dannyvp
SILVER Star
External water temperature gauge (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dannyvp
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Builds - The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times.
Your list resembles mine....every night is another check box. Keep it up!
forum.ih8mud.com
Super easy. It’s worked for me for quite a while. If I had to do it over, I would put the sensor in the upper radiator hose.
additional temperature gauge sensor location
because my stock temp gauge/sending unit is there for ornamental reasons only, i am putting an additional, more accurate temp gauge in. is there another port on the head that i can put the new senor in? i was thinking of using one of the senor port on the lower thermostat housing . any suggestions
forum.ih8mud.com
Get a good gauge. Autometer or better.
I found the usual radiator adapters are too long for the short curve of the FJ60 hose and push it into the PS Reservoir so I found this one:
Inline Radiator Hose Temperature Switch Adapter 3/8" NPT 1 1/2" OD 38mm & clamps | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Inline Radiator Hose Temperature Switch Adapter 3/8" NPT 1 1/2" OD 38mm & clamps at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
dannyvp
SILVER Star
If you're desmogged you can put the sensor in the lower thermostat housing for a nice clean install.
hi @OSS ,
can u please elaborate on why , using the 2nd thermo-sensor port in the ctr of the cylinder head is less desirable ?
and going with the aftermarket add on port or as @Spike Strip suggested maybe one of the de-smogged BVSV old ports ?
i currently have my YAZAKI 52 mm Engine bay gauge set ran there ,( old thermo port on my 83 2F because i thought monitoring the same area as the stock sender was a good idea
thanks
matt
I have an Autometer with electric sending unit mounted in one of the ports on the head. Been there for 200+k miles without any issues. I can watch the temp rise as the engine warms and tell when the t-stat is about to open. Water temp hits about 200 then drops. Good to have a second gauge to monitor engine temps because it can alert you to a false positive when the stock temp and fuel gauges spike.
My YAZAKI brand set up came with a Longer early type sender in the kit , i had to source
a early OEM TOYOTA Tall Sensor / Sender Union to make it work ..... like 62-12/74 one
that was before i dreamed up the idea of bringing 90404-16127 back for the dead ...
this is a very recent addition to my collection , but may help solve @dannyvp issue
or present him with additional options ?
here is 90404-16127-R :
SOLID BRASS TOYOTA Cylinder Head Coolant Temperature Sensor UNION Nut 90404-16127 , Fits 1956-12/74 F Engines FJ40 , FJ55 , FJ45, - VintageTEqParts.com
SOLID Brass Alloy TOYOTA F Engine Cylinder Head Coolant Temperature Sender UNION - 90404-16127 - Fits ALL F Engines ...
vintageteqparts.com
side by side with the oem toyota 2F short sender , and a OEM original i cloned her
from . Chome Plated solid Brass .......
@dannyvp , if you would like to try out one of these , i will be happy to mail you one out as a professional sample , but id like to get @OSS 's take too on this topic, i know
he always has valued input
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I'll justify my previous bold claim of "best" with a condition-
Installing a 2nd electrical Temp sensor correctly in a late model 2F head isn't a trivial task. Installing a mechanical temperature sensor in the head can't be done to work reliably because of the large size of the mechanical sense bulb.
Since Autometer itself professes that a mechanical temperature gauge is more accurate and reliable than an electric sender & gauge (theirs included) the "natural" choice when choosing another temp gauge for the 2F is to get a mechanical gauge - since the electric one that Toyota provided has proven to be vague or unreliable.
So "best" is open to interpretation, but my recommendation of the "best" includes the ease of installation, the reliability of the instrument, its accuracy and the ability of keeping the stock sender & gauge functional.
Installing a 2nd electrical Temp sensor correctly in a late model 2F head isn't a trivial task. Installing a mechanical temperature sensor in the head can't be done to work reliably because of the large size of the mechanical sense bulb.
