@landtank 2 questions; 1) In the fender meaning if you removed the outer fender for say trimming you would see this relay? 2) Is this a common failure point? If not how was it isolated to this relay?
First time my 80 has let me down/towed
- Thread starter scrowley
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It mounts to the inner fender near the ABS actuatorv
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- #43
It takes 2 min to swap it out. One 12mm.
I understand but how did you isolate the problem to the fuel pump relay? I am going through the same thing. I have removed the relay and disassembled it and the contacts look fairly clean. I will burnish them like in @landtank write-up to see what comes of it. I
Ive had problems with that relay before. And Scott mentioned a few tines it seemed to be more prevalent pulling up a hill.
My first check based on the hill comment is to do a brake stand and see if that creates the problem. It didnt so on to the next possibility which is the FPR.
Its during those times that FPR will switch over to the high side to drice the pump at full voltage.
So diagnosing this was some intuition and a little experience
My first check based on the hill comment is to do a brake stand and see if that creates the problem. It didnt so on to the next possibility which is the FPR.
Its during those times that FPR will switch over to the high side to drice the pump at full voltage.
So diagnosing this was some intuition and a little experience
And ye of much skepticism shall bow to the ample experience and intuition of @landtank, and trust in his divine knowledge of the 80 series, so Sayeth landcruisinmy93
In your opinion should one swap this relay out for a fresh one on a rig with over 200k? sounds like it is a wearable part, already swapped out the EFI relay. I usually abide to the "dont' fix it if not broken" but this one could cause some major problems in the boonies.....
Well, im ordering one when i get home..
Im super charged and from this experience i think that the pumps operation was probably inconsistant even though the truck seemed to be running fine.
Evidence of this is with the longer starts with the old relay in there
Im super charged and from this experience i think that the pumps operation was probably inconsistant even though the truck seemed to be running fine.
Evidence of this is with the longer starts with the old relay in there
worked out perfect! had some rock auto store credit, good way to use it. looks like rock auto has the denso one which I assume whom makes them for toyota, $45 bucks or so.
Ordered one myself.
If you are SC i would highly recommend replacing this. Most of the time the truck is in open loop which means if the pump output does vary the ECU wont detect it. And that varying will certainly mean a lean condition
If you are SC i would highly recommend replacing this. Most of the time the truck is in open loop which means if the pump output does vary the ECU wont detect it. And that varying will certainly mean a lean condition
What led me to start following this thread was the melted fuse. I had a slightly melted efi fuse occurrence on sunday. I have followed the burnishing step of the relay but I have other problems elsewhere. I have 14 amps across the efi fuse. It is hot to the touch after several minutes of idling along with the efi relay. I will have to start looking at all connections and searching for a high impedance to ground on the respective circuits. It has to happen on the efi fuse....can you say searching for a needle in cruiser. Oh well I will try to make a list via the EWD and picking away I guess. I probably will just start a new thread. I already boogered this one up.
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- #52
I went wheeling in PA over the weekend...600 miles. Truck ran great. I'm convinced it's fixed.
To note my relay bench tested goid as per fsm. The terminals looked brand new. I even plugged the old relay back in and it started. Went for ride it died. So the relay was intermittent while going bad.
To note my relay bench tested goid as per fsm. The terminals looked brand new. I even plugged the old relay back in and it started. Went for ride it died. So the relay was intermittent while going bad.
What I do in these circumstances is to start methodically unplugging stuff from the circuit until the load disappears. Think of the trucks wiring like a tree. Start at the truck and unplug major branches. Then when you identify the major branch continue down that one to a sub branch and so on until you find the problem.