- Year
- 1994
- Vehicle Model
- 70 Series
- Location
- Fayetteville, North Carolina United States
- Mileage
- 174390
- Color
- White
Build Date: March 1994 (model year 1994)
Model: FZJ75LV-MRU
VIN: FZJ75-0020839
Engine: 1FZ-F
Color: White (045)
Trim: LA10 (grey)
Trans: H150F (5-speed)
Axle: K084 (9.5” rear, 4.11, locking differentials front and rear)
Miles: 174,390km (108,360mi)
Fuel Tank: 90l single tank (24 gal)
Hello IH8MUD.
I’m selling my LHD 1994 Troopy that I had imported by a friend and bought in 2019 from an auction from the Turkish government, where they probably bought it from Toyota Gibraltar Stockholdings. Time’s have changed and I’m in need of a 4 door Land Cruiser to support starting a family (that will also fit in my new house’s lower garage), and as much as I want to keep it, I’m now listing it for sale.
It spent a tougher life in Turkey, and since my ownership has enjoyed a more relaxed life as a garaged family tourer that I have done my best within my means to continue being mechanically sound. It had 130,300km on it, and it now currently has 174,390km on it. Most of the mileage was from our holiday trips my wife and I took it from CA to OR to UT every year. I would probably say a good 10% of the mileage though was spent on dirt track where I would occasionally take the truck camping. I just recently over Thanksgiving drove from North Carolina to Rhode Island in it (about 1400mi) with no issues.
1FZ-F carbureted engine (originally rated at 188hp, 268ftlb@2800rpm). Originally when I bought the truck I was a bit hesitant about how much I would enjoy it because it’s not the more common and desired 1HZ engine. But, after owning it for 4 years I’ve grown to really enjoy the power, low end torque, and quiet smoothness of the engine. The only real negative I can think of is that it will use up more fuel than most other engines offered for a Troopy. Generally on a single tank I can get 310mi(500km) out of a tank driving at 71mph(115km) about 15mpg - but as soon as you hit about 77mph(125km) the range drops to about 248mi(400km) about 12.5mpg when using about 20gal of fuel per stop.
H150 manual transmission. Heavy duty transmission that's geared beautifully low. The 1FZ could definitely do better with a taller 5th gear ratio, but the good news is that it will go up any grade in 5th gear.
Factory heat, no AC. Unfortunately the truck did not come with factory AC, but it does have a great heater. When I lived in CA and UT, the air was super dry and the weather was very mild that not having AC was almost never an issue. The only time in San Diego I wanted it was one summer in August, and when I was driving from Lake Tahoe to Utah and there was a big fire there in 2021. When I was living in GA and now in NC, not having AC definitely sucked from July to early September. I bought solar screens for all windows from CMS 4x4 (including windshield and front windows for camping) to help reflect sunlight which helps a good amount. I haven’t yet, but if I were to keep this I would definitely do a ceramic tint on all windows. Joe's Classic Cruiser's occasionally has aftermarket AC units for sale that theoretically shouldn't be too hard to retrofit, but I'm just so busy now that it's kind of out of the question for me to do.
Straight chassis with little to no rust. The Turkish government rhino-lined the frame and the wheel wells, but underneath the rhino lining, the frame is solid. There’s dust and dirt on it from use, but the frame is solid. To be super transparent, I did get rear ended in the truck once, but the car slid underneath the Troopy and the only damage was bending the rear steps to get into the back of the Troopy.
Body wise - maybe a 6/10. It’s a truck that looks great from 10ft away, but once you’re within 2-3 feet you can see a good handful of dings and different hues of white. The exact history of the Troopy prior to my ownership is unknown, but I think the front half of it got resprayed at one point in time. The hood has a slight dent in one of the creases that goes from the driver side to the front of the hood. Where the fuel door is there’s a long scrape. Where the rear bumper is, there is “chafing” from the plastic rear bumper surrounds. The infamous Troopy windshield surround rust is starting to become apparent. I’ll post more detailed photos later for every spot I see. The good news is, nothing is so far gone from saving, and there are no “rust holes”.
