Eibach pro-truck lift kit review?

[little_joe]

Nice! I have sag in front end of FJ I have heavy bumper and steel skids and heavy wench. I do not see on Eibach site where you can get different springs?

Can you order them assembled?

You can get them assembled from several different retailers. I got mine unassembled, went with new KYB top hats and did a no spring compressor install, which is pretty ingenious - it was actually easy and rewarding.

I believe Eibach has another system that is more adjustable - threaded coilovers up front, threaded spring base for the rear. That system has uprated springs. Maybe @Tanner H can help you sort it all out?

 

[HDrdglid]

You can get them assembled from several different retailers. I got mine unassembled, went with new KYB top hats and did a no spring compressor install, which is pretty ingenious - it was actually easy and rewarding.

I believe Eibach has another system that is more adjustable - threaded coilovers up front, threaded spring base for the rear. That system has uprated springs. Maybe @Tanner H can help you sort it all out?

Help me out with this? How do you do a no spring compressor install?

 

[little_joe]

Help me out with this? How do you do a no spring compressor install?

There's a some Youtube videos on "no spring compressor install", I watched 1 or 2 and read about it a bit. In short:

1. Get the front end on jackstands, the forward skid plate removed, swaybar endlinks removed from spindle (which you have to do anyway; 14mm nut and 6mm allen wrench), and remove the 2 19mm bolts that hold the spindle to the lower control arm (near the lower ball joint), support the hub at the wheel studs with a 2x4 or whatever you have.
2. Remove the 3 14mm nuts on the coil top hat; remove the 17mm (or 19mm) nut on the shock stem. Remove the lower shock mount bolt.
3. Pull the existing coil/strut, knock the old top hat out. Lever down the lower control arm for more clearance, if needed.
4. Make several match marks on all of the alignment adjustment tabs (make sure to get all of them). I made 3 match marks per tab, one w/ silver Sharpie and 2 with black Sharpie.
5. Loosen the 19mm alignment cam bolts. You'll know when they're loose enough - the lower control arm will literally swing down to a vertical position.
6. Install your new top hat + rubber isolator into the vehicle shock mount w/ the 14mm nuts.
7. Grab your new strut and coil, work the strut top post through the hole in the top hat. Make sure you have the lower washer installed before doing this! Spin the top nut on, do not tighten - you just want to hold it in place.
8. Guide the lower strut mount into position as you lever up the lower control arm. As soon as it's in the cradle, run the bolt through and hand-tighten the nut.
9. Use your factory bottle jack under the lower control arm, crank it up!
10. Remove the nut from the top of the strut, install the supplied bushing and washer, install the nut and tighten until the bushings begin to expand.
11. Reinstall the 2 19mm bolts for the lower control arm to spindle. Torque to 160 ft lbs, use threadlocker.
12. Reinstall swaybar endlinks, put your tires on, lower truck. At this point, I used a floor jack and lifted the front end to the limit of my jack, and dropped it - 3 times, to let things settle.
13. Torque your lower strut nut + bolt to 100 ft lbs.
14. Check your alignment tabs. 3 of mine barely moved, one moved about 1/4 of a revolution. I think I used a 1 1/16" socket to get the alignment cams back to the match marks. Then, torque these to 100 ft lbs.

I think that's it. Notice I didn't need to touch the lower ball joint or tie rod ends; and not using a spring compressor took the anxiety down several notches. After doing 1 side, the other side took maybe 30-45 minutes? (and that included removing my XREAS hydraulic stuff too).

 

[HDrdglid]

There's a some Youtube videos on "no spring compressor install", I watched 1 or 2 and read about it a bit. In short:

