Dreaded internal distributor oil leak! (1 Viewer)

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NorCalFJ100

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So it's that time. My distributor caught the internal oil leak bug. Really it's just more annoying than anything. It's a slight drip from the bottom of the cap onto my radiator hose.

I can source a good used one from a friend locally. But I've invested quite a bit over these last few years getting everything all clean and new under the hood.

Am I crazy to buy a brand new one just to know I'm good for the foreseeable future? Or take a chance with a used one?

Anyone have any indication what the service life of these are? The internal leak doesn't seem to come up all the time...
 
One of my 80's has had a small internal leak (past the shaft seal and bearing) for 10 years, haven't touched the distributor cap during that time period (70,000 miles), no issues.

If you're going to clean the area under the cap, do not use Carb or Brake cleaner, those solvents are too harsh and can damage the rubber of the bearing seal (or shaft seal) if you have the distributor out of the head. They can make the leak worse. CRC Quick Dry Electronics cleaner is the only thing I use. FWIW.
 
One of my 80's has had a small internal leak (past the shaft seal and bearing) for 10 years, haven't touched the distributor cap during that time period (70,000 miles), no issues.

If you're going to clean the area under the cap, do not use Carb or Brake cleaner, those solvents are too harsh and can damage the rubber of the bearing seal (or shaft seal) if you have the distributor out of the head. They can make the leak worse. CRC Quick Dry Electronics cleaner is the only thing I use. FWIW.

Thanks for the insight. I do think it can be left. How often did you clean under the cap? I'm just a bit over the top with my PM and OCD. Haha.

I think I have this ever so slight misfire when idling. Very very slight. Not sure if there's a correlation.
 
Mine dripped oil in to the alternator and although the oil didn't "hurt" it directly the stuff that sticks to it did. I used that as a reason to upgrade to a tundra alternator when i replaced my distributor.

Took 3 months for the alternator to start failing to charge.
 
Mine dripped oil in to the alternator and although the oil didn't "hurt" it directly the stuff that sticks to it did. I used that as a reason to upgrade to a tundra alternator when i replaced my distributor.

Took 3 months for the alternator to start failing to charge.

^^^^^^
It might take awhile, but 'oil saturation' will kill an alternator every time. So we don't want any significant or accumulating oil leaks in that area as you found out.

Normally that kind of leak would be from the external distributor shaft that fits in the bore of the head. The O-ring there becomes hard and brittle over time and doesn't seal well. The 'internal' leak is not something repairable that I am aware of.
 
@clx16 @flintknapper I pretty much clean all the oil drips every few weeks. I've got a brand new motor and super clean engine bay right now...so I notice everything! Lol. Part of the reason this bugs me.
 
I haven't removed the distributor cap or cleaned under it for 9-10 years,
when I last replaced the O-ring on the shaft housing. As mentioned above,
the major leak source from the distributor is from the O-ring, but oil leaking from the oil pump cover can get blown up/over to the alternator.

And when the oIl pump cover leak gets really bad the oil mist in that area is like taking a ride in the "Maid of the Mist" boat at the base of Niagara Falls; everything gets covered in oil.

But I digress: for NorCalFJ100 and your superclean 80, a new distributor
will solve the issue.
 
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The internal seal and bearing can be replaced but seems to be quite involved. As @Kernal describes, toyota used a unique design that is not designed for any kind of service.

A new oem would be great(450$), but I would like to buy a cheap aftermarket one and compare. Where could an aftermarket distributor (150$) with oem rotor and cap and internals be worse than complete oem?
 
I have 3 years almost on my cheap aftermarket one. Since they are easy to replace just kept the old one in order to get me home if it fails completely
 
clx16: what brand is your aftermarket distributor, made in chyna? Price?
 
@Kernal def has to be chyna..parts player is the brand....https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VVC3T7M/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they were 62 when i got mine but looks to have gone up. Would be good for someone to take the financial hit and take one down to compare internals...maybe find a seal/bearing source in the process.
 
I've taken an original distributor apart, found a bearing and seal
that will fit, however the original shaft seal is really unique; triple lips
and a sort of "crud" shield to keep debris away from the seal internally.
I spent months trying to find that exact same seal, talked directly to major seal manufacturers and major distributors. No one made, stocked, or had ever seen that particular design before. There are seals that are close in design to the original Denso/Toyota part which should work however.
 
Amazon product ASIN B00VVC3T7M
I went with this one 6 mos ago based on another members experience with it. Then cleaned the alternator and rebrushed.
Also replaced steering/rad hoses at the same time.
No issues so far. Seems to be pretty well made and as near to OEM as I can tell.
And seeing a clean alternator and hoses when I pop the hood is worth it every time.
 
Any indication on the distributor, the cap, or in the box as to where it was manufactured?
 
FYI, I saw one on the classifieds recently, not new BIRC it had less than 150K on it. Priced mid $100
 
What is interesting is that even some of the replacements on Rockauto are approaching about 50% of new OEM. Cardone even offers a remanufactured unit with a core charge. They must've found that holy grail seal @Kernal was trying to find!!

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My bad, it was an alternator in the Classifieds, carry on.
 
For the price I'd guess it's Chinese. But honestly I don't recall seeing any origin ID.
 
If you keep an eye on Partsouq they have just the distributor body for $135. When in stock they sell out quickly.
Toyota #1923566020

 

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