The interior is pretty spartan. This truck is like a “workmate” trim with vinyl floors, manual windows, almost no buttons on the dash, there’s not much to go wrong. I did spray the interior with SecondSkin’s Dampifier Pro dampening mats and spray it with their Spectrum product to reduce the amount of noise bouncing around in the truck when it’s empty. On top of the interior SecondSkin, there’s MonsterLiner dyed in a generic white. I have also bolted in L-Track to tie things down in the massive trunk of the Troopy. The driver and passenger seats have been replaced by Smart Car seats on top of a Planted seat bracket (why? the gas tank is right below the driver and passenger, and the smart car seats I found have thin bases to go on top of the planted seat bracket so that the seats weren’t too high). I unfortunately sold the original seats and seat brackets, I do regret it a bit since an upholstery shop probably could have saved them but the current seats are at least x5 more comfortable than the original ones. If I were to keep this I would probably just bite the bullet and go with Scheel-Mann seats as many use Troopy’s for long distance touring.
Rust. This truck has some rust as mentioned above with the body, but not a lot. The biggest problem spot of rust that this truck had was the passenger side foot well. I guess some salt and water got in between the butyl and body panel many many years ago, and over time the floor board rusted from the top down. When I first purchased this truck my friend and I cut it out and welded a new floor board back on with an aftermarket sheet of body work from Australia. The Rear body floor had some rust spots as well, and anything significant got cut out and replaced with regular sheet metal since the spots weren’t big enough for me to justify paying for a new floor board to cut replacement sheets out of. All of this is documented in my early “build thread” that I will link to. Outside of bodywork, the axle tubes had rust when I first bought it, and I pulled both front and rear axles out to bust rust, and repaint with POR15 product when I first purchased the truck. Now, there’s pretty much just little surface splotches of surface rust on the underside of the body. Additionally, the infamous windshield rust is beginning to show signs around the windshield as well.
Wheels are x4 Fifteen52 wrapped in 255/85r16 Toyo M55 tall and skinny winter rated commercial tires. I bought them from a Les Schwab in Ogden, UT at the end of 2022. They look pretty boring, but they’re the best tires I’ve ever used for a snowy/icy climate. The spare is also a Fifteen52 wheel wrapped in 255/85r16, but it’s a Toyo M/T tire, and the wheel is black since Fifteen52 discontinued the color of wheel on my truck. The spare has been protected by an Escape Gear rear wheel cover with pocket. The pocket stores extra oil, windshield wiper fluid, and trash bags.
Some maintenance history (basically my full baseline when I bought the truck in 2019-2020 at 134,000km):
-New OEM Radiator and OEM hoses, flushed coolant and replaced with Toyota Red
-Replaced emergency brake cable assembly
-Rear differential got rebuilt by San Diego Gear & Axle
-Rear Driveshaft got new U-Joints and checked for balance
-New front brake pads and rotors from Cruiser Outfitters
-New rear brake pads, rotors, drum brake hardware, e-brake hardware, dust seals, and brake cylinders
-Transmission and Transfer case oil drained and filled with Redline MT90 GL4
-Front knuckles fully rebuilt with kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Filled with 75W-90, and Molybdenum grease in the knuckle itself. Front drive flange was replaced with new “Golden Aisin” manual hub locker at this time. All bearings were replaced with Koyo bearings, studs were replaced as well.
-Rear axle was also rebuilt when performing full rear brake rebuild, new Koyo bearings. Also removed from truck and repainted. Note - I was in a pinch to go on trip and the rear differential didn’t get the final black POR15 top coat, and it’s still a grey color from the POR15 rust preventative coat. I figured I would eventually just get down there and clean it up and apply spray-on top coat but I haven’t.
-New door hinge and door checks for rear right door
-Rear leaf spring bushings replaced with OEM black ones from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Taillight replaced with aftermarket ones from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Rear left u-bolt plate replaced since a shock bolt broke off inside of the original one.
