Is there an electric parking brake kit that works a 1984 HJ 47? I found one for 80 series but could not find one for the 40 series. BOOSTED & BUILT GARAGE - https://www.boostedbuiltgarage.com/
Electric parking brakes
- Thread starter rideglobally
- Start date
I'm not helpful at all. Looks like a motor, small gear reduction for the screw plunger on the caliper.
Makes me wonder how you release it with electrical failure. Or worse, does it release when there is a loss of input voltage? I doubt that, as a constant draw would murder a battery in short order.
I'm converting mine to newer style drums so I have a parking brake again. Makes me wonder if I could mount a linear actuator on the back axle instead of fabricobbling cables to make it happen? And, could I expect it to survive? Could it be driven by air instead?
Makes me wonder how you release it with electrical failure. Or worse, does it release when there is a loss of input voltage? I doubt that, as a constant draw would murder a battery in short order.
I'm converting mine to newer style drums so I have a parking brake again. Makes me wonder if I could mount a linear actuator on the back axle instead of fabricobbling cables to make it happen? And, could I expect it to survive? Could it be driven by air instead?
They make a kit like you describe. I've thought about adding one but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
one option. Speedway Power Remote-Mount Electric Emergency Brake Kit - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Power-Remote-Mount-Electric-Emergency-Brake-Kit,58549.html?sku=9101124&utm_matchtype={match_type}&msclkid=a98683f7766e1da80f48e09fbe10d00c&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI%20-%20Shopping%20(CSE)%20(Bing)&utm_term=1100309962282&utm_content=Speedway%20%20(Feb28_2020)
Not very good reviews on that one.
It's probably smarter for me to deal with the cables. I was just booting ideas around.
To the OP, does your vehicle have the parking brake on the back of the transfer case, or in the drums?
- Thread starter
- #5
Thx but this is different set up than the on I posted. I am ok with pulling the brake lever. Thx
- Thread starter
- #6
It is on the back of the transfer case. My rear axel is a 80 series, it is very difficult to make the hand brake to work properly, it seems that it is a problem that everyone is having with the 80 series. I might go back to the OEM set up of my HJ47 series, unless i can find a set up similar to the link i posted.thx
That was just an example I know a few other manufacture them.
It was just an option. I have a stock lever and a parking brake on the rear of my Orion and it doesn't hold very well. I also have explorer disc brakes with the internal parking brake on my rear ProRock 60 I haven't hooked up yet. I like the idea of an electric actuator for those and not having two parking brake levers inside,
Parking brake on the t-case work very good if adjusted correctly
I'd like to one day swap to a split-case and the don't have a parking brake on the case. With so many newer options I'm interested in seeing a solution. I'm fine with cable operated. I've considered switching to a caliper that has an E-brake on the rear disc if I could find one that was similar to the Chevy Full sized calipers I'm running... or even mounting separate E-brake calipers on the rear discs like many newer cars have. The biggest challenge I'd have on the rear is that my discs are 1.25" thick. Unless I redo the entire brake setup on the rear axle the thick rotors may limit my options.
The current disc brakes work extremely well and I don't want to reinvent the wheel and start over. In reality I'd be best to just rebuild my parking brake drum and leave everything else alone... but a split case with 4:1 low range seems appealing. Leaving well enough alone generally isn't the way on a 40. If I didn't want to modify things and custom fabricate I'd probably just own a Nissan Leaf or something else sensible.
you can certainly add the OEM parking brake to the splitcase and hook the original 40 cable to it
I know that reproduction brackets are being designed or have been, but I'm struggling as the cost of prices for this hobby are soaring even faster than inflation. Unfortunately the days of finding a rusty 60 series with a five speed and a split case for $500 are long gone. My budget doesn't really allow for $6000 for a transmission and T-case upgrade that will make it somewhat quieter and stronger.
For now I'll likely just fix my drum E-Brake and keep running the recently (mileage wise) rebuilt, smooth shifting 4-Speed, one piece case, and spend time and money on the body. Soundproofing the floor will cost a lot less than putting in a split case. My goal is to enjoy it for what it is, and eventually finish the rest of the body. I'm not a great fan of bodywork so shinny paint has been way down the list (maybe one day). For now the goal has been to slow the rust and keep it safe.
POPO AGIE
SILVER Star
I ordered my split case with the parking brake.
The brake on the first transfer case worked well until the seal leaked and once I changed the seal and put a new kit in it held the rest of the 103K miles.
I am also moving the brake lever to the floor so I don't bang my knee on the under dash lever.
On my 40 I love the symplicity of my floor lever and t-case parking brake, short cable , trouble free since 2003
On my bj42 the cable stop working ,probably rust, i dont like the way it is set up on the rear axle, exposed for trail damage
On my bj42 the cable stop working ,probably rust, i dont like the way it is set up on the rear axle, exposed for trail damage
That speedway kit is just a linear actuator- basically a motor driving a screw thread. It stays put wherever it is when you remove the power. Reverse the wires and it goes the other way. They can be had pretty cheap on Amazon with different throw and speeds.
Hey mate,
Just to confirm are you running a 40 or 80 series rear axle?
I can potentially help out. I am putting a kit together for 40-60 and 80 series landcruisers that uses an OEM caliper with inbuilt electric handbrake. It allows you to run a rear disk WITHOUT the crappy drum handbrake and as the handbrake is part of the caliper there’s no dependency on the transfer case.
It also never goes out of adjustment, holds significantly better than any drum style brake and includes a controller/wiring loom.
All you would need to do is find somewhere for the switch, supply 12v and ground. The installation would take around 2-3 hours (depending how handy you are with the tools) and is cheaper than the kit you listed above.
I’ll try and provide some more details shortly.
Cheers
Just to confirm are you running a 40 or 80 series rear axle?
I can potentially help out. I am putting a kit together for 40-60 and 80 series landcruisers that uses an OEM caliper with inbuilt electric handbrake. It allows you to run a rear disk WITHOUT the crappy drum handbrake and as the handbrake is part of the caliper there’s no dependency on the transfer case.
It also never goes out of adjustment, holds significantly better than any drum style brake and includes a controller/wiring loom.
All you would need to do is find somewhere for the switch, supply 12v and ground. The installation would take around 2-3 hours (depending how handy you are with the tools) and is cheaper than the kit you listed above.
I’ll try and provide some more details shortly.
Cheers
I’m for info.
I’d like to know more… although I’m running a ‘77 45 axle that already has Chevy blazer 6 bolt disc rotors & full size callipers.
I’m thinking a second electric calliper on each rotor for e-brakes… perhaps even an option of individual control.
I’m thinking a second electric calliper on each rotor for e-brakes… perhaps even an option of individual control.