Since Autometer itself professes that a mechanical temperature gauge is more accurate and reliable than an electric sender & gauge (theirs included) the "natural" choice when choosing another temp gauge for the 2F is to get a mechanical gauge - since the electric one that Toyota provided has proven to be vague or unreliable.
So "best" is open to interpretation, but my recommendation of the "best" includes the ease of installation, the reliability of the instrument, its accuracy and the ability of keeping the stock sender & gauge functional.
does anyone have an opinion on glow shift guages? I don't need all the different light options but they have there own radiator hose adapters and was going yo order all from one spot. Seems easier than getting this part here that part there and hoping everything works .. Thanks
Easiest install ever.
Again, I'll repeat trying to save someone from the extra expense and hassle:
If you use a MECHANICAL gauge, the sender is going to be 3/8" NPT. That's the standard size for Autometer, Glowshift, etc ...
ALL the short upper rad hose adapters are 1/8" NPT (or BSP) because they're meant for an ELECTRICAL sender. You can drill and tap yourself, if you have the correct drill and tap bits.
The only SHORT upper Rad Hose adapter I could find, in 38mm, with a 3/8" NPT is from a guy on ebay who custom makes them (linked above).
ALL the other 38mm (1.5 inch) 3/8" NPT adapters I could find are too long for the short, quick bend of the upper hose in the 60s. I used one of those for a while but cutting as much of the hose as I could still pushed it into the lip of the power steering reservoir and that caused a wear spot on the upper hose at the contact point, and had I let it go, would have ruptured the hose.
There are adapters for the heater hose, if you want to put the sender in the hose that feeds the oil cooler...
Whatever you install will be miles better than the stock gauge.
ADD: The Koso gauge co above that Alex shows, has a few different style elec thermometers that are fairly cheap and come as complete kits and very easy and quick to install. I have one on one of my 40s ... Only thing addt'l you'll need is your choice of hose adapter.
kosonorthamerica.com
If you use a MECHANICAL gauge, the sender is going to be 3/8" NPT. That's the standard size for Autometer, Glowshift, etc ...
ALL the short upper rad hose adapters are 1/8" NPT (or BSP) because they're meant for an ELECTRICAL sender. You can drill and tap yourself, if you have the correct drill and tap bits.
The only SHORT upper Rad Hose adapter I could find, in 38mm, with a 3/8" NPT is from a guy on ebay who custom makes them (linked above).
ALL the other 38mm (1.5 inch) 3/8" NPT adapters I could find are too long for the short, quick bend of the upper hose in the 60s. I used one of those for a while but cutting as much of the hose as I could still pushed it into the lip of the power steering reservoir and that caused a wear spot on the upper hose at the contact point, and had I let it go, would have ruptured the hose.
There are adapters for the heater hose, if you want to put the sender in the hose that feeds the oil cooler...
Whatever you install will be miles better than the stock gauge.
ADD: The Koso gauge co above that Alex shows, has a few different style elec thermometers that are fairly cheap and come as complete kits and very easy and quick to install. I have one on one of my 40s ... Only thing addt'l you'll need is your choice of hose adapter.
You searched for thermometer - KOSO North America
kosonorthamerica.com
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Thank you spike strip. I'm all straightened out. I'm going to go Koso with the adapter you linked on eBay
ALF is a TEq Jedi .........
Builds - The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times.
Your list resembles mine....every night is another check box. Keep it up!
Super easy. It’s worked for me for quite a while. If I had to do it over, I would put the sensor in the upper radiator hose.
Alex, where did you pull power from? Is it ignition based? I’m to the point of needing one of these as well. I like your discrete digital display. Also like where you tied into the system on the firewall side. I don’t really want this thing hanging out of the fat top hose in front.
That won't work. If u go with the Koso, you need the 1/8 BSP hole in the adptr. Buy adapter from Koso or amzn
I did a switched on source atc add a fuse. No issues at all.