-New battery from Costco.
-Every November the underside gets sprayed with Fluid Film
Recent Maintenance in 2022-2023:
-Had an issue in winter of 2021 of the rear drum brake e-brake cable “overtightening” so I again replaced shoes and drum from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Replaced serpentine belts with OEM ones from Cruiser Outfitters
-New Air Filter
-New Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder.
-Replaced shocks and steering stabilizer with ARB OME shocks and new hardware for shock bolts.
*Oil changes have been done at 8000km intervals*
*Next one due at 180,000km*
-Originally I use to do them all with Mobil1 full synthetic with 90915-20004 or 90915-YZZB5 since the 15600-41010’s became harder to find. At the end of 2020, I came across Redline Cruiser’s article on 1FZ filters and as of 2021 I have moved on to using Mobil1’s M1-301A and using Pennzoil’s synthetic blend with a Rislone zinc additive I add after doing some further research about the 1FZ engine.
Maintenance to Come other gripes:
-Probably tie rod ends. Nothing wrong with the steering currently and I grease via zerk, but it’s just something I haven’t touched yet.
-Windshield has a crack in it. I have the HS-7 form to order it via Toyota. It does have the typical rust “slots” beginning at corners of windshield that should be addressed after removing windshield but before putting in a new one, so I haven’t replaced the windshield yet.
-The rear differential locker works great, but the wire that detects whether or not it is engaged or not was chafed and severed when I purchased it. When I rebuilt the locker I put in a new OEM indicator sensor, and got a wiring harness from a 4Runner e-locker that just needs the harness spliced into the severed indicator wire for it to indicate properly. Until then, the locker works perfectly fine, but the “red dot” on the dash just continuously flashes as if it’s trying to engage even though it already is.
-The hazard button on the steering column was broken when I got it and it is currently just a piece of plastic you have to pull.
-The plastic button to remove they key from the column is partially broken. I just stick my finger in the cavity and press the button to remove the key. I have the replacement for this section of the steering column.
Modification History:
-New rear sliding windows from Joe’s classic cruisers. The original were the solid one piece of glass - which I still have.
-Custom Exhaust from Ed Hanson’s Muffler Service in San Diego CA since there was an exhaust leak somewhere down the line. The guy’s a wizard and put in a quiet high flow muffler and resonator that tucks up nicely. Also made the 1FZ-F breath way better.
-ARB front bumper with 9000lb Ramsey winch with a synthetic line. I bought it from my friend (branwillith on here) and accidentally shorted out a solenoid in it though when I was playing with it. Ramsey does offer rebuild kits, but I haven’t gotten around to fixing it.
-New right side rear door from an HZJ78 with new window and hardware. Since I have a single tank model, I wanted to move the spare to the door and see about installing a Long Range Automotive tank to extend the range + I think the Troopy looks better with a spare tire on.
-Rear door spare tire carrier from Cruiser Outfitters
-Reverse camera and double din Pioneer head unit with Apple Carplay and a small amp behind it with 2 speakers on driver and passenger door. Finished with C2DFJ45’s interior map pocket and speaker trim set.
-1 cupholder from Buildin70’s
-L-Track’s mounted in the rear to tie equipment down.
Others:
-I still have original rear door and rear windows.
-I had the entire truck tinted at 20% just so my stuff wasn't so visible from the outside and to block some sun, but afterwards I replaced the rear windows, and the rear right door, so the left side door and the front 2 doors have 20% tint. Just haven't gotten around to putting ceramics on all around to replace the existing 20%
-The roof rack is factory, it's tall, but it's kind of nice because it doesn't mount to the gutters causing excessive gutter stress. The 2 metal things on the rear left pillar are also factory "ladders" to the roof rack.
-The dark smudges on the rocker panels is just dirty Fluid Film.
Between the lower mileage and some of the desired features and then some of the shortcomings like the need for a new windshield and no AC, I'd like to ask for $28,000.
