Extreme Outback's Ultimate Puncture Repair Kit

[NLXTACY]

I still think you should have more than one spare. Could you borrow one from a friend?

That's not the issue. Space is.

I have the IPOR so I have the one. The spare tire carrier is gone to make room for the aux. tank that will eventually make its way in. Inside is out of the question which leaves the roof and I'd really don't want a tire up there. Could strap it to the hood

 

[Wile E Coyote]

That extreme outback beadbuster is getting copied in my garage the next time I have a free afternoon. Kewl.

I used to bust beads on 52" Michelin military tires with 4" wide sections of angle iron and a 10 lb sledge. No fun, but it did work. The coolest was when the pneumatic bead breaker was working, that thing was sweet, and ran right off the truck's air system. (Talking about Uncle Sam's heavy equipment, if it's not obvious)

Back OT, I'd feel relatively comfy deep in nowhere with your kit pictured. I 2nd the innertube idea for bad sidewall gashes. If you do ever find yourself in such a pickle, put something firm but semi-flexible covering the inside of the tire where it's gashed. This will support the gash so that the inflated inner tube doesn't protrude through, or even get punctured by any exposed steel belts.

 

[solidfrontaxle]

. . . put something firm but semi-flexible covering the inside of the tire where it's gashed. This will support the gash so that the inflated inner tube doesn't protrude through, or even get punctured by any exposed steel belts.

Like a sidewall patch from his kit?

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Like a sidewall patch from his kit?

Nope.
A fist-sized chunk of missing sidewall would not accept one of those patches. I've used an aluminum can split in half and then flattened into a sheet. Slather the inside perimeter of the hole with cement, or even duct tape to hold the 'patch' in place while assembling the tire with the tube inside.

 

[NLXTACY]

Nope.
A fist-sized chunk of missing sidewall would not accept one of those patches. I've used an aluminum can split in half and then flattened into a sheet. Slather the inside perimeter of the hole with cement, or even duct tape to hold the 'patch' in place while assembling the tire with the tube inside.

NOW THAT is some solid back woods wrenching advice. Love it. And if you make that bead buster and you happen to make two...

 

[solidfrontaxle]

Nope.
A fist-sized chunk of missing sidewall would not accept one of those patches. I've used an aluminum can split in half and then flattened into a sheet. Slather the inside perimeter of the hole with cement, or even duct tape to hold the 'patch' in place while assembling the tire with the tube inside.

THAT is hardcore!

 

[Bogo]

or even get punctured by any exposed steel belts.

If you end up with exposed steel belts, the tread is ****ed, but just cut em back to the rubber surface. Try a big area patch and drive real slow.

They make sidewall boots for tires. You could take one of them along.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Well, I'll say this; It worked for me.
I didn't have to carry half a truck full of single application spare items that overwhelmed my cargo space and my wallet. I made something everyday (alum can) work for a specific use (sidewall support/innertube protector) that got the truck back underway. That's the way that particular cat got skinned that day.
I could carry a sidewall boot, but I bet it wouldn't also double as a rad hose patch like an alum can would, eh?

 

[NLXTACY]

Yeah most of these suggestions are going into the kit. Right now the bag is really really small. And I do still have "some" room in it to add a few items. The can idea is really smart for a trail repair.

 

[Bogo]

Well, I'll say this; It worked for me.
I didn't have to carry half a truck full of single application spare items that overwhelmed my cargo space and my wallet. I made something everyday (alum can) work for a specific use (sidewall support/innertube protector) that got the truck back underway. That's the way that particular cat got skinned that day.
I could carry a sidewall boot, but I bet it wouldn't also double as a rad hose patch like an alum can would, eh?

Hose fix: Regular tire patch and a couple band clamps.

 

[tcmault]

So, I got new tires. This provided an opportunity to test both kits. On the old tires, I decided to drill some holes and plug them. After using both the Extreme Outback and Safety Seal kits, I'm not sure I can claim a winner based on the actual plugs. Both seem to plug the hole and would never come out on their own. As for the tools handles, reamers, and insertion tools, I'm going to lean towards Safety Seal. Although the EO handles are solid metal, the SS handles feel better in my hand. The SS Reamer is more substantial, but at the same time is much bigger. Having both is nice. The real difference is in the insertion needle. The SS is thinner, plus there is a retention T on the insertion needle that is a nice feature. It may not be needed, but it is nice to use the retention T for peace of mind knowing the plug will not be pulled back through. Both plugs, work with both needles and all the EO tools fit in the SS handles.

