- Thread starter
- #181
DUN. No heat, no blood and no cussing. I certainly wouldn’t reuse these fasteners but they’re not damaged from the removal process either
Build Ed’s Un-Did FJ40
- Thread starter Rock40
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Thats a win right there, almost unheard of. I would have to use that cowl as it obviously loves you. Don't know why but the mismatched & frozen windshield frame bolts ( not even screws on mine) are the #1 thing that bugs me about my 40.
- Thread starter
- #183
Yeah, I’ve seen some crazy destructive stuff with people trying to remove those screws. I can’t remember who makes that air hammer adapter, it rarely leaves the Vidmar but man does it work
This cowl is actually sort of baffling. It’s been in a WA field for close to 30 years where it rains 10 months out of the year. Virtually no rust under the windshield hinges or the windshield gasket
It has the quintessential cowl hole for the ‘80s Smokey and the Bandit tribute radio but that’s about it. And the hole is anything but round. And it was orange, so you know this thing was fast in its day
Mercy. Welded out 2 of the cowl vent screws to access this
This is what is left of the upper dash pad screws. A squirrel had hollowed out the inside of the dash pad to create its own private toilet. Then it had the audacity to perish in the “pocket” where it slowly melted. So gross
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I want to use all the emoticons to respond to your post. Like, laugh, love, and gross.Yeah, I’ve seen some crazy destructive stuff with people trying to remove those screws. I can’t remember who makes that air hammer adapter, it rarely leaves the Vidmar but man does it work
This cowl is actually sort of baffling. It’s been in a WA field for close to 30 years where it rains 10 months out of the year. Virtually no rust under the windshield hinges or the windshield gasket
View attachment 4134661
It has the quintessential cowl hole for the ‘80s Smokey and the Bandit tribute radio but that’s about it. And the hole is anything but round. And it was orange, so you know this thing was fast in its day
View attachment 4134662
Mercy. Welded out 2 of the cowl vent screws to access this
View attachment 4134663
This is what is left of the upper dash pad screws. A squirrel had hollowed out the inside of the dash pad to create its own private toilet. Then it had the audacity to perish in the “pocket” where it slowly melted. So gross
View attachment 4134664
I had always wondered what that antenna hole was on mine. Smokey and the bandit tribute helps justify it a little. Maybe.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Surely life can’t be this easy, I figured we’d need a least a chant and flag down a snap on truck…
ETA that’s ^ supposed to be a link to the air hammer attachment to summit.
Here’s amazons
ETA that’s ^ supposed to be a link to the air hammer attachment to summit.
Here’s amazons
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- Thread starter
- #187
Yeah, that’s the similar tool. I think the one I have is USA built but that one will function exactly the same
- Thread starter
- #188
Well….it was partially covered by a fir tree. But stuff usually rusts here pretty darn good. At least this one got parked before everyone forgot how to drive in the occasional snow here and the State started pouring corrosive crap all over the roads the entire winter
Anything I care about (the 80 series and the 40) stays garaged and parked all winter now. Leaving for a southern state next year so that may be less of an issue
- Thread starter
- #189
@Ditcherman thx for throwing that link up there
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
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- Thread starter
- #191
We should have discussed a “banana rating” for a full cowl swap. I’ve done a lot of 40 mods but never this. Probably because I don’t care for body work.
Interesting to see how the rockers were attached to the cowl. Problematic because there are multiple sheet metal pieces layered together without seam sealer which are forever wet.
Rockers and the remaining floor is all removed here
And the factory welds holding the rockers to the cowl? Mercy that is a lot of porosity
Interesting to see how the rockers were attached to the cowl. Problematic because there are multiple sheet metal pieces layered together without seam sealer which are forever wet.
Rockers and the remaining floor is all removed here
And the factory welds holding the rockers to the cowl? Mercy that is a lot of porosity
Lose that stupid morphed out wierd box floor support thing, reinforce the floor where the body mount goes, put it back on but yeah, if you can redo the problematic layered areas and just do it your way its better IMO than redoing the factory set up.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
That’s a lot of bananas.
- Thread starter
- #194
Yeah. This is a Costco sized bunch of bananas
Goal for today was just to get the cowl fully stripped and separated down to where Toyota had it before they joined it to the 3/4 tub. There will be no more secrets after that blaster gets ahold of it tomorrow
My friend who’s going to do the majority of the body work/repair is a sheet metal genie. It’s highly likely it’ll go back together better than stock
I may help with some fitting or welding but he probably won’t need it
- Thread starter
- #195
Ok, so this Thexton screw remover is actually the one I have. I remember because the name is so odd
www.jbtools.com
To anyone who’s going to use one, please read.
