Engine Coolant Temperature 208F

[Porzingis213]

because the leak is going to occur a t the rear crossover pipe, or the back end, or under the intake.
for the end all be all coolant leak test it needs to be with the intake off, make sense?
the small ones you guys are talking about are there, not at the rad or the overflow tank.

Kind of following, I understand taking the intake off if you want to see it visually, but for the pressure test can't you tell if there is a leak just based off the pressure gauge losing psi

 

[2001LC]

View attachment 4110674
I know there is a procedure to checking the transmission fluid so not sure if I did it correctly. I drove the car on the highway for 20 minutes, parked on my flat driveway, and ran it though all the gears, then I let it sit for 5 minutes and checked the level. It is above the hot full line, what do you guys think?

Check A/T level, while engine idling in P or N..

 

[2001LC]

Coolant Pressure test is generally down on a warm engine. We pressurize to 15 PSI. Then watch to see if pressure holds.

Cylinder are check for coolant leaks at head gasket. Engine cold, at 15 to 18PSI, using bore scope.

External leak can be found by looking for the pink or red crust build up.

Bore scope is also very handy for looking under intake manifold.

Easy way to find radiator. Top it, and pressurize it.

 

[jerryb]

deleted

 

[Porzingis213]

yes you can tell if there is a leak with a test cap on the radiator and nothing removed at all.
Where is the leak is is the problem, what do you do if you're loosing pressure with no visible leaks?
Leak could be under your seat also and you wouldn't know it, or the rear ac unit.
Best possible outcome from a coolant pressure test is what you want. Don't rent the cap and pump and then not take the intake off, cause you will in the end.
I want o just say trust me bro, but I'm 55 years old and that sounds silly.

this is why I don't post very often. OO, ignored content I see. Complete sentences, you are an self proclaimed educated man. No educated man writes like you do.
I'm done.

I do appreciate you sharing your knowledge, I'm still learning as I go and want to understand everything fully. I do understand what you mean now with taking off the intake.

 

[Porzingis213]

Make sure:

• Fan clutch working as in it should.
• Thermostat is OEM, with jiggle valve at top/up.
• Reservoir and it's hose working as should. I've seen some clogged and many hose curled uppward.
• Good OEM rad cap.
• No air in system. Looking under rad cap, after 8 hr. cool down with vehicle cross level and front end higher than rear. Check, at coldest time in day/AM before sun warms the air.
• Engine properlly tuned.
• Monitor fuel trims. A lean fuel condition, increase cylinder head temp.
• Monitor AT ATF temp. Make sure good oil and ATF at proper levels.
• Verify ECT seen via tech stream. With IR gun on back side of water inlet cap (thermostat). Get gun within 3" or closer, proptect from air flow of fan. Expect to read a few degrees F lower at gun. It rare, but a water temp sensor reads wrong, but can happen. Also look ECT sensor wires for damage.

Notes:
Any unusal color in any part of coolant system. That may indicate a stop leak added. I often see a brown color when stop leak added.

Fan clutch is working.
OEM Thermostat was just replaced with jiggle at top.
Reservoir is working as it should.
Brand new OEM radiator cap.
No air, burped it a few times.
I believe engine is considered to be tuned, the spark plugs are not old, fresh engine air filter.
I do not have a fancy enough scanner to check AT temp. I rechecked the fluid while idling and it is correct.
I've attached a few photos from my live scanner & showing IR gun reading behind thermostat.

 

[Mike NXP]

Hmmm, I'd keep thinking about stuff like lack of air flow over the radiator ..You mentioned you cleaned it but can you get a better look in there? poke around with a flashlight , maybe remove the bottom splash shield and try to get a different angle if you haven't already.

Little leaks and stuff like that shouldn't necessarily make you run any hotter if fluid is topped off..... lack of efficient cooling at hotter temps is usually because poor air flow over radiator ( fan or clogged radiator) weak water pump, low fluid levels ...stuff like that....

Besides just keep an eye on your coolant levels, reservoir and radiator after cool down, and as long as they stay consistent then no worry about leaks

 

[2001LC]

A ~16f difference between Tech Stream ECT and IR gun readings, something wrong!

Was IR gun used engine running or off?
If off, how long after shut down?

Shooting with IR gun is tricky. With engine running, we get air flow effect from fan. Thus lowering (in most cases) reading.
If shot, after engine shut down. Temp increase for awhile. So trick is to take reading, as soon as engine shut down.
IR gun, should also be held within 3" inches.

I like shooting back side of thermostat on water inlet housing. Both engine running and then again after shut down. Engine running, perhaps use a piece of cardboard to block air flow.

It is possible, your ECT sensor reading is wrong. You've two sensors in the 2000. One is for gauge, then other for ECU.

____________________

Fuel trims.

I like monitoring FT, while driving on HWY at ~65 MPH. On flat ground, with no change in throttle position. I monitor ECT, MPH, RPM and FT long and short.

Long term fuel trims. Indicate what ECU is doing to correct. So a reading of say LTFT BK1 7%. Is a lean running condition in BK1. We like to see under 5%. At 5,000 ASL, we see 1-3%. SL (sea level) we may see 0 to 1%.

Many OBD in the markey, form $20 to $100. That connect to smart phone via BT. Most will log moment to moment PID (data) from Tech Stream. These logs, can be down loaded into a Excel. Then by looking at logs MPH & RPM. We can see when holding throttle steady on flat ground, I find most useful.

This screen shot, is before full warm-up and at higher speed than ideal. But you get the idea.