Model: FZJ75LV-MRU
VIN: FZJ75-0020839
Engine: 1FZ-F
Color: White (045)
Trim: LA10 (grey)
Trans: H150F (5-speed)
Axle: K084 (9.5” rear, 4.11, locking differentials front and rear)
Miles: 174,390km (108,360mi)
Fuel Tank: 90l single tank (24 gal)
Hello IH8MUD.
I’m selling my LHD 1994 Troopy that I had imported by a friend and bought in 2019 from an auction from the Turkish government, where they probably bought it from Toyota Gibraltar Stockholdings. Time’s have changed and I’m in need of a 4 door Land Cruiser to support starting a family (that will also fit in my new house’s lower garage), and as much as I want to keep it, I’m now listing it for sale.
It spent a tougher life in Turkey, and since my ownership has enjoyed a more relaxed life as a garaged family tourer that I have done my best within my means to continue being mechanically sound. It had 130,300km on it, and it now currently has 174,390km on it. Most of the mileage was from our holiday trips my wife and I took it from CA to OR to UT every year. I would probably say a good 10% of the mileage though was spent on dirt track where I would occasionally take the truck camping. I just recently over Thanksgiving drove from North Carolina to Rhode Island in it (about 1400mi) with no issues.
1FZ-F carbureted engine (originally rated at 188hp, 268ftlb@2800rpm). Originally when I bought the truck I was a bit hesitant about how much I would enjoy it because it’s not the more common and desired 1HZ engine. But, after owning it for 4 years I’ve grown to really enjoy the power, low end torque, and quiet smoothness of the engine. The only real negative I can think of is that it will use up more fuel than most other engines offered for a Troopy. Generally on a single tank I can get 310mi(500km) out of a tank driving at 71mph(115km) about 15mpg - but as soon as you hit about 77mph(125km) the range drops to about 248mi(400km) about 12.5mpg when using about 20gal of fuel per stop.
H150 manual transmission. Heavy duty transmission that's geared beautifully low. The 1FZ could definitely do better with a taller 5th gear ratio, but the good news is that it will go up any grade in 5th gear.
Factory heat, no AC. Unfortunately the truck did not come with factory AC, but it does have a great heater. When I lived in CA and UT, the air was super dry and the weather was very mild that not having AC was almost never an issue. The only time in San Diego I wanted it was one summer in August, and when I was driving from Lake Tahoe to Utah and there was a big fire there in 2021. When I was living in GA and now in NC, not having AC definitely sucked from July to early September. I bought solar screens for all windows from CMS 4x4 (including windshield and front windows for camping) to help reflect sunlight which helps a good amount. I haven’t yet, but if I were to keep this I would definitely do a ceramic tint on all windows. Joe's Classic Cruiser's occasionally has aftermarket AC units for sale that theoretically shouldn't be too hard to retrofit, but I'm just so busy now that it's kind of out of the question for me to do.
Straight chassis with little to no rust. The Turkish government rhino-lined the frame and the wheel wells, but underneath the rhino lining, the frame is solid. There’s dust and dirt on it from use, but the frame is solid. To be super transparent, I did get rear ended in the truck once, but the car slid underneath the Troopy and the only damage was bending the rear steps to get into the back of the Troopy.
Body wise - maybe a 6/10. It’s a truck that looks great from 10ft away, but once you’re within 2-3 feet you can see a good handful of dings and different hues of white. The exact history of the Troopy prior to my ownership is unknown, but I think the front half of it got resprayed at one point in time. The hood has a slight dent in one of the creases that goes from the driver side to the front of the hood. Where the fuel door is there’s a long scrape. Where the rear bumper is, there is “chafing” from the plastic rear bumper surrounds. The infamous Troopy windshield surround rust is starting to become apparent. I’ll post more detailed photos later for every spot I see. The good news is, nothing is so far gone from saving, and there are no “rust holes”.
