Failed California Smog... Suggestions?
- Thread starter Spike Strip
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What is the process of getting inside the PRV? Do you pry it apart?
Your previous post inspired me to go check mine and I got a nice little pile out just by tapping it on a board, but I want to go deeper.
Your previous post inspired me to go check mine and I got a nice little pile out just by tapping it on a board, but I want to go deeper.
Gross Poluter sucks. Been there, done that. I'll wager dollars to donuts it is the carb.
I went through the entire smog system on my '85. Every component was either replaced, reworked, or confirmed operational. I even took the vehicle to one of the local FJ smog gurus. No help. I ended up selling it off to a Toyota fanatic. He rebuilt the carb and passed. (which really pissed me off because the guru also rebuilt the carb, supposedly)
I went through the entire smog system on my '85. Every component was either replaced, reworked, or confirmed operational. I even took the vehicle to one of the local FJ smog gurus. No help. I ended up selling it off to a Toyota fanatic. He rebuilt the carb and passed. (which really pissed me off because the guru also rebuilt the carb, supposedly)
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- Thread starter
- #24
Peter, I did not test the CAT for a temp difference, but I will. I went thru every part of that Air Injection except for the AI Manifold and nozzles. Guess that's next.
Fish, no need to pry the Pressure Relief Valve apart (I don't think it can even be done). The valve is in the end that has the single, bent tube. Just push a thin screwdriver in and push the valve down and spray some Sensor safe cleaner in there and use some compressed air to blow out the junk and chunks while holding the valve open. I did this with the most occluded valve I have and now it works. You should not be able to blow air through the end opposite the "T" side. Takes about 40 psi to open.
Carb is a Mark A rebuild with about 3K miles on it.
Fish, no need to pry the Pressure Relief Valve apart (I don't think it can even be done). The valve is in the end that has the single, bent tube. Just push a thin screwdriver in and push the valve down and spray some Sensor safe cleaner in there and use some compressed air to blow out the junk and chunks while holding the valve open. I did this with the most occluded valve I have and now it works. You should not be able to blow air through the end opposite the "T" side. Takes about 40 psi to open.
Carb is a Mark A rebuild with about 3K miles on it.
go back through the AI system to make sure you have it hooked up correctly. I would also confirm that the air pump is pumping air when it should. Below 35mph and not decelerating, air should only be injected into the exhaust ports. You should make sure that check valve is not frozen closed. There is an SST that is used to check the air pump output. something like it would be easy enough to make (a pressure gauge with a restriction orifice) but the FSM doesn't give an acceptable pressure range (just that the needle should be in the green).
You are about 13:1 you are still too rich. AI system and cat are not the problem. You need to lean that thing out.
- Thread starter
- #27
I will have to go thru the system and re-check (4th time) the hoses and check valves.
As far as the fuel/air ratio goes, I thought at speed that's a function of jet size, plus the AI input... Idle mix has nothing to do with it, yes ?
As far as the fuel/air ratio goes, I thought at speed that's a function of jet size, plus the AI input... Idle mix has nothing to do with it, yes ?
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Dude this whole thing totally sucks. Sorry to hear that you are going through this, you dirty dirty gross polluter you! Best of luck getting it to pass!
That's a nice calculator, but I think the calculation assumes that emission systems are working properly. If I increase the residual O2 to 3%, I can get the calculation to read in the green, implying that the A/F ratio is correct. If the AI system is not working and not enough O2 is available that may skew this calculation.
I would make sure the AI system is in fact working properly first. I suspect this because the results changes AFTER ONLY working on the AI system. Especially with the first set of test number, the emissions values were not so high that you would expect to see no residual O2 with a properly working AI system.
When the bar is in the middle colors the cat can work. So a working smog pump would help by putting in more O2 so the cat has something to burn off the HC and combine with CO. That would work.
But I think if the engine is running better and you are burning all the fuel you will get better fuel mileage and power as well as less emissions.
The way it was explained to me once was that the purpose of emissions components was to take care of the bad emissions of a poorly running unmaintained vehicle.
But I think if the engine is running better and you are burning all the fuel you will get better fuel mileage and power as well as less emissions.
The way it was explained to me once was that the purpose of emissions components was to take care of the bad emissions of a poorly running unmaintained vehicle.
Did a little more research. It does help to have some un burnt fuel (HC) with the O2 to fire the cat. Now I'm just not sure how much. I hate seeing high HC #'s because that is money heading out the tail pipe.
The learning never stops.
The learning never stops.
Hi Spike
What ever happened with your CA smog adventure? How'd you end up passing.
I have a similar issue -failed the AZ test with spectaularly high numbers. They don't report NOX so I can't get the residual O2.
But I think my Air pump system is fubared as it just pumps back to the air cleaner no matter whjat the engine speed does. Will be checking the Cat temp in and out tomorrow.
I appreciate your input on this forum -a great help.
Thanks
What ever happened with your CA smog adventure? How'd you end up passing.
I have a similar issue -failed the AZ test with spectaularly high numbers. They don't report NOX so I can't get the residual O2.
But I think my Air pump system is fubared as it just pumps back to the air cleaner no matter whjat the engine speed does. Will be checking the Cat temp in and out tomorrow.
I appreciate your input on this forum -a great help.
Thanks
Sounds like you could start with a carb rebuild.
- Thread starter
- #35
After the fourth failure I threw in the towel and took it to a local Cruiser Specialty shop (K&H Auto in Canoga Park) and Richard (Guru) worked some magic and it passed - Albeit it ran like s*** when I got it back and I just parked it and have not yet gotten to readjusting everything to the way it was before... 
Other projects - No time...
fwiw, to my displeasure, they did not fix the problem I took it in for, namely why I was getting 0% O2, they just leaned it way out and retarded the timing and who knows what else, and it passed, interestingly enough, by the skin of my thread-bare seat covers, still with 0% O2.
All it did was buy me two more years to procrastinate until I have to try and figure it out again
Whoever wrote that song: " I Love California" should be shot.
Other projects - No time... fwiw, to my displeasure, they did not fix the problem I took it in for, namely why I was getting 0% O2, they just leaned it way out and retarded the timing and who knows what else, and it passed, interestingly enough, by the skin of my thread-bare seat covers, still with 0% O2.
All it did was buy me two more years to procrastinate until I have to try and figure it out again
Whoever wrote that song: " I Love California" should be shot.
My local carb shop re-jetted my 2F's carb so that it would pass. Was barely drivable, but it passed.
- Thread starter
- #37
Richard said he didn't re-jet mine (I asked), but as said, I have yet to get into it... but I imagine he would have put the old jets back in, after, if he had.
I pulled the engine right after smogging and gave the old jet to the new owner. Having never been inside of one of these carb's I've no idea how involved a process changing the main jet is. Place the did the carb work is Pacific Carburation on Ventura Rd. in Ventura if that helps any.
- Thread starter
- #39
Changing jets on the stock carb is super easy - don't even have to remove the carb. Just remove the two plugs on either side of the sight glass and you have access. 10 min job. I might try and find some smaller jets to use next time, if I knew what sizes I was looking for...