direction requiring much more clearance for removal than the motor wants to go. So........I'm wondering whether the three bolts holding the motor mount bracket to the block pass through to oil? Anybody know for sure? I can get enough load off the mount for easy removal but don't want a surprise oil mess.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Nope, no oil issue so that went easily enough. But the last one, left rear, what a chore that is to get to. After dropping the exhaust system, and finding that only one bolt was installed at the donut, I was able to use a socket with knuckle and short extension to hold it while breaking loose the nut. Not much room to work with. Also noticed there is no spring on the throwout arm so I'll get one of those along with new bolts tomorrow.

 

[cuencanolenny]

FJ40 Motor Mounts

The right rear is the easiest for access. I used a block of wood on top of what I call a $20 floor jack. It actually cost me about $60 down here but it is identical to one I bought at Al's Auto Supply in Seattle in August 1991 for $20. While I used new bolts, nut and washers the factory setup calls for a drilled bolt with castle nut and cotter key.
The right front was pretty easy as well although removal of battery and tray was required for access. In that picture you can see my lovely road draft tube. I would like to replace this and convert to a proper PCV system at some point. I still hold out hope that with a cleaned oil pan, new oil pump, cleaned oil holes in the rocker shaft that I can save this motor, they are rugged but this one has had poor maintenance. When I replaced the radiator hoses and thermostat I noted that it did not have a thermostat, bad for the motor, and there was quite a bit of discoloration that wouldn't be as bad with proper maintenance.
The left front required removal of the air cleaner housing, alternator and bracket attached to the block. The old round mount was stud high and low and I could not lift high enough to clear it. Easy enough to remove the bracket though.
The left rear is the bugger of the bunch and required dropping the exhaust from the manifold and all frame attach points to get it out of the way. Through the access holes in the frame channel a person can get a combination wrench positioned on the bolt head while breaking the nut loose on the top side. A block of wood on end up under the oil pan/block provided sufficient access to remove and replace the mount. Only the right front was actually sheared in half. The pucks at the rear were badly deformed but were just hard, not sure if I will notice an improvement.

 

[SleeZee]

Okay- just an update...
I scored the correct mounts. Here's a comparison. Dirty mount is the one I removed that had been forced in. Major difference!!
No drama on the swap, 20min and she's all squared away now

 

[SleeZee]

Just to clarify, I only changed the passenger side mount. That's why 20min