You will will want to put the Phillips or slotted driver right into the fastener, activate the air hammer and immediately start trying to loosen the screw by turning it. DON’T
Just activate the air hammer and push directly in against the fastener, hard. The insane amount of noise you’re now making is going to annoy your neighbors and kill every bird in a 1/4 mile radius. This is good, this is what you want. One of Ed’s friends who lives at least 1/2 mile away across the lake heard it, PERFECT
Just keep hammering on it while pushing in on the fastener. 30-60 seconds on those windshield screws seemed good. What it’s doing is beating the daylights out of all the corrosion in the threads that actually has that fastener stuck tight. And it’s doing that without damaging the fastener or anything else so the more you hammer on it the better. When you think you’ve done enough try turning it. Usually they aren’t tight at all at that point, several of the windshield screws required almost no turning pressure to get them moving.
I usual start turning them a bit (while still rattling them) then work them back and forth a bit once they initially loosen. At this point, you can likely remove them with a screwdriver or battery powered impact. DUN
Thexton 482 Fastener Removal Tool
Buy Thexton 482 Fastener Removal Tool with an everyday low price and fast shipping! JB Tools
www.jbtools.com
To anyone who’s going to use one, please read.
You will will want to put the Phillips or slotted driver right into the fastener, activate the air hammer and immediately start trying to loosen the screw by turning it. DON’T
Just activate the air hammer and push directly in against the fastener, hard. The insane amount of noise you’re now making is going to annoy your neighbors and kill every bird in a 1/4 mile radius. This is good, this is what you want. One of Ed’s friends who lives at least 1/2 mile away across the lake heard it, PERFECT
Just keep hammering on it while pushing in on the fastener. 30-60 seconds on those windshield screws seemed good. What it’s doing is beating the daylights out of all the corrosion in the threads that actually has that fastener stuck tight. And it’s doing that without damaging the fastener or anything else so the more you hammer on it the better. When you think you’ve done enough try turning it. Usually they aren’t tight at all at that point, several of the windshield screws required almost no turning pressure to get them moving.
I usual start turning them a bit (while still rattling them) then work them back and forth a bit once they initially loosen. At this point, you can likely remove them with a screwdriver or battery powered impact. DUN
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- Thread starter
- #196
Dropped off at JB Blasters, Arlington, WA. And Ed and I need to pick it up by 0630 TOMORROW so that’s a QUICK turnaround
- Thread starter
- #197
It’s back…
The cowl is… pretty darn good
Marking all the nonsense extra holes. SO many, good grief. Somebody needs their drill bit set taken away
Seriously. RIGHT next to the wiper switch. What good could that possibly do?
The cowl is… pretty darn good
Marking all the nonsense extra holes. SO many, good grief. Somebody needs their drill bit set taken away
Seriously. RIGHT next to the wiper switch. What good could that possibly do?
- Thread starter
- #198
Underside of the dash. Littered with extra holes
Someone did a “fancy” rear sill fix. Nope. Missing all 4 provisions for the body mounts, cut that out
Someone did a “fancy” rear sill fix. Nope. Missing all 4 provisions for the body mounts, cut that out
- Thread starter
- #199
I have never done this.
Pulled the “pocket” insert by cutting all the spot welds. Too far gone after the squirrel melted inside. We’ll bend a new box up later
Full of holes
Pulled the “pocket” insert by cutting all the spot welds. Too far gone after the squirrel melted inside. We’ll bend a new box up later
Full of holes
- Thread starter
- #200
I am doing bodywork
Did 3-4 coats of filler where it needed it. Dents, welded up holes, etc. Removed as much of the factory seam sealer with a carbide grinder on a dremel. Masked up the areas that are going to be welded/joined to the 3/4 tub and shot it with primer
Overall, pretty good for a 1st coat. Last Saturday, we pulled this cowl out of the field and it was covered in moss and slime
Started separating the terribly bent cowl from the 3/4 tub
Done. Just need to sand everything down and expose the rockers so the 3/4 tub can be joined to the straight primered cowl
Did 3-4 coats of filler where it needed it. Dents, welded up holes, etc. Removed as much of the factory seam sealer with a carbide grinder on a dremel. Masked up the areas that are going to be welded/joined to the 3/4 tub and shot it with primer
Overall, pretty good for a 1st coat. Last Saturday, we pulled this cowl out of the field and it was covered in moss and slime
Started separating the terribly bent cowl from the 3/4 tub
Done. Just need to sand everything down and expose the rockers so the 3/4 tub can be joined to the straight primered cowl