- Thread starter
- #441
Sure, looks like I'm at about 26.5" front and rear. May not be precise though, since the tire bulges a bit and I kinda eyeballed it.
Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jcardona1
- Start date
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Sure, looks like I'm at about 26.5" front and rear. May not be precise though, since the tire bulges a bit and I kinda eyeballed it.
Cool, thanks! And you don't have any driveline vibrations or groans or anything right?
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...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #443
Yeah I get driveshaft vibrations when letting off the gas. I've gotten use to it. My goal is one day address the problem with a part time kit and kills two birds with one stone instead of spending money on useless DC shafts.
I'm not sure I am understnading what you mean by "part time" kit, do you mean going from full time 4 to part time? I thought there was a simple mod for that? and I thought the DC shafts were supposed to help with driveline vibe?
Jose, love the whole build! Looking great! On the monstaliner, did you apply it up to your sunroof opening? Or go down in between the the sunroof opening and rubber seal? I'm getting ready to do my whole cruiser and was wondering if this affected the seal as far as water problems?
- Thread starter
- #446
Yeah that's right, converting to part-time 4x4 where the truck only operates in RWD. Doing so means the front drivetrain isn't spinning during normal driving thereby getting rid of any potential vibrations. The other benefit is that nothing is spinning up front meaning you eliminate the wear and tear on the front end internals. Especially good for those running chromoly Birfields which have shorter wear life.
But it's not a simple mod, nor cheap. Slee's part-time kit is about $800 and involves opening up the transfer case. You then install the locking hubs. To keep the truck in RWD during normal driving you need to have a CDL switch.
So in my opinion, even though it's more expensive than a DC shaft it's a better solution. A DC shaft is just a band-aid to get rid of the vibrations, an expensive band-aid. The real solution is to disconnect the whole front drivetrain. Here in CA there's no reason to have a fulltime 4WD vehicle, we hardly even get rain!
Thanks! Yeah I did the sunroof just like the doors and door jambs, meaning only up to the opening. I didn't paint any further down into the opening. I wasn't too concerned with how it looked up there and like you said, wasn't sure if it would affect how it sealed.
Damn Jose, the 4Runner looks wicked with the new shoes! That front end is starting to grow on me. Awesome color combo too.
Any regrets on filling your fender holes with bondo? I have to fill mine now so I can put that black monstaliner on! Just waiting for Luke to build my bumpers, tie rods and finish up all the baselining and I’ll finely have something good to show... oh and get the leather redone when I get it from Shane.
- Thread starter
- #449
Thanks man! Here's a few more pics for the heck of it, it is a Toyota afterall
So far I've blacked out the emblems, blacked out the front silver chin, painted the fogs yellow, added side steps, and HIDs from TRS. Up next will be a small lift in the coming weeks as the tires are too big for stock height, that was just a test fit. 
None yet. Only time will tell how well it holds up. My concerns are it cracking after coming into contact with an object while wheeling, but hopefully the Monstaliner helps to strengthen it all. I don't know much about body work though, what other options are there aside from regular body filler to finish the welds?
Really only that or JB weld or similar products, or go whole hog and weld them shut (but then, how in the heck do we seal the backside from rust?). I’ll probably just go bondo or the jb weld stuff. My guess is that it will hold up well enough and if it goes, I could always sand, redo, sand and patch the liner...
- Thread starter
- #451
Oh wait hold on...mine ARE welded up. I had a Craigslist handyman come by and weld them all shut. I then did all the grinding and final smoothing before the paint. Did you mean simply using body filler to fill the holes without any metal behind them? I don't think that would work. Too big of an opening, that stuff would crack right away I would guess.
i believe alot of people are using aluminum backed tape from the HVAC industry but its in quite a few fender flare removal/monsterlining threads just fyi!
See, I knew I missed something. Thinking I’ll just go that route as well. Thanks!
understood, but I have seen Jose’s in person and it looks really good so was trying to clarify.
I used some formula 27 to fill them in and then skinned with bondo before lining, probably could have skipped the bondo altogether as that 2 part poxy isn't going anywhere.
Ok, cool. That makes sense, Thanks!!
great read....you have done some serious work and the pics are great inspiration
I may have missed it, but why did you choose the Runva winch? Never heard of those before.
I may have missed it, but why did you choose the Runva winch? Never heard of those before.
- Thread starter
- #458
Thanks! I can't remember where I first came across Runva, but after doing my research I decided to give it a try. They're popular in Canada and Europe and have seen nothing but good reviews. Here in the states you only here about Warn because they're good at marketing, not because they're better. I didn't feel like paying 3x the price for basically the same winch
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
I'm response to the pt kit. There is a recent thread on the 80 tech forum where you can get the pt kit for I believe 475 to your door, the same one Slee sells. Just a heads up. I already have Aisin hub so I just need the spool for the tcase. Love the 4runner man...
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I think I'm going with the Runva also - not sure if I want the 12k though, was thinking more around 10, but in reality this rig is meant to have 12+ because of it's weight. I had a Warn 8k on my FJC and it was great, but in the end, I only used it a few times, so I don't think it really paid for itself. There are a few other low cost brands out there like Badlands, Smittybilt, Rough Country, Superwinch, Ironman and Engo. It just takes a little research into comparison specs, and the reviews to see what you need or want. IMO it doesn't pay to spend a lot on a Warn unless you have the cash. I mean, they are good, but I would say they are better for longevity not for simple purpose. SO if you plan on using it all the time, then sure its' the way to go. FYI also, RUNVA has two sites, one is the Canadian one and one is a US site. The Canadian site seemed to have more to offer and I think that's where Jose got his. It's like $500+ - not bad at all for a 12k winch.
Hey! It's my 100th post! woot!
