FJ40 1972-1977 Hazard Switch Connector & Terminals Identification (1 Viewer)

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Ackcruisers

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Can anyone identify the type of terminals that go inside the harness side connector for a 1972 - 9/77 hazard switch?

It appears to be a spade type non gender compression terminal. If anyone knows the correct type that would help in my sourcing.

My guess is this was made specifically for Toyota by Sumotomo and they are long out or production anywhere on earth.

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Thanks @ToyotaMatt I’ve exchanged emails with Coolerman and it is confirmed, these do not exist anymore. I’ll post and update when I find a good alternative connector/terminal.
 
one thing to remember here , this is the ONLY use of a SIAMESE connectors set that i have ever seen TOYOTA ever use ?

i find that topic alone VERY ODD ?
 
I’ve had three sources in separate continents who are experts in vintage connectors report these are ancient history. The only way forward is to reproduce or choose alternatives.
 
.

if it's NOT a OEM TOYOTA parts maker YAZAKI or SUMITOMO alternative solution , then the BAR is lowered to a DETROIT level ...


thus making it a Passe' product to incorporate into any 9/72-1977 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55



in Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser History in general , when ever a NON-MADE-JAPAN alternative needed parts solution is initially accepted because it's the EAST way out ...

down the Road , it proves inferior and poor choice in the end of the day


case and points :



- WEBBER Carburetors SUCK ...

- headers are problematic and leak at all the gaskets have a short service life compared to a manifolds OEM set up

- who loves there aftermarket ignition system, and will brag about it here ?

- yea right

- poly fuel tanks , leak and are stupid cheap 2nd rate topic


- and the list goes on




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Not direct to these connectors as I’ve yet to come across but if you get bored - Yazaki has a handy catalogue if you haven’t come across it already.


I’m curious why a 10pin locking or tangless terminal housing for .250in terminals wasn’t used, this is so specific.

A quick jump to eastern beaver and you could get something like this. Corsa Technic and a few others are handy for getting the Sumitomo/Yazaki collection. Not sure if you’d like to move to a sealed connector but since it’s in the dash, I’d say not necessary.


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The hazard connector or as @Coolerman refers to them as the “waffle connectors” really is a strange one off connector used from 1973-1977 harnesses. I am looking into making the terminals and 3D printing the connectors. The additive manufacturing industry has come a long way. For those interested, checkout how this restoration company makes vintage NLA terminals.

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I'm building my own harness - we're working on the same thing. I am looking at my 1980 hazzard switch and it is an 8-pin Yazaki 8P250 CNA Tang-Less Set. Only 6 wires in mine.

Now... if I could just fine the OEM striped wire source.
Are you using your old harness as a template? The OEM wire in my view is not as good as the striped wire that is available today (GXL and SXL). If you or someone in the future needs to peel back the harness tape to trace wires, the spiral stripe is far easier to see than OEM parallel stripe.
 
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The spiral stripe is far easier to see than OEM parallel stripe.
I am using my original as a template. However, I'm doing a 1HZ conversion which allows me to simplify it even further. Active decision making going on. I was originally going to replace everything with delphi weatherpack connectors as they are water tight and readily available. After going down the rabbit hole that is Yazaki and Sumitomo I'm probably going to salvage all the switch connectors or replace with new plastic where they are available. They are actually less expensive, but require more labor and learning curve.

Although I've sourced almost every relay and connector to put this back harness back to OEM, the fuse box seems to be a decision point. The new Eaton Bussman or Littlefield fuse and relay centers seem really appealing and I can put it up in the engine bay. A marine style breaker panel also has its merits... but probably overthinking it.

I've opened the whole loom now and have come to the same conclusion regarding the striping. The GXL and SXL spiral wires are likely easier to see without grabbing each wire and twisting it. Also, anywhere the wires were bare or exposed, the color has completely faded to a grey and they seem hardened/brittle. I can replace everything and tidy it up with new tape and split plastic or mesh nylon. I was originally going to just use the split corrugated nylon where it was originally used (2nd photo), but after taking this all apart there was piles and piles of dirt and dust as it never drained out. Maybe self adhering silicone tape and the mesh is indeed better.


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- WEBBER Carburetors SUCK ...

- headers are problematic and leak at all the gaskets have a short service life compared to a manifolds OEM set up

- who loves there aftermarket ignition system, and will brag about it here ?