The interior is pretty spartan. This truck is like a “workmate” trim with vinyl floors, manual windows, almost no buttons on the dash, there’s not much to go wrong. I did spray the interior with SecondSkin’s Dampifier Pro dampening mats and spray it with their Spectrum product to reduce the amount of noise bouncing around in the truck when it’s empty. On top of the interior SecondSkin, there’s MonsterLiner dyed in a generic white. I have also bolted in L-Track to tie things down in the massive trunk of the Troopy. The driver and passenger seats have been replaced by Smart Car seats on top of a Planted seat bracket (why? the gas tank is right below the driver and passenger, and the smart car seats I found have thin bases to go on top of the planted seat bracket so that the seats weren’t too high). I unfortunately sold the original seats and seat brackets, I do regret it a bit since an upholstery shop probably could have saved them but the current seats are at least x5 more comfortable than the original ones. If I were to keep this I would probably just bite the bullet and go with Scheel-Mann seats as many use Troopy’s for long distance touring.
Rust. This truck has some rust as mentioned above with the body, but not a lot. The biggest problem spot of rust that this truck had was the passenger side foot well. I guess some salt and water got in between the butyl and body panel many many years ago, and over time the floor board rusted from the top down. When I first purchased this truck my friend and I cut it out and welded a new floor board back on with an aftermarket sheet of body work from Australia. The Rear body floor had some rust spots as well, and anything significant got cut out and replaced with regular sheet metal since the spots weren’t big enough for me to justify paying for a new floor board to cut replacement sheets out of. All of this is documented in my early “build thread” that I will link to. Outside of bodywork, the axle tubes had rust when I first bought it, and I pulled both front and rear axles out to bust rust, and repaint with POR15 product when I first purchased the truck. Now, there’s pretty much just little surface splotches of surface rust on the underside of the body. Additionally, the infamous windshield rust is beginning to show signs around the windshield as well.
Wheels are x4 Fifteen52 wrapped in 255/85r16 Toyo M55 tall and skinny winter rated commercial tires. I bought them from a Les Schwab in Ogden, UT at the end of 2022. They look pretty boring, but they’re the best tires I’ve ever used for a snowy/icy climate. The spare is also a Fifteen52 wheel wrapped in 255/85r16, but it’s a Toyo M/T tire, and the wheel is black since Fifteen52 discontinued the color of wheel on my truck. The spare has been protected by an Escape Gear rear wheel cover with pocket. The pocket stores extra oil, windshield wiper fluid, and trash bags.
Some maintenance history (basically my full baseline when I bought the truck in 2019-2020 at 134,000km):
-New OEM Radiator and OEM hoses, flushed coolant and replaced with Toyota Red
-Replaced emergency brake cable assembly
-Rear differential got rebuilt by San Diego Gear & Axle
-Rear Driveshaft got new U-Joints and checked for balance
-New front brake pads and rotors from Cruiser Outfitters
-New rear brake pads, rotors, drum brake hardware, e-brake hardware, dust seals, and brake cylinders
-Transmission and Transfer case oil drained and filled with Redline MT90 GL4
-Front knuckles fully rebuilt with kit from Cruiser Outfitters. Filled with 75W-90, and Molybdenum grease in the knuckle itself. Front drive flange was replaced with new “Golden Aisin” manual hub locker at this time. All bearings were replaced with Koyo bearings, studs were replaced as well.
-Rear axle was also rebuilt when performing full rear brake rebuild, new Koyo bearings. Also removed from truck and repainted. Note - I was in a pinch to go on trip and the rear differential didn’t get the final black POR15 top coat, and it’s still a grey color from the POR15 rust preventative coat. I figured I would eventually just get down there and clean it up and apply spray-on top coat but I haven’t.
-New door hinge and door checks for rear right door
-Rear leaf spring bushings replaced with OEM black ones from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Taillight replaced with aftermarket ones from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Rear left u-bolt plate replaced since a shock bolt broke off inside of the original one.
-New battery from Costco.
