Explain what the AC Amplifier does ? (1 Viewer)

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Does my tach have to be functional for my ac clutch to kick in? or does it feed off the distro cap where the tach hooks up to? or is both of these irrelevant.

is your truck stock with stock A/c setup?
 
Piggybacking off this thread:

My A/C has started acting differently after I had the head rebuilt. Prior to the rebuild, my engine would jump up about 200 RPM when the A/C was engaged. It seemed to me that this was normal, and I never had any issues with the system.

Now, when I engage the A/C, it places a load on the engine, and drops RPM by about 200 ~ 250 and idles roughly. What should I look at first?

Thanks,

-Hudson
 
nothing to do with your cylinder head...have you looked at the carb and what controls your idle up process?
 
So, where is the AC amplifier located?
 
Don't go 100% by me but is the amplifier part of the AC idler controller? @CaptClose do you know? Or @Output Shaft?
 
It is under the dash near left knee of passenger seat.
hth
 
It is under the dash near left knee of passenger seat.
hth
I looked there and found what looks like a radio button, Looks like the prior owner "jerry rigged it". Turned it either wan and nothing happened.
 
Piggybacking off this thread:

My A/C has started acting differently after I had the head rebuilt. Prior to the rebuild, my engine would jump up about 200 RPM when the A/C was engaged. It seemed to me that this was normal, and I never had any issues with the system.

Now, when I engage the A/C, it places a load on the engine, and drops RPM by about 200 ~ 250 and idles roughly. What should I look at first?

Thanks,

-Hudson

Hudson, There is a screw on the carb that sets the AC idle up. The screw will be near the front driver's side of the carb below the ac actuator (circled in diagram). Turn the screw clockwise to raise your idle speed with the ac on. Counter clockwise to lower it. The knob under the dash is not your issue. Carb settings probably got messed with during disassembly / reassembly for the head rebuild.

1987-fj60-a_c-vacuum-pot-jpg.536720
 
Do you have the 2F engine?
I hope this helps...
From post #4
By KevinR
.beginquote.
The chassis manual has a nice section on the AC system, even diagrams the circuit for you. the "magic blue knob" does exactly as mentioned, adjusts when the amp will let the clutch engage in regards to RPMs.
Clockwise=lower RPM
CCW=higher rpm required to run the AC.
The amp gets a signal from the coil, same wire as the tach, that it reads for RPM.
Thermister and pressure switch functions are also controlled in the AMP, it all come down to telling the compressor when to run and when to shut off.
Just remember that to bypass the entire amp just jump the yellow wire to the black with white wire and the clutch will engage when the AC button is pushed, disengage when the button is out.
.endquote.

I looked there and found what looks like a radio button, Looks like the prior owner "jerry rigged it". Turned it either wan and nothing happened.
 
I just realized that I'm asking in the wrong forum... Oops I have a 92 FJ80 3fe!
 
I just realized that I'm asking in the wrong forum... Oops I have a 92 FJ80 3fe!
However, that setup looks similar except someone replaced that part with something different.
1485522213062-1613045943.jpg
 
However, that setup looks similar except someone replaced that part with something different.View attachment 1390094
I noticed that last night from your picture on facebook. Hence the reason you might want to listen to Joey R on facebook as well, he knows 80's best but it could be your onto something with that area too.
Felicity
 
Has anyone replaced the A/C amplifier?

Is it available new or rebuilt OEM Toyota?

I have 2 problems:

1. My A/C idle up VSV stops working after the A/C has been on for a minute or 2. I tested the valve itself and it was working fine. When I first turn on the A/C, it always applies vacuum and the idle increases to 900-1000 RPM. After a minute or 2, it kicks off. I think this is related to the A/C amplifier tripping the signal. Adjusting the blue knob doesn't seem to help. Grant here in TX said you could direct wire the VSV from the compressor to correct this problem.

2. Cruising down the highway with A/C running, it will be good and cold and the air blowing well. All of a sudden, the fan will quit blowing or act like it's "frozen up" with only a small amount of air coming out the vents and there will be a lot of really cold condensation down on the ducts. Is this the blower going out, another A/C amplifier problem, or something else?
I know this was a long while ago but I am having the same issue with the VSV idle drops after a minute. Its a brand new VSV. is at perfect High idle when there. Then after the minute no vacuum no power and the AC clutch is on. idle drops below 500RPM
 

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