- yea right

- poly fuel tanks , leak and are stupid cheap 2nd rate topic


- and the list goes on
But…

It is WEBER :)

If you know how to wrench then a weber is a good alternative to oem … super easy to work on… very easy to rebuild … abundant parts

Too many guys have underlying issues and think slapping a new thing on their truck without proper tuning will solve an issue.

Stainless steel headers are great… I had a ceramic coated header that looked new after being on car for 18 years that we had as a DD then even sat for years not rot out… usually when headers leak it’s when they use inferior gaskets and not the oem toyota ones… or they don’t fit it first and check the mating surface.. you get the same issue with oem manifolds … that’s why guys get the remflex because thicker gasket takes care of some issues that people overlook when installing the manifold or header

I have an old Allison electronic conversion optical system on 40… 30 years only had an issue twice … both times my fault … they were bought out by crane cams and are sold by them under their name… great system that you can adjust the dwell even … my dwell is dead on to oem, you can’t usually get the dwell perfect even with points lol

Lots of guys run the pertronix and love it

Jim’s poly rear fuel cell is awesome addition to any cruiser and very much not second rate … so not all poly tanks are bad

I have had oem stuff turn out to be a headache… oem voltage regulators being one

Everything is on a curve of success and failure usually oem works out better as it’s a plug and play … many guys go different routes for various reasons … mostly parts availability… the 90’s was a bad time to get parts from dealers even into the 2000’s

The good thing is that the land cruiser is so stupid easy most cases anything will work … that’s why a lot of trail fixes usually stay :meh:

Sorry Matt feeling a bit opinionated today … like everyone else … we all got one

Let’s not shame our fellow mudders for not using oem… let’s be nurturing lol :)

 
I'm building my own harness - we're working on the same thing. I am looking at my 1980 hazzard switch and it is an 8-pin Yazaki 8P250 CNA Tang-Less Set. Only 6 wires in mine.

Now... if I could just fine the OEM striped wire source.
I used Harley Stripe Automotive Wire - 540 Colors Available - Custom Len - https://4rcustomswire.com/ for my OEM striped wires and purchased the heavier wires from Coolerman.
They carry striped 18g & 16g and some others, but the 10g, 12g, I got from Coolerman.
I rebuilt my entire harness.
 
I used Harley Stripe Automotive Wire - 540 Colors Available - Custom Len - https://4rcustomswire.com/ for my OEM striped wires and purchased the heavier wires from Coolerman.
They carry striped 18g & 16g and some others, but the 10g, 12g, I got from Coolerman.
I rebuilt my entire harness.

Post some images of your work. What year harness did you build?

4customswire is s great company. I have ordered striped wire from them but support @Coolerman where I can because of his knowledge and massive contribution to this community.

I am in the process of remanufacturing the connectors and terminals that are NLA. This will help anyone in the future looking to make a stock 1973+ harness. Barrel connector for instrument cluster and fuse block green, black and white connectors as well as the hazard harness side connector.

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Post some images of your work. What year harness did you build?

4customswire is s great company. I have ordered striped wire from them but support @Coolerman where I can because of his knowledge and massive contribution to this community.

I am in the process of remanufacturing the connectors and terminals that are NLA. This will help anyone in the future looking to make a stock 1973+ harness. Barrel connector for instrument cluster and fuse block green, black and white connectors as well as the hazard harness side connector.

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The barrel connector is available from @ToyotaMatt
My harness is 1978.
Yes the connectors for the fuse block would be helpful. I got them from ToyotaMatt as well! I don't know how big of a supply he has of them.

See post 14 for the rear harness and 82 for the main harness
 
@V8FJ4078 awesome work on your 1978 harness. Just curious, how many hours do you think you've committed to the new harness? @ToyotaMatt has connectors that no one else has... I'll connect with him before I go any further.
 
Thanks! probably about 2 weeks (2-4 hours a night) and lots of planning since I also added a second fuse block to feed accessories and added wires for the AC, TPI, and eliminated the emissions items not used on the Chevy 350. So in addition to the factory I removed things and added others. I also updated the windshield wiper motor to a volvo motor which switches ground and power, so have the original wiring and the new wiper wiring in the system that I could switch back if I wanted. I also documented lengths on things to have a rough idea on lengths, but haven't gone back and compiled that yet. It's easy...just do one wire at a time....
 

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