So which is better, I feel it will be personal preference. Neither is lacking in quality.

If you want the most complete kit, EO wins hands down. The addition of all valves, stems, patches..etc make it a much more complete kit. However, I still feel it is lacking as a complete kit. Both are missing a Valve Stem Puller. To really finish it off, you need the ability to stitch a sidewall. Some tarred twine and sail needle works great for this and can also be used to help lock synthetic rope splices. You could use the insertion needle to push the twine through holes on both sides of the side wall tear as well. A hand drill could be used to make the holes on both sides of the tear, or the reamer could be used to poke the holes. Next you need a way to get the tire off the bead. Breaking the bead can be done with a Hi-Lift, but Tyre Levers are need to get the bead off.

Now the very last recourse would be to use a tube. You would probably have to ruin your rim as the valve stems locations would not line up. To make this work, you'd have to pull a bead, insert the tube in the tire to see where the valve would need to be. Remove tube. Drill new hole. Insert tube. Get the bead back on the rim and inflate. I cannot imagine ever doing this, but it would be better than being stranded.

So the ultimate kit would be:

Tyre Plyers and Levers
Extreme Outback Kit supplemented with the Reamer and Needle from Safety Seal
Tarred Twine or even wire
Tubes
Valve Stem Puller

 

[doug720]

I would add a can of tire cement to the kit. Those included tubes of glue are very small, and have a tendency to dry out.

As to the side wall patch material, I carry a section of big truck rim liner for this purpose. It is thick, made from a good rubber and has a good shape. You can stop by a tuck tire shop and they will likely have an old torn liner they will give you. To use, clean the inner tire with the best thing you have available, install the kit patch, apply glue to the tire and liner, apply liner and install tube.

This is the best side wall patch you can likely make on the road - or off the road...

The truck tire shop will probably have a tube also.

For breaking the bead, I have used a hi-lift jack. Place the base next to the bead and use the weight of the vehicle to break the bead. I made an adapter that has a pin to mount my hi-lift the my ARB front bumper, so it can not slip off. Just another idea.

Have a great trip.

HIJACK AHEAD - Are the 60 Tuffy organizers ready yet?

 

[NLXTACY]

@doug720 some have purchased for it but none have reported back. I think I need to make a special trip over 4WheelParts and check. But I think they only have Smitty now.

 

[cruiserpilot]

l'm not sure where in Canada you're going, so where are you going? Most of any small town will have repair facilities.
I would recommend the tire rivets from Gembler. The post above that used tire rim liner is really smart, I've seen that
old blue plastic 'crazy carpet' used the same. I'm going to the Yukon in Sept., its why I've chosen the Toyo MT's. Heavy
but good sidewall protection.
I'm really interested in the EO Australian Tyre Pliers. They are really something. That would allow for field repairs inside the tire.

 

[tcmault]

Looks like the Typerpliers company puts together a nice kit.

http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/New/KIT100.html

Or if you don't want the irons or pliers.

http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/New/Puncturekits.html

 

[Pin_Head]

You are going to need about 5 times the number of tire plugs and glue tubes along with some zip ties if you want to have a decent shot at plugging a side wall cut out on the trail. The good news is that they are cheap.

 

[FJ60Seth]

To break the bead: install spare, lay flat tire on ground, pull valve stem, deflate, carefully drive over edge of it. To set bead, nothing is more fun than using ether.

 

[MANUCHAO]

I have seen that vid where ether is used, but never seen any body use it in real life... It kind of makes me nervous just thinking of going that route...If I was ever in that position...

 

[doug720]

I have done the either bomb many times on equipment tires. Popping a bead is easy to do, and getting to seat is not so easy. A quick shot of either - not too much, and flick a match. Bead pops on and fill her up. The pop does startle people though...

I don't recommend this technique, but have used many times. There is not much fuel to start with, and the burn is short and limited as the oxygen in the tire is limited.

 

[lovetoski]

You can also buy a tube to install inside a tire. Not a bad backup to have in case you need it.