Builds Dusty Roads - Tilda Bogue Service Station

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Doors lined up great.
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Got the front doors done.
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Spooled in a new rope into the PTO
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That’s where it ends for the day. Taking the cap for a headliner tomorrow.

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Do you have a preference for door seals OEM vs the City Racer variety? What type of glue for the seals is your go to? Thanks Nolen it’s looking phenomenal as usual!
 
Took the cap this am for a headliner, made a parts run and then swapped out the external regulator alrernator for an internal FJ60 style.

Such an easy swap. Pull the switched 12 signal off the old harness and add a good thick gauge cable from the alternator to the battery direct.

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Was that alternator you used part # 27060-61090-84? (Rman)

I order them off RockAuto. 10 o’clock for a FJ60. I get new pulleys from @ToyotaMatt

I’ve had good luck with them.

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I order them off RockAuto. 10 o’clock for a FJ60. I get new pulleys from @ToyotaMatt

I’ve had good luck with them.

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Thanks. I saw an older thread with you and Coolerman using a 60 series alternator of sorts. The bracket setup seemed wrong in thinking it through. And I saw the picture above and wondered how. Makes sense. Appreciate your posts and your work. It is a craft you practice!
 
Thanks. I saw an older thread with you and Coolerman using a 60 series alternator of sorts. The bracket setup seemed wrong in thinking it through. And I saw the picture above and wondered how. Makes sense. Appreciate your posts and your work. It is a craft you practice!
I changed out the thermostat to see if it runs a little cooler next time I drive it.

Changed out the rear emblems

Changed out the crusty faded out mirrors with OEM

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to add with what Nolen has discussed above thus far ...

- anytime we are dealing with a
2F / 2F engine with the passenger side upper mounting location alternator , this would be 1/75 - 9/87 FJ40 , FJ55 , FJ60 ..

- using Genuine
NipponDenso alternator platform is a must , and in all the Rock Auto ones above , are simply re-manufactured , from and using original front and rear aluminum frame case's or clam shell halves ,,,,

- this is OK , ...

- if you look closely on the rear frame clam shell of the unit he installed , it has the big
ND cast on it center middle all proud and bold like we all like to see it :D


- now the details that matter here the most ..............

- we must always use a
12 o'clock & 6 o'clock / clocking-tabs unit , this refers to the bottom 2 pivot-tabs being our base line of 6 o'clock / pm .... and the top single female threaded lock down tab being the 12 o'clock position / location .....

- the why factor here is TOYOTA used
10am / 6pm ones and 2pm / 6pm clocked tabs also , all over the world that would physically bolt up to the 2F bottom cast iron cradle mount pivot 2 tabs , but after that the single top lock down picot tab would NOT mechanically communicate with the 16381-61011 / 61012 drive belt adjust bar you see in Nolans tech photo above ....

- that is the T-TEN lecture-level tech. version ,,,, :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :idea:

- don't overthink this more then always always
12 & 6 o'clock ......... eazy-peezy ..


- please add any details i overlooked here mr. Grogan sir ..:wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench:


matt


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Thanks Matt. To add to that the 10 and 2 they are talking about is if they have the square external regulator.

If you choose 2:00 it most likely won’t let you push the alternator over far enough to get the stock size belt on.

Thanks Matt.
 
Thanks Matt. To add to that the 10 and 2 they are talking about is if they have the square external regulator.

If you choose 2:00 it most likely won’t let you push the alternator over far enough to get the stock size belt on.

Thanks Matt.



my clocking tech. above was simply diving deep into Alternator clocking tabs in general ,

the " piggy-back " SLF regulator topic as it relates to all 8/80-9/87 FJ40 FJ60 is a
messed up mess , because various other TOYOTA vehical platforms cars and trucks came with the little square box piggy back S L F regulator on the oppisite side as a land cruiser , only a land cruiser has it on its opsing side


the usa based reman. alternator builders , LUCAS , BECK Armley , DELCO Remy , Lazorlite , ,,,,,got the 2 rear frame case ends mixed up so bad 3 decades ago ,

that is why we all occasionally get one with the piggy back on the wrong engine oil cooler side

the double grooves 2 small V - belt and NOT a correct 17mmm wide Land Cruiser Cogged Teeth drive belt is another dibocal i will co over when time permits



excellent build sheet build work on this 40 as usual ,........ :) :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:
 
Started in on the paint correction today.

Clr and a blue scotchbrite was needed before I cleaned it and started polishing. The paint was real rough. You can tell this thing has been living in the elements.

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Made it around the truck with Complete Compound. Polish is next

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Found a nasty spot and a non OEM cas cap so cleaned and replaced.

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Is that one of them shameless plugs?🤪

shameless nothing on this little rascal ....

- flip down fuel door

- gas pedal

- brake pedal

- clutch pedal

- mesh metal screen in front of radiator

- some toyota's have
x2 per clutch pedal so you don't get that FJ40 💥 in your up your spine when you bottom out on the fire wall .......

- i have used them for all sorts of killer-kool niche problem solvers on all sorts of toyota cars and trucks ....

- make sure you use the exact same drill bit size as toyota factory hole , but way way more importantly you need a Jewelers mini-hand-file set , to dress up the new drilled out hole and the side the bit comes through real nice and rub you finger across and feel ZERO burrs , otherwise when you use the FSM correct install step by 1 step , of spitting on the little tip , they using hobby-size spec. duck-bill needle nose to pull the tit / teet from the rear . this fresh spit lubes it on the fly , you know head and neck up under inside your pedal bucket we we all like a-lot ......

it will magickly just " pop " in place .....


- hood and bonnet to fender apron contact surfaces

- trunk and deck lids to what ever its called then slam shut on same in kind ...

- door pin-switch contact points

- i prefer to install these on the moving parts , where water could then make rust if on the bottom flat surface , so up on the hood itself too

- rear 12/74 older barn doors ...

- you name it , metal on metal got your kittly all in a hiss 😾 , these oem cushions are thick and meaty enough UV rated EPDM , but not to thick i have ever had to then take one out .........on a kustom install use Toyota speaking only of course ....

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Forgot to post up the headliner and top install yesterday
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Took it for a nice test drive.
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Glamor shots in the sunlight. Hard to believe this is the same turd that landed here
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