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- #121
OK, It will all go into the truck in one solid piece then
Thanks for the advice
Build Euro 1HD-FT Turbo Diesel/H151F 5 Speed Manual LHD 96' USA Swap
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OK, It will all go into the truck in one solid piece then
Thanks for the advice
- Thread starter
- #122
Allegedly, the transmission (95' or 96') may be a bit smoother than the early versions. We'll see. If I have issues with it, I have a spare trans which I may try to convince Marlin to go though.
Any potential complaining won't be from ME per se, I'm still happy to drive my 84' Toyota 5 speed mini-truck any day of the week
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- #123
Quick question on transfer case ID from folks who know more than me. The case on the left (shiny one) is from a USA 1993 model truck. The one on the right is from the UK and I know nothing about it. Is it a "split case"? It's MUCH shorter than the USA one and I'm guessing it's missing the viscous coupling??
I want to convert the truck to part time with locking front hubs using the Marks kit from OZ. Which case is best??? I purchased the UK one for this project (to have a matching case) but I'm open to input.
I want to convert the truck to part time with locking front hubs using the Marks kit from OZ. Which case is best??? I purchased the UK one for this project (to have a matching case) but I'm open to input.
FWIW the Sequoia alternator virtually bolts on, just a little mod to the adjuster, you then have a comfortable 150 amps from a stock alternator as opposed to a modded 'upgrade', the wiring and oval plug are all the same, just make sure the charge cable is beefy enough.
regards
Dave
Just when I was settling down to see a proper conversion. Not going to get into the 4wd versus PT as I already know 4wd is better but, the weight of the diesel motor makes the car reluctant to change direction, 4wd helps corrects this, before you plonk down your coin, fit the rear propshaft, lock the CD and then go drive the car 'enthusiastically' around a few twisty roads/lanes, when you have had enough backing off the throttle as the nose gets in too deep, and hopefully before you punch a hole in the countryside release the CD and fit the front propshaft, now try again, BTDT 4WD rules. I know there are the for and against lobbies so try it first and form your own opinion but remember, you cannot overturn the laws of gravity.........period!
regards
Dave
in the garage to work on the car was so she could hurry up the job and get some house decorating done!
- Thread starter
- #127
Dave, you make some good points, I won't argue that. I WILL try what you suggested and see how it goes. This truck will be primarily for commuting to work with long road trips/camping trips thrown in. Diesel isn't cheap (at least in the USA) and the main reason for the part time swap would be the added economy + the lack of wear/tear on all the front end components. Owning one of these rigs with the gas engine was totally out of the question. 12MPG=HORRIBLE. The GM Vortec V8 in my FJ40 gets 15-16MPG pushing 37"s with 3.7 diff gears BUT, I can stomach that.
I guarantee this truck will go together initially as "stock" with the full time 4WD as I need to quit screwing around in the shop and actually get this driving down the road. Or so I've been told......
I like your tip on the Sequoia alternator, I'll look into that.
- Thread starter
- #128
OK, this is now 95% back together. Turbo, exhaust manifold, heat shields and the intake are all in. I cleaned up the manifold (a bunch) and painted it with high temp (1,300-2,000 degree Fahrenheit) paint. I just couldn't stand to bolt that rusty piece up as it was. Everything is properly torqued per Toyota spec.
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- Thread starter
- #129
P/N pic
The front end using stock components is good for 200,000 or more, so unsure what the PT will achieve, one of my Birfield's is the original and is approaching 240,000 miles, but fair to say try it yourself. Re consumption, Stock in good condition these diesel motors will drag your 80 around all day long at 25 (imperial) MPG with no effort. Take it easy and 27 is the norm, some hit 30+ driving like a nun.
My thread (link in sig) gives regular readings on my MPG.
regards
Dave
My thread (link in sig) gives regular readings on my MPG.
regards
Dave
Transfer cases:
1. LH side: HF2AV Full Time gear driven transfer case with viscous couple (notice the length of the rear extension housing to accommodate the VC).
RH: HF2A Full Time gear driven transfer case without the VC.
1. LH side: HF2AV Full Time gear driven transfer case with viscous couple (notice the length of the rear extension housing to accommodate the VC).
RH: HF2A Full Time gear driven transfer case without the VC.
- Thread starter
- #132
Beno, if you had to choose, which one would you run in your truck??
Have you done this yourself Dave? I have heard talk about this before but would love confirmation from someone who has done it before ordering a new alt. Pics?
That is a beautiful work of art
Yep link in my sig takes you to a long running thread here on MUD, from a bolt on point of view Sequoia for a diesel and IIRC Tacoma for the petrol versions? There is some input from someone who had done the conversion on his petrol in there somewhere. I have looked at some of the serious output alternators of which there are many but, there are just as many complaints about them. Toyota OE stuff is built for hundreds of thousands of trouble free motoring which was the deal breaker for me. I would also say shop around, it was cheaper for me to order the alternator from the states and ship to Spain than purchase here.
regards
Dave
I'm not sure if were you live is cold, but in Australia most people delete the intake heater in favour of performance 
it also reduces the load on the charge system after startup. I would also suggest replacing the bolt on the Alternator adjuster block with a Cap head bolt, the factory one for some reason has a thinner head, and is often damaged trying to tighten the bolts. A cap head gives a much better tool engagement. m8 x 1.25 x 40mm should do it 
Love the work you have done...!
I have been running for a few months in 2WD (not front shaft waiting for time to fix the front diff) and have seen zero change in fuel economy... something to consider!
it also reduces the load on the charge system after startup. I would also suggest replacing the bolt on the Alternator adjuster block with a Cap head bolt, the factory one for some reason has a thinner head, and is often damaged trying to tighten the bolts. A cap head gives a much better tool engagement. m8 x 1.25 x 40mm should do it Love the work you have done...!
I have been running for a few months in 2WD (not front shaft waiting for time to fix the front diff) and have seen zero change in fuel economy... something to consider!
- Thread starter
- #139
I'm not sure if were you live is cold, but in Australia most people delete the intake heater in favour of performance
Love the work you have done...!
I have been running for a few months in 2WD (not front shaft waiting for time to fix the front diff) and have seen zero change in fuel economy... something to consider!
I wondered about the restriction caused by the factory heater BUT, it does get fairly cold here. -15 Celsius is not uncommon and last year, I was out and about in -22 Celsius in a neighboring state. Anyway, cold enough that I'd be worried about the darn thing starting if it sat out all night without a block heater.
Taking it out during warmer months would've an option though, Do most folks just run a longer rubber hose or make an aluminum extension/adapter? How much of a difference does it make?