1. Get the front end on jackstands, the forward skid plate removed, swaybar endlinks removed from spindle (which you have to do anyway; 14mm nut and 6mm allen wrench), and remove the 2 19mm bolts that hold the spindle to the lower control arm (near the lower ball joint), support the hub at the wheel studs with a 2x4 or whatever you have.
2. Remove the 3 14mm nuts on the coil top hat; remove the 17mm (or 19mm) nut on the shock stem. Remove the lower shock mount bolt.
3. Pull the existing coil/strut, knock the old top hat out. Lever down the lower control arm for more clearance, if needed.
4. Make several match marks on all of the alignment adjustment tabs (make sure to get all of them). I made 3 match marks per tab, one w/ silver Sharpie and 2 with black Sharpie.
5. Loosen the 19mm alignment cam bolts. You'll know when they're loose enough - the lower control arm will literally swing down to a vertical position.
6. Install your new top hat + rubber isolator into the vehicle shock mount w/ the 14mm nuts.
7. Grab your new strut and coil, work the strut top post through the hole in the top hat. Make sure you have the lower washer installed before doing this! Spin the top nut on, do not tighten - you just want to hold it in place.
8. Guide the lower strut mount into position as you lever up the lower control arm. As soon as it's in the cradle, run the bolt through and hand-tighten the nut.
9. Use your factory bottle jack under the lower control arm, crank it up!
10. Remove the nut from the top of the strut, install the supplied bushing and washer, install the nut and tighten until the bushings begin to expand.
11. Reinstall the 2 19mm bolts for the lower control arm to spindle. Torque to 160 ft lbs, use threadlocker.
12. Reinstall swaybar endlinks, put your tires on, lower truck. At this point, I used a floor jack and lifted the front end to the limit of my jack, and dropped it - 3 times, to let things settle.
13. Torque your lower strut nut + bolt to 100 ft lbs.
14. Check your alignment tabs. 3 of mine barely moved, one moved about 1/4 of a revolution. I think I used a 1 1/16" socket to get the alignment cams back to the match marks. Then, torque these to 100 ft lbs.

I think that's it. Notice I didn't need to touch the lower ball joint or tie rod ends; and not using a spring compressor took the anxiety down several notches. After doing 1 side, the other side took maybe 30-45 minutes? (and that included removing my XREAS hydraulic stuff too).

Nice! I watch a couple videos and this looks like a good slick way to do it!

 

[LexusLehvi]

Just wanted to share my experience with Eibach here but with a disclaimer first that I had been in contact with Tanner about the kit prior and he was NOTHING but helpful. I don't think this had anything to do with him and I feel bad posting about it but I am new to the 4x4 world and getting fed up with delays and how certain companies (in addition to eibach) are dealing with there customers.

I reached out to Marcor ( Home ) who is the Canadian Retailer for Eibach in Canada in September. Got a quote and was told they are on backorder for at least a month (which was the case everywhere). Put in an order.

Followed up in late October and was told that rear spring perch's were on backorder (which Tanner also was kind enough to confirm) and that it would now be another month.

Now here's the part that pisses me off. Black Friday comes and goes, Cyber Monday comes and goes. Then on the TUESDAY I get an email from my contact at Marcor saying "Sorry - bad news - were now sold out and new ETA is end of February".

So not only am I now all of a sudden there is an additional 2 month delay and they've decided to tell me the day after all the other retailers cyber weekend sales ended AND everyone is also now sold out from black Friday madness. They offered 10% off for the inconvenience - not even the 15% off Eibach was offering anyway on Black Friday.

I decided to go with a Dobinson IMS kit through Treaty Oak Offroad and of course was ineligible for the 15% off I could have gotten a day earlier which in my case with exchange equals $344.00...

Again nothing against Tanner who has been nothing but helpful but I think this warranted letting people on here know.

 

[Tanner H]

dang! Sorry you went through that. Not sure how the wholesale side handles the accounts, Wondering if our factory here and Marcor's orders got their lines crossed or something.


But glad you were able to get something for the truck at a good deal.

However, since you went Dobs...you must now leave the Eibach island...good day sir.

 

[LexusLehvi]

dang! Sorry you went through that. Not sure how the wholesale side handles the accounts, Wondering if our factory here and Marcor's orders got their lines crossed or something.


But glad you were able to get something for the truck at a good deal.

However, since you went Dobs...you must now leave the Eibach island...good day sir.


View attachment 2520833

Yeah I'm not sure either I just know that it's a real kick in the nuts. In any case I appreciate your humour and as I said before you have been a Class Act and super helpful all throughout prior to this.

Now leaving the island...

 

[HDrdglid]

dang! Sorry you went through that. Not sure how the wholesale side handles the accounts, Wondering if our factory here and Marcor's orders got their lines crossed or something.


But glad you were able to get something for the truck at a good deal.

However, since you went Dobs...you must now leave the Eibach island...good day sir.