-Every November the underside gets sprayed with Fluid Film
Recent Maintenance in 2022-2023:
-Had an issue in winter of 2021 of the rear drum brake e-brake cable “overtightening” so I again replaced shoes and drum from Cruiser Outfitters.
-Replaced serpentine belts with OEM ones from Cruiser Outfitters
-New Air Filter
-New Clutch Slave and Master Cylinder.
-Replaced shocks and steering stabilizer with ARB OME shocks and new hardware for shock bolts.
*Oil changes have been done at 8000km intervals*
*Next one due at 180,000km*
-Originally I use to do them all with Mobil1 full synthetic with 90915-20004 or 90915-YZZB5 since the 15600-41010’s became harder to find. At the end of 2020, I came across Redline Cruiser’s article on 1FZ filters and as of 2021 I have moved on to using Mobil1’s M1-301A and using Pennzoil’s synthetic blend with a Rislone zinc additive I add after doing some further research about the 1FZ engine.
Maintenance to Come other gripes:
-Probably tie rod ends. Nothing wrong with the steering currently and I grease via zerk, but it’s just something I haven’t touched yet.
-Windshield has a crack in it. I have the HS-7 form to order it via Toyota. It does have the typical rust “slots” beginning at corners of windshield that should be addressed after removing windshield but before putting in a new one, so I haven’t replaced the windshield yet.
-The rear differential locker works great, but the wire that detects whether or not it is engaged or not was chafed and severed when I purchased it. When I rebuilt the locker I put in a new OEM indicator sensor, and got a wiring harness from a 4Runner e-locker that just needs the harness spliced into the severed indicator wire for it to indicate properly. Until then, the locker works perfectly fine, but the “red dot” on the dash just continuously flashes as if it’s trying to engage even though it already is.
-The hazard button on the steering column was broken when I got it and it is currently just a piece of plastic you have to pull.
-The plastic button to remove they key from the column is partially broken. I just stick my finger in the cavity and press the button to remove the key. I have the replacement for this section of the steering column.
Modification History:
-New rear sliding windows from Joe’s classic cruisers. The original were the solid one piece of glass - which I still have.
-Custom Exhaust from Ed Hanson’s Muffler Service in San Diego CA since there was an exhaust leak somewhere down the line. The guy’s a wizard and put in a quiet high flow muffler and resonator that tucks up nicely. Also made the 1FZ-F breath way better.
-ARB front bumper with 9000lb Ramsey winch with a synthetic line. I bought it from my friend (branwillith on here) and accidentally shorted out a solenoid in it though when I was playing with it. Ramsey does offer rebuild kits, but I haven’t gotten around to fixing it.
-New right side rear door from an HZJ78 with new window and hardware. Since I have a single tank model, I wanted to move the spare to the door and see about installing a Long Range Automotive tank to extend the range + I think the Troopy looks better with a spare tire on.
-Rear door spare tire carrier from Cruiser Outfitters
-Reverse camera and double din Pioneer head unit with Apple Carplay and a small amp behind it with 2 speakers on driver and passenger door. Finished with C2DFJ45’s interior map pocket and speaker trim set.
-1 cupholder from Buildin70’s
-L-Track’s mounted in the rear to tie equipment down.
Others:
-I still have original rear door and rear windows.
-I had the entire truck tinted at 20% just so my stuff wasn't so visible from the outside and to block some sun, but afterwards I replaced the rear windows, and the rear right door, so the left side door and the front 2 doors have 20% tint. Just haven't gotten around to putting ceramics on all around to replace the existing 20%
-The roof rack is factory, it's tall, but it's kind of nice because it doesn't mount to the gutters causing excessive gutter stress. The 2 metal things on the rear left pillar are also factory "ladders" to the roof rack.
-The dark smudges on the rocker panels is just dirty Fluid Film.
Between the lower mileage and some of the desired features and then some of the shortcomings like the need for a new windshield and no AC, I'd like to ask for $28,000.
Last edited:
