Ok, I have had it. You have dragged down another thread with your BS. Any further posts by you to tbhis thread will be deleted. Call it censorship, but this is a private entity. Your distruction of good technical discussions is more damaging than cutting it off. The other option is to ban your ass and you are real close to me asking for that
To summarize these little test results I did. The electric fan (Spal racing fans) flowed the least air, followed by the ringed fan. The stock fan flowed the most air. The stock fan at the blade tips flowed zero air while the ringed fan flowed negative air away from the engine. (post 24 in linked thread) I never had a V6 fan to test. The electric fans took a constant 25 amps to run and were very loud. I put about 20000k miles on them and they did work though.
Wow - - I am in awe - - NICE "little test"! Well done!
I just had a thought - do you still have the test jig? If so, can the curious of us chip in to buy you a V6 fan to run through it? (Yes, I realize it was 4 years ago and it's a long shot.)
I would love to see a graph of those results. To bad you didn't have some way of measuring temperature drop thru a core. That would have been the cats meow. But I do have to say....that was a lot of work and great job on the test.
Wow - - I am in awe - - NICE "little test"! Well done!
I just had a thought - do you still have the test jig? If so, can the curious of us chip in to buy you a V6 fan to run through it? (Yes, I realize it was 4 years ago and it's a long shot.)
I probably have some of the parts “somewhere”, but I needed the trailer so a couple of weeks after testing I tore everything apart. I should say that I did do further testing after the thread with a radiator in front of the setup and I was satisfied with my original conclusions. I did get the infrared tachometer mentioned in the thread and varied the rpm’s with the variac. Although the amounts of air moved changed the ratio between fan types stayed about the same iirc.
I would love to see a graph of those results. To bad you didn't have some way of measuring temperature drop thru a core. That would have been the cats meow. But I do have to say....that was a lot of work and great job on the test.
I made result notes as I was testing but would not know now where to start looking for them now.
One thing I did notice with the electric fans. I had one 16” and one 9” fan in a custom shroud. When I tested them it the 16” was actually pulling some air from the 9” fan opening instead of through the radiator. It was sort of fighting the 9” fan. Every once in a while the 9” fans fuse would blow which confirmed this. The point is I think it would be better to just go with one fan, or perhaps two equal size fans as opposed to what I did. If a fan is offset to reproduce the stock fan position it needs to have a pancake motor for clearance.
Who would have thought cooling was so complicated. I guess I should have finished my degree in Mechanical Engineering and I would know. Quit just before my Thermo-Dynamics class. I'm sure that would have helped.
But with all of the options out there I should be able to come up with something.
Trans oil cooling (noticed I don't have an external cooler)
Fan on the Engine oil cooler
Snorkle
Intercooler (not sure how much this would really do on a SC VS a turbo set up where they do a ton
(Complicated as we can tell but Fan options)
Aluminum Radiators
Hood Vents
So there should be no reason for overheating with all of these options out there.
Very good advice along with tuning the temperature in the clutch to approx 95 to 100 (mine was much higher in stock setup at 115 IIRC).
Also in the hope it helps, to address the transmission temperature I have an added tranny cooler which is run in front of the stock paperclip setup (for Power Steering Pump). I think that it really helps with heat buildup in the tranny adding to heat buildup in the engine. This shot is sort of strange but it is behind the bumper looking to the front and you can see the cooler sitting snugly in the ARB and with a thick rubber flap forcing air up into it and the radiator. Again, HTH.
Took a quick look under the hood tonight, and confirmed my S/C 96 has the ringed model.
So, if I can summarize the past posts, and the links from above for those of us trying to get things straight.
1. OEM 80 non-SC version will definitely have interference problems with a S/C truck, as seen with several members having them self-destruct and take out the radiator. Some have trimmed their blades, but this may be more risky vs. other options due to balance issues.
2. The TRD S/C kit supplied one (with ring) works, but is not the best for those who live in hotter climates. Some have rubbed the shroud, but none have exploded.
3. The 1994 3.0 V6 blade, 16361-65020 recommended by CDan and used by several members (with making a minor mod to the shroud) runs cooler, based on their experience and several tests. None of these have gone kaplooey. It runs for something in the $75 range from CDan (please update, as read in the earlier thread from 2005).
So, Option 3 is the optimal solution for those of us running the S/C setup, and looking for the safest and coolest setup. Looks like I will have another box coming from CDan shortly, and will have yet another weekend project.
BTW to everyone else. I am running the same fan blade dan is for two years with no issues. And my supercharged system maintains temp during normal city driving between 180 and 185F
Same since June. Its stayed cool through mountain passes and slow wheeling up in the mountains. Plus I've revved it fairly high with no rubbing sound or anything out of the ordinary.
Well I got the new radiator and the ringed fan in there. With all of the extra wiring the PO did it was a real pain. I had to leave the drivers side radiator mount in there as it would have taken another 2 hours plus to get to and get it out. But I ate up that time modifing the one that was in there to get it to fit. Nothing a little cut off wheel and a BFH couldn't handle. It was a real tight fit trying to get that fan and shroud in but with the whole top radiator support pulled back I was able to get it done. I think most of the bubbles are out and no overheating issues on a short 15 minute ride. (this was after running it in my garage for 15 minutes and running the heater on full blast). This is always a good way to tell if you have a bubble or not.
One step back and hopefully two more forward soon. I will update this thread come summer time on if and when I have any heating issues with this fan. I went with it becuase I could get it quick and our Club Presidante just happened to have one in his basement.