View attachment 2520833

Hey Tanner look at my post #50 the FJ I have a lot of steel up front bumper, heavy wench, steel skids would this Pro Truck lift work for me? I don't see that the FJ kit has heavy enough springs?

 

[Tanner H]

@HDrdglid Ah shoot sorry man...the site has been hit-or-miss on notifying me....

Yeah we dont have another option for heavier builds right now for the FJ's. I usually send people over to Toytec or similar brands for that. Our shocks have the valving to support the weight, but I would personally go with something a little higher rate to carry that weight up front.

 

[HDrdglid]

@HDrdglid Ah shoot sorry man...the site has been hit-or-miss on notifying me....

Yeah we dont have another option for heavier builds right now for the FJ's. I usually send people over to Toytec or similar brands for that. Our shocks have the valving to support the weight, but I would personally go with something a little higher rate to carry that weight up front.

OK Thanks

 

[bhendron]

LEXUS GX470 PRO TRUCK LIFT

Eibach engineers, manufactures, and sells the highest quality performance aftermarket suspension products in the world.

eibach.com

does anyone have any experience with this kit? feedbacks, opinion, suggestion, or reviews on these would be highly appreciated.

I just installed the kit over the last two days. Rear yesterday, front today. I opted to order new top hats for the the front struts and have a local off-road shop assemble them.

The instructions for the rear are pretty thorough and helpful. The front, not so much. In fact, as best I can tell, there are no instructions for the front. It's up to you and random youtube videos. This is my only, but I don't think insignificant, gripe.

One thing I did not see anywhere is how to remove the ride quality control module mounted on top of the front struts. You have to remove it and it's bracket to remove the strut. The module is held in by two 4mm allen bolts. My solution was to remove the bottom strut bolt, remove the three top nuts holding the strut in so you can lower it enough to give you clearance to remove the allen bolts. You'll have to do the inboard one blind. It's super fun. After you get those off, there is a 17mm nut on top holding the bracket in place.

 

[DanjenG60]

Lots of good info here to help out with the install. What tire size is everyone running with this kit?

 

[nijat12]

I got the Eibach kit and my car does not level. The front is about 1/4-3/8 inch lower than rear. Eibach said it could happen because the car is old and these aren't adjustable (they have preset height rivets and that's it). I would recommend getting another kit that you can adjust

 

[Tanner H]

@nijat12 Post up a photo lets check it out. If we are literally talking 1/4'' here thats roughly 7mm difference. We are also measuring on the wacky gx fender arches which arent dead even front to back.

Lets see what you ended up with.

 

[nijat12]

Here are the images from the center of the wheels to the stock fenders. This car has never been in an accident or any other mods. The lift kit was the first mod I did and I regret going cheap

 

[Tanner H]

Hmm honestly that looks pretty good in my opinion. Its going to look real good with some beefier tires on there.

 

[HDrdglid]

Hmm honestly that looks pretty good in my opinion. Its going to look real good with some beefier tires on there.

I agree throw some Kenda Klever RT on there and you will look good!

 

[little_joe]

Here are the images from the center of the wheels to the stock fenders. This car has never been in an accident or any other mods. The lift kit was the first mod I did and I regret going cheap

Getting it perfectly level while measuring at the fender flares will never measure out as "level." Measure all along the frame rails to ground, then adjust your eyeballs for the lines of the GX to understand why it doesn't "look" level: the fenderwells/flares are not even. If you set it level based on the flares, you'll have a nice rake if you measure ground-to-frame.

I had a $2k "tuned for the GX" suspension on my GX, and I can say without reservation this suspension rides much better than that $2k suspension.

 

[trd4x4]

I agree throw some Kenda Klever RT on there and you will look good!

Anybody running kenda 33’s on stock wheels with this lift? Searched other threads but only saw them on aftermarket wheels.

 

[burtoncr]

Anyone know if the Eibach rear springs are the same inner diameter as stock? I was planning to run firestone / airlift helper airbags like I do with my other GX on Toytec springs (same inner diameter as stock), but I saw a FB post that the normal firestone helper airbags don't fit inside of the Eibach springs. I recall it was a pain to get the bags into the Toytec springs, but the posts on FB made me worried the Eibach springs have a smaller diameter so the helper airbags wont fit at all. Any idea?