Build F-Bomb Buildup

[pjohnson]

I think this is the one Jim is talking about. Call first, I've heard they are not making all the products on their website.

VSS Reluctor Ring Kit For Toyota FJ60 V8

Why You Might Need One. The Toyota FJ60 VSS reluctor ring kit provides the proper 40-tooth signal to engines/transmission using a GM reluctor ring and a GM Vehicle speed sensor. More on the Kit. This kit differs from our kit for the FJ-40 as it is intended for the FJ-60 (split case) for vehicles...

jagsthatrun.com

I may be interested in any power steering components from the 2F and the smog pump mounting bracket.

 

[newmexicokid]

My 2F was from an FJ60 so it may not be the parts you’re looking for but I can check.

 

[Downey]

1. Ok, give me first dibs on the tranny and transfer floor shifters (complete).
2. AA sells the smaller front u-joint you will need for your split case*, see their #716369 @ $202.00.
3. Stealth Conversions sells the 40 pulse VSS you will need for the split case, see their #FJ60-001 @ $270.00.
* AA machined the O.D. of this unit down to 3.5" diameter. They could have taken it down to 3.250", you could !!!! Also note, even with the smaller u-joint you may have to trim the oil pan downward lip, and could have to trim into the aluminum case slightly- - -absolutely normal. It doesn't matter if the u-joint is very close to the tranny though because they never move closer to each other, so very minimum clearance is actually needed.

 

[newmexicokid]

A little progress today. Started on the steering. Tried to get the old tie rod disassembled. One side came off the other was no bueno. I applied a liberal amount to penetrating lube and I'll try again tomorrow with some heat. Next thing is get the transmission/t-case bolted to the motor. Check. After that we used the forklift and mocked it up on the chassis. The drivetrain is roughly 64" long.

 

[newmexicokid]

Keep in mind this is a rough mockup. Right away I see I will need some different headers or exhaust manifolds. Might also need to relocate the rear frame crossmember. Not sure if it has enough oil pan clearance. The motor needs to come down a couple of inches and hopefully that will help the motor be a little more level. I have the rear output lined up (using my good eye) with the rear diff so I think its about where it will go. Looks like the rear drive shaft will need to be in the neighborhood of 19". Questions for the group:
1 - Anyone who has done an LS conversion how low do you recommend me going with these motor mounts. You can see its up on 2x4 blocks so it will come down atleast that far. How much farther down from the top of the frame?
2 - Anyone know what angle I should be looking for on that motor? I'm not sure how much it will change when I move down the mounts but the rear is close to where it will stay. I just know the gangster rearward lean is probably too much.
3 - Any recommendations on some headers?

 

[newmexicokid]

After consulting with Mitch at Swaptime I decided to use a radiator fan from a '16-'19 V8 Camaro. I will need to modify the shroud a bit to make it work but the real beauty of this thing is how thin it is and also that it will plug directly into my GenV harness. Its a brushless variable speed fan and it should be just plug and play. I think it might need a bit more room than I'm giving it right now but not much. Not sure what other applications this fan could serve but it seems like its going to work great. Here is a link to his video about the various fan options he likes to use.

 

[newmexicokid]

Progress people! Got a few parts this week. Removed the vacuum pump on the side of my motor and plugged the two oil galleys. After that I went to install the power steering pump bracket. One of the oil galley plugs stuck out too much so I counter sunk it into the bracket.

 

[newmexicokid]

Next step was to install the headers. I got them from Speed Engineering. Really nice fabrication for the price. V-band clamp, all tig welded. So now the exhaust is within the frame rail on the driver’s side but it’s still on the frame on the passenger. How low should this engine go? It needs to go back an inch and the transfer case needs to come up a few inches but I’m not sure how much lower the motor mounts should go?

 

[newmexicokid]

More pics of the headers.

 

[mtweller]

Any progress. Just about to get started on a LQ9 swap into my '78 FJ40 - replacing the 2FE I finally just got right

Sub'd

 

[newmexicokid]

So work has been busy which means work on the Bomb has been a little slow. I put the body on the frame to help line up the engine and check clearances before I burn in the motor mounts. First the glory shots of the stance with the body on. On a side note these are the type of pictures that I love. Seeing the stance gets me pumped up about how this thing will look. I love how square the profile of these tires are. They could be a little larger but I really like how the whole tire and wheel package turned out.

 

[newmexicokid]

Here are some pics of the header clearance. You can also see a little better how the PS pump clearance will be. In general I moved the motor back about an inch. Down about an inch (there is a 1x that the mount is resting on compared to the 2x4 that was on there before). I also jacked up the transmission to where I think it should be and centered it.

 

[newmexicokid]

A few more pictures of the exhaust clearance and the firewall clearance.

 

[newmexicokid]

Here's a few pictures of what the belly clearance will look like once the crossmember has been fabbed up. This also gives you an idea of the clearance under the body.

 

[newmexicokid]

A few more pics of the angle and height of the motor in the engine bay. Also the clearance around the oil pan and in front of the motor where the radiator and fan go.

 

[newmexicokid]

So now that you have all had a chance to study these pictures I have a few questions for you.
1 - I have seen folks say the engine should have a 3-5* lean to it. How is the best way to measure this on my motor? Using the eyeball test does this motor look like it has enough lean?

2 - How much clearance should there be between the differential and the oil pan? There are different oil pans available if I need more clearance. I could probably pick up another 1.5-2".

So the next steps are to take the body off again to burn in the motor mounts. My brother and I will also fab up the transmission crossmember and the exhaust system. I also have the radiator so I need to figure out a fan shroud. I also am about ready to do some plumbing for the PS system as well as the brake lines on the chassis. While the body is off I will be applying Raptor Liner on it in preparation for assembly.

 

[newmexicokid]

I've been slow with progress on the build with life happening. Had a truck break down and required a new engine. Luckily it was under warranty. So the Cummins 6.7 dropped a valve and tore everything to bits. The valve and piston looked like a chewed up piece of gum. Then it sent metal downstream and shredded the turbo and then flooded the exhaust aftertreatment system. About $30k worth of stuff that was replaced under warranty. Too bad the warranty won't help you deal with mad customers.

So I have been wrestling with what to do for a fan shroud. I found that sweet brushless cooling fan to plug into my ECU but couldn't make the factory shroud work. Some Google work turned up a shroud setup Jeep guys use when they do Hemi and LS swaps. I was able to modify it tor work with the Champion Radiator I got. Here it is all cut up. More pics to come once I get it all painted and put together. Looks cool so far.

 

[65swb45]

Got a link on that shroud?

 

[newmexicokid]

 

[newmexicokid]

Been a busy spring, summer, and fall. Here’s the latest pics of progress. Got the underside and inside of the tub Raptorlined. I like how it turned out.