Ebay Aluminum Radiator

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2x the price of the mislabeled ebay diesel radiators and you still have to trim them.

Maybe a group buy of the ebay all aluminum radiators along with someone doing all the simple fixes at one time is another idea. Or show the vendor what to do and have them make it a standard product. The Chinese like to copy things. (not being racist, just observant and I used to have a factory there)
 
Replaced the radiator, big hoses and clamps several weeks ago. Noticed that my coolant level was 1 liter (~1 quart) or so low every few days but never saw a drip. I'd smell antifreeze while driving on hot days but never see a leak. Got worried it was the head gasket again or heater core. Replaced the radiator cap and tightened up the constant tension clamps on the PHH and all the new clamps for the big hoses.

The other day after a quick trip I noticed a substantial drip from the rear of the engine but could not spot the leak and it stopped after 1-2 minutes. Got back home and topped it off after cool down. Took it out tonight for a test drive and sure enough after 10 minutes of highway driving I came to a stop to check for leaks and there it was again. Drove back and put it right up on the lift. Took off the driver side front wheel. A HAH! Pinhole in the hose that runs from the head up to the throttle body. Sneaky, very very sneaky.

Had to notch the aluminum angle on the side of the radiator at bottom below the filler to clear the core support and radiator mounts.

Have to add a small nipple for the bypass hose the runs to the head behind the distributor.

The fan shroud mounting holes have to be moved over a few inches.

The lower outlet tube is 1/8" smaller than the factory so you'll need an extra hose clamp or make another lower hose.

I already had a trans cooler in front of the radiator, so not having one in the bottom of the tank was not an issue for me.

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What does USA stock mean….
 
2x the price of the mislabeled ebay diesel radiators and you still have to trim them.

Maybe a group buy of the ebay all aluminum radiators along with someone doing all the simple fixes at one time is another idea. Or show the vendor what to do and have them make it a standard product. The Chinese like to copy things. (not being racist, just observant and I used to have a factory there)
It doesn’t look like the Chinese version though the reviews do state trimming the fan shroud. If there’s heavy modifications like adding the top nipple then you’re better off just going the Ron Davis route few $100 more.
 
I’m really thinking about ordering the eBay aluminum one without the trans cooler stuff.

not so worried about things lining up perfectly, I need to reroute the lower hose right now, and thinking of upsizing the outlet and inlet to 2” to match the Cummins to simplify the hoses for tight bends and then delete reducer I have
 
The ebay version for <$300 has 3mm walls for the tanks. At least mine does. They weld easily with a Tig. The tanks are nearly thick enough to just drill and tap vs add a drilled and tapped boss for the nipple.
 
There are versions of this Chinese radiator with the trans cooler by the way. They're all over the Australian ebay site, some seller here is flogging a bunch of them.
 
How are these working out for folks?
 
How are these working out for folks?
I would love to know as well….I just ended up going with the TYC1918 radiator….but in my 20yrs of ownership I’ve had’94 OEM rad, CSF, and stock oem ‘97 rad. I really can’t see forking out $1500 for a Ron Davis radiator at this point in my LC life.

There’s a company in Florida that sells a full aluminum radiator for $800 but the company got bad reviews

My TYC is holding up but it’s only been a month, though our ambient temperatures have been in the 100° and I’m running about 186° and hill climbing fully loaded AC on and I’m at 200° but only for a minute or so. I’m also running a modified blue fan clutch.

My CSF worked great for about 5yrs then all of a sudden it couldn’t keep up with the California summer and the demands of cooling the LC in traffic with AC on… no signs of leaks, it just seems like it gave up cooling 🤷‍♂️

My 100 is still running the CSF radiator and it’s about 4yrs old with no issues
 
Six months in my 4 row version for $300 off ebay is fine. It was missing the trans cooler but I have another one in front of the radiator anyway. Had to do some nibbling near one lower corner is all. If you are willing to pay $1500 for an aluminum radiator I will offer to make you one custom in any thickness you wish and I'll even anodize pictures of your friends and family into it. Versions are also available in silver or 24K gold. PM me for details :)
 
Haha! I have a 1HDT with CSF that heat soaks like crazy....I can hit 230F easy running consistent 1150F EGT up long climbs (with modded 25k clutch). Since I have a diesel, $1400 is best spent on an intercooler and definitely not a radiator.... But if I could spend $300 and drop my temps even 10F that would be well worth it. Plastic tank OEM is probably better for cooling but no tranny warmer is available in OEM for my rig anymore......
 
Haha! I have a 1HDT with CSF that heat soaks like crazy....I can hit 230F easy running consistent 1150F EGT up long climbs (with modded 25k clutch). Since I have a diesel, $1400 is best spent on an intercooler and definitely not a radiator.... But if I could spend $300 and drop my temps even 10F that would be well worth it. Plastic tank OEM is probably better for cooling but no tranny warmer is available in OEM for my rig anymore......
I can cast and form a complete new front end for your cruiser in aluminum. We can spread the coolant over a much larger area this way. Easily 5-10x the cooling area. With enough heat spreader we should be able to keep the coolant temp near ambient in most situations. You may to trade a wide field of view out the windshield for it, but hey the engine will be cooler. PM me for details :)
 
I got this 4-row aluminium ebay radiator for my HZJ80:
I picked it up for $275 AUD shipped on an offer, but it's not actually installed, just sitting in the box for a rainy day. Looks reasonable though, can't see anything wrong with it.

I'm actually going to put a new OEM radiator back in next, which I've already picked up. I figure the old one has lasted 25 years (and counting) so a new OEM one seems like the way to go. That said, I might change my mind in the future, and a solid aluminium radiator for $275 seems like something I can safely drop money on now and mostly recoup later selling it on if I decide I don't need it.
 
I'm interested in increased cooling capacity as well, huge issue with the 1HDT at arid elevations (most of my driving is at 4-8k feet).
These 4 rows seems to have a core 2.75" thick....my current CSF is 1.75" thick. There's an extra inch between the fan and OEM radiator in there?
 
Haha! I have a 1HDT with CSF that heat soaks like crazy....I can hit 230F easy running consistent 1150F EGT up long climbs (with modded 25k clutch). Since I have a diesel, $1400 is best spent on an intercooler and definitely not a radiator.... But if I could spend $300 and drop my temps even 10F that would be well worth it. Plastic tank OEM is probably better for cooling but no tranny warmer is available in OEM for my rig anymore......
There are inline trans thermo switch for the trans cooler…some coolers even have a built in thermostat
 
That's a good point. But I think the WARMER is a good idea for me living at 7500', not just a cooler bypass.......right now I'm running into an external cooler then into the radiator and my temps are very consistent which I like. I've read others that haven't had any problems in really cold temps without it but.......
 

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