Early pickup/hilux and 4-runner tech and classifieds
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Weight has nothing to do with speedometer correctness.
It's not hard to remember if your speedo is 5-10% off. I've never understood why people care so much.
It's not hard to remember if your speedo is 5-10% off. I've never understood why people care so much.
I wouldn't care much about the speedo, but it is nice to have an odometer that's accurate. I'm running 4.88s and 33's and I've calculated the odometet just to be a fraction of a percent off.
Use this site to calculate exact metrics of your setup. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
This site is pretty awesome!
Thanks. The 4Runner is a buddies who just bought it from Adventure Copan in Dallas. Wants the cheapest/easiest route and, combined, he and I are a 2.5 banana mechanic...if there is a Youtube video. He's comparing the availability/cost of 4.88s and/or a 5-speed.
Well, take it from experience, when some dude tells you a used 5speed is good for daily driver use.... its probably not. So if you go the 5spd route, rebuild it first or buy one from Marlin. Or be an idiot like me. Im buying one from marlin. Thankfully i only paid like 300 bucks for the one im running now. If you have auto-manual swap questions hit me up! Just messed with all of that in January. You can get Yukon gears for around $200ish, but id take them to someone who knows what they are doing to install them.
Also from experience.... you want a W56B transmission, or at least one that is top shift. Easy way to tell is the transfer-case shifter is coming out of the transfer case. This way, your shifters will sit further back in the cab... I did this when I knew little to nothing, got a G52 and my shifters sit super far forward and the shifters are long as hell. The G52 is for bench seat trucks i believe. Basically if the trans shifter and t-case shifter are right next to each other, it will work.... but it will be super goofy and you wont be able to use the 4runner shift bezel trim and boot. Just sayin
Also from experience.... you want a W56B transmission, or at least one that is top shift. Easy way to tell is the transfer-case shifter is coming out of the transfer case. This way, your shifters will sit further back in the cab... I did this when I knew little to nothing, got a G52 and my shifters sit super far forward and the shifters are long as hell. The G52 is for bench seat trucks i believe. Basically if the trans shifter and t-case shifter are right next to each other, it will work.... but it will be super goofy and you wont be able to use the 4runner shift bezel trim and boot. Just sayin
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G52/G54 transmissions came with the 22R (carbed) and the W56 came with the 22RE (fuel injected). Either transmission will fit with either engine because the blocks are the same, this is just how they came from the factory.
But like dbbowen said, the shifters sit further back on the W56 and the W56 is understood to be a bit stronger, so it would be a better bet.
If you decide to get a new one from Marlin just know that you'll have to eat the $300 core charge since you won't have a core to exchange.
But like dbbowen said, the shifters sit further back on the W56 and the W56 is understood to be a bit stronger, so it would be a better bet.
If you decide to get a new one from Marlin just know that you'll have to eat the $300 core charge since you won't have a core to exchange.
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Did your buddy leave Coronado after 7 months with a Trident?
Nope. Poor bastard left with a Reduction-in-Force Discharge. Re-occurring Pneumonia during Hell Week on 1st and 3rd classes, and a dangerously swollen Achilles from the antibiotics during the second class...bundled with his refusal to ring the bell, led to a Navy career of just under a year-and-a-half.
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Damn.
Anyone have a Usable top shift transfer case for a W series transmission??? I will trade you an entire G52 transmission and case for it, or just buy it from you. It needs to be top shift, and im also looking for a shifter handle (stick) for a W56B transmission, topsift
Rear should be bolt-in. Front will likely work, but depends on year and auto-hubs vs locking hubs I believe he used there's a vacuum disconnect at the diff tube for the auto-locking hubs? Just double-check on the front. The rear will work. Keep in mind that third can't be re-geared in the future due to the goofy 4.88 factory gears. Something about pinion offset I believe???
correct @Jordan7118 the ring gear is thinner then any aftermarket sets, so if it blows then either oem gears or a new diff.
If the front diff has the disco on the long side then it can be swapped with his standard tube, or vice-versa if needed.
If the front diff has the disco on the long side then it can be swapped with his standard tube, or vice-versa if needed.