Drip Channel rust/repair (1 Viewer)

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
OK, so my little bubble turned into a little more. I decided to scratch it with my fingernail and it stated revealing itself.


E1144EC1-62C2-4607-BC87-8A8D5B598FC2_1_105_c.jpeg


I then decided to take the drimmel tool to it and noticed that I will have to pop the channel off and reattach a new one or a portion of a new one.

does this channel just get tap welded and glued to the pillar? I'm sure this is a common repair right?


Screen Shot 2020-06-25 at 10.58.41 PM.png
C2EB7977-73A4-474A-AC05-6AC982C910B2_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,274
Location
Southern Colorado
 
 
 
I suspect you need to keep going until you get all the rust off, and see how big the hole is. At that point, I would weld a small plate of 22ga metal over the hole, sand and clean it up, and prime/paint. I don't think you need to tear apart the whole gutter - it's all welded together.

But, since you're in TX, the roof caulk in the gutter may be shot from UV exposure, and may be what led to this pillar problem. You need to eliminate water getting into that area by stopping the entry and then parking indoors.
 

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
Ya, the tough part is that I'll have to take a part of the gutter off in that area in order to know if I have a big hole or not. Do they still make the gutter available for sale (6126490A01)? I can't find the OEM version but there is the whole gutter available on Cool Cruisers, anyone bought this?

I think it's a sign that I have to re-caulk all the gutter. What's the best solution? 3M sealer?
 

OSS

Joined
Jun 30, 2017
Messages
2,991
Location
Oblivion
I'd stop what you're doing. You'll make a mess of the gutter if you keep on digging.
Protecting the gutter is easy.
Just spray an anti corrosion inhibitor (Borsheild, Corrosion-X, etc) into the top gutter at the roof using a spray straw and let it drip down and around the gutter.
Do it regularly and it won't rust anymore.
 

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
I'd stop what you're doing. You'll make a mess of the gutter if you keep on digging.
Protecting the gutter is easy.
Just spray an anti corrosion inhibitor (Borsheild, Corrosion-X, etc) into the top gutter at the roof using a spray straw and let it drip down and around the gutter.
Do it regularly and it won't rust anymore.
That was my other option I was considering, but I always wondered how well the inhibitors and encapsulators work. looking at the Eastwood versions.

For regular maintenance, I'm assuming I would have to take the caulk out, spray the inhibitor and then recaulk every 3-4 years?
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,274
Location
Southern Colorado
 
 
 
If it will be chronically exposed to TX humidity and salt air, it will be difficult to keep corrosion from returning.

If you (metaphorically) stood on your roof and looked down at your rain gutters, how is the caulk in the gutter bottoms? If it's peeling and sun-fried, that is likely the cause of much of this.
 

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
I think the PO did more than just paint a few spots. I'm guessing he painted the gutters as well so not sure what's underneath. It all doesn't look too bad. it's just the two symmetric spots on DS and PS.

 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
26,485
Location
Durham, NC
 
 
 
I had the same issue. It's caused by the rain gutter caulk failing, and not being repaired soon enough. This is how I fixed it.

1593543167657.png


1593543196705.png


1593543215949.png


1593543232819.png


1593543248212.png
 
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
283
Location
Seattle
 
Both sides cleaned up well, patched if necessary, then welded back up.
Is the A pillar rain gutter just tacked to the body? If so, did you remove with same size rotabroach you used on the door skins in your build thread?
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
26,485
Location
Durham, NC
 
 
 
Is the A pillar rain gutter just tacked to the body? If so, did you remove with same size rotabroach you used on the door skins in your build thread?
Spotwelded, yes. 3/8" rotabroach i think, but you can go bigger/smaller depending on your preferences.

You do have to cut the raingutter at the top to separate it from the section that runs above the door. You can see where I cut here:
1593568894153.png
 

Spook50

I got a rock
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
6,003
Location
Spokane, WA
 
 
 
OK, so my little bubble turned into a little more. I decided to scratch it with my fingernail and it stated revealing itself.


View attachment 2351929

I then decided to take the drimmel tool to it and noticed that I will have to pop the channel off and reattach a new one or a portion of a new one.

does this channel just get tap welded and glued to the pillar? I'm sure this is a common repair right?


View attachment 2351931View attachment 2351933
Oh fudge. Mine looks worse without taking any paint off. I shudder to think what I'm going to find underneath....
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
26,485
Location
Durham, NC
 
 
 
This seems cheap enough and should do the job. Anybody try this?

Amazon product
No, but if this is the one job you need it for, it may do the trick. The rotabroach set is much more expensive, but I find I use it quite a bit.

Oh fudge. Mine looks worse without taking any paint off. I shudder to think what I'm going to find underneath....
Whatever you do, don't just sit on it. Its only going to get worse.
 

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
Well I was a little overzealous on drilling out the tack welds on the DS, made some holes. Did a better job on the PS.

3C500633-E75C-4E0F-8EA7-A566EA8DE9D8_1_105_c.jpeg
E2027D0F-315B-4285-A9EB-4EA1E25832E9_1_105_c.jpeg

Cleaned things up and got as much rust as possible with steel brush and dremel tool. Then I applied the Eastwood rust converter on the DS but I didn't think I needed to do same on PS.



31924A74-5638-469A-8877-C82429C28685_1_105_c.jpeg
8606351C-B1E4-4DAC-9775-2FED3D8DC644_1_105_c.jpeg

The metal srips are eaten up by rust. Wondering if they're still good to put back on... this is my current plan.
96D899DD-974B-41F9-82A7-402FD71FE6EB_1_105_c.jpeg


@GLTHFJ60 , I'm thinking of priming with encapsulator then remove around the weld areas before I put back on the pillar. Did you do anything like that? Also, I know I screwed up on the DS, it's going to be a PITA welding with those holes, any tips?
 

GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
26,485
Location
Durham, NC
 
 
 
I can't really see what your "screw up" was, but yes, I converted the rust, then painted with a weld-through primer, and welded them on.
 

TexFJ

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 11, 2020
Messages
462
Location
Texas
I can't really see what your "screw up" was, but yes, I converted the rust, then painted with a weld-through primer, and welded them on.
Screw up was drilling the thru holes in the pillar and not just the plate. I’ll have to close pillar holes up before welding plate back on.
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom