Excessive play at front differential (2 Viewers)

[nissanh]

Yes, I didn't remove anything yet except the rear cover to inspeat. OK, I will leave the pinion seal intact. But will replace the out-put shaft seals (L and R). Do you mean FIPG around the rear cover? Is this is it? How about the tube on the driver side to the diff housing seal? No leaks there, so leave it as it is?

The pinion end of the housing as well as the output shaft ends are bit wet with a film of oil. Is this a sign of failing oil seal- specially at the pinion? What you see is the bottom side of the differential

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

I see oily surface from the fill plug area flowing back to pinion area. It "needed" to be cleaned before disassemble, then inspected for leaks to be sure. But it's most likely from fill plug not having gasket (washer) being replaced last gear lube change.

I found this 1x4x5mm piece of metal in rear diff yesterday and two 35K miles ago.

 

[shibubba]

So I can confirm the "clunk" in my front end is worn drive flanges. I can hold my CV axle and move the rotor about 1/8".

 

[nissanh]

My plan is to get the CV's done first and see how it goes. Since replacing the flange is super easy job and can be even done at a parking lot, I left the fange repair for a later time.

 

[2001LC]

Personally I think it's a good idea to both at same time. They'll seat nicely.

 

[nissanh]

OK. All the parts for the cruiser at my local toyota dealer is special order. Going to pick up oil seals etc, today and will order fanges at the same time. CV's coming on Monday. Thanks

 

[abuck99]

View attachment 1320419

I found this 1x4x5mm piece of metal in rear diff yesterday and two 35K miles ago.
View attachment 1320421

Did you figure out what is that f.o.d. is from inside the diff? Doesn't appear that it belongs to anything gear related- was that stuck to a magnetic plug?

 

[2001LC]

Some times front drive shafts (aka CV) come without Dust Cover (inboard) or Dust Seal (outboard). You will want them. It's the only place I can think of where we have a double seal (oil & dust), which is at each end.

Outboard Dust Seal: My Toyota Dealer didn't have a part # for this. I found # online and he was able to then order this Seal.

 

[2001LC]

Do you have the FSM? If not these may help:

Setting breakaway Preload (at Starting) is key:

If snap ring or cone washer(s) have any damage replace also:

Snap ring to axle hub flange gap is also very import. Must be less than 0.20mm. This is just one way I pull it tight:

 

[2001LC]

Make sure to order the correct size of snap ring to get gap very tight. Just one more way to pull axle out tight:

 

[2001LC]

Did you figure out what is that f.o.d. is from inside the diff? Doesn't appear that it belongs to anything gear related- was that stuck to a magnetic plug?

No I didn't. Yes it was stuck to magnet. When I saw two pieces 35K miles (actually 41K miles) ago I was very concerned. Posted it up here in mud, consensus was not to worry it's normal. No issues to date or unusual sounds.

 

[nissanh]

Thank you once again with great information about the cruiser!

I get the followings from the dealer. Hope the part numbders are correct. I plan to get the axle oil seals done but will keep the pinion oil seal (bottom in the pic) just in case. Mine is seeping a bit but it is not dripping.

Can't wait to get this done. I also got two new T-fittings for the coolant heater lines.

 

[2001LC]

You're welcome.

BTW; looking at you differential picture I can't say what's leaking for sure. It does look like fill plug washer and front drive shaft/differential seal PS is leaking. Oil will flow back (to pinion area) in most cases. If I was sure my pinion seal was leaking, I'd replace if the differential was already pulled out. But they don't usually leak unless unusual long term vibration from propeller shafts, spiders joint etc or excess pressure do to plugged vent tube. This is why I always says clean first then drive until leak re-appears, to pinpoint. Vent tube was point out to me as I did overlook this myself, don't make my mistake.

If pinion has never been removed it will be square in it's seat. Squarely seating seal(s) is key to no leaks. Toyota uses really good rubber, and we don't often see leaks from seals due to age.

If you've button up differential and do find the pinion seal leaking, you can try a seal modifier. ATP AT-205 re-seal is just that.

 

[nissanh]

I found an easy way to drive the CV axle to the front diff. Just two bangs and in less than 10 seconds I drive a CV shaft into the diff.
Make sure to jack up the LCA to have the CV straight
Picture worth a 1000 words.... Here it goes.
Also shows how I got the diff back on!

 

[tman100z]

Sorry to revive but I have the same problem . So did replacing the CV axles and flange solve the problem?? I know the PO had the CVs done on mine and were probably done incorrectly

 

[1HZJ105]

It would have been good for all if it was confirmed if a solution (or not) was found on this frustrating matter as so much time and dollars can be spent on replacing unnecessary parts.

I too have a similar problem with my manual 2000 1HZ105 with 33” tyres and constant 4WD purchased a month ago. It has a mighty huge thump when accelerating or decccelerating! So I removed the front drivershaft and all the thump stopped which meant the problem was isolated to the transfer or the front drivetrain. So now with the front drive shaft removed and the wheels on the ground, I measured that the front differential / driveshaft flange rotation to be 2.6 hours and so i initially assumed it would be due to backlash in the front differential. However, after removing the front diff, all the internal gears and bearings were nice and tight. However, the outer cv’s splines, the cv knuckle itself and the hub splines has a small amount of wear and movement but not enough for me to be confident they all needed to be replaced. So I’m not sure if the front diff rotation and the thump are actually related or not.

I gather many others would have had a similar problem and some have found a solution. Some others may have converted to a part time 4WD tansfer case spool and free-wheeling hubs but this is not really a “solution” the problem.

 

[GVegasG]

I also would like to know if CV and flunge combo fixed the issue as I have the same issue -excessive play in front propeller shaft which causing clunk/thud when accelerating or de accelerating.

 

[mynameis]

I also would like to know if CV and flunge combo fix the issue as I have the issue -excessive play in front propeller shaft which causing clunk/thud when accelerating or de accelerating.

Your videos show wxactly what mine does as well, so would be very glad to know if this is normal.

 

[GVegasG]

I don’t think it is normal as my other 04 does not have that much play and does not have have the thunk or clunk when accelerating.
I have not spent more time on it yet but I think it is tied to cv axles and flanges. Diff bushings definitely could have a role in the clunk but not in the rotational play.