Dozer's Grey Ghost Gets a Vortec (FJ62/5.3L/4L60E)

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Dozer18 said:
Hey Grumpy, I saw your thread and MarkN's reply from yesterday, and the consensus seems to be that the stock FJ62 fuel pump puts out sufficient pressure to feed the Vortec without any problems. I assure you there won't be any cutting corners when it comes to the fuel system!

Thanks for the lead on the filter kit at Speedway; I haven't seen that kit yet and if we go that route I'll definitely get that!
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You are welcome. I am at nearly the same place you are in my build although I have a bit of a head start since a PO installed 5.7 and 700R4 in my Cruiser.
I was ready to go the stock 62 pump route but the engine builder says absolutely not and he holds the warranty. This in no way refutes any success others have had using the 62 pump.
David
 
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Dozer18 said:
1) Based on @MarkN's experience (and others), we can run the stock FJ62 fuel pump (though I would replace it since I have no idea how many miles are on it; I know I haven't replaced it in ten years) to the Wix filter/regulator (the Corvette filter) then feed on straight to the fuel rail. This engine has a returnless fuel system but I guess we would still have to run a return from the filter/regulator back to the tank?
2) Modify the stock fuel pump hanger assembly to take the GM OEM fuel pump for that engine (which will push fuel at the stock pressure) through a GM OEM fuel filter to the rail. No return line, but this would essentially be the exact same as the stock setup in the vehicle it came out of. Why has no one done this (that I know of)? What are we missing here? If there is a strong case to be made for a return line on this returnless engine, I would then have to use the Aeromotive FPR or...

3) A third alternative would be same as above but use the Wix filter/regulator rather than GM OEM filter and run a return line from the filter.

***QUESTION***: What Dakota and I don't understand is why so many guys run return lines (whether from a standalone FPR like the Aeromotive or from the Wix filter) on Vortec models that use a returnless fuel system. Why don't more people run a stock Chevy/GM fuel system in the 62 (OEM pump, OEM filter to the rail)? Then there are no concerns about pressure and no need for a regulator.

Just some thoughts about things that have confused me a bit, and I get more confused when I don't see others running simpler systems (nothing wrong with fancy, though). I myself am leaning to the FJ62 pump (based on the experience of others) to the 'Vette filter. Simple and cheap(er); sounds like the pressure works. Dakota is leaning towards modifying the pump assembly to take the GM OEM pump and using a GM OEM filter to give gas to the ending the way the Vortec was intended to get it. I think he just wants to mod something, though.
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Yes, and no.... I initally ran the FJ60 Tank with an inline pump.. and no return line (my engine has only one fuel line goin in) too noisy.

Then I ran an FJ62 tank with a walbro intank pump. 5.3 fuel pump WTF
Much more quiet. I ran the wix filter cause simply put it is a filter that acts as a FPR as well. Do I need to have it as a FPR? Dont know, but I figure it could not hurt. It would be good to run it as the stock set up as you suggested, let us know...
The Wix is the only filter I run on the line. The walbro pump has a sock in the tank as well.
Check out this thread if you havent already.. just another option to help yah get a conversion with no Evap codes. Valley Hybrids also has a thread floating around where he modded the fuel sender to mimic the GM set up on a FJ6X tank.. Im sure someone will post it ...

Now I run the GM pump again with the same wix filter....
P1010692.JPG


GM pump is going on 4 years with no problemo.....
the only noise/sound I hear is when I turn the ignition key on and I hear the fuel system prime up for about a second and that's about it....


Dozer18 said:
Greg, thanks for the input and questions! I have followed your thread as well and I got your spreadsheet from @fjeng. Many thanks!

To answer your questions:
1. My brother pulled the OE radiator this weekend and swore I needed a new one. I trust him, and it's a chance to upgrade. Will overresearch it, of course, but likely go with a Champion Aluminum (used by @theron and @MarkN among others) unless @NCFJ can convince me to splurge on the Griffin custom-made combo radiator with electric fans...
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Aluminum Radiators & Electrolysis

EDIT: if you go with a mech fan and you build your own fiberglass or alum shroud read up on how far/close it should be from the fan blades.. this also makes a huge difference.. again, key is to mimic stock set up.....

BTW subbed :popcorn::popcorn:

:beer:
 
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Gotta make a decision on this fuel system; Dakota is getting ahead of me!

Next up for me: get the harness ordered. If anyone has any experience with Techrods, please let me know. Otherwise I'm going with the tried and true Howell route. Not much price difference.
 
Alright, Boys, gonna try to pioneer something here. Dakota is going to mod the stock pump assembly to utilize the OEM GM fuel pump. I'll let him elaborate on exactly how he's going to do that using the GM repair kit and the FJ62 harness, and he'll document it with pics. That should supply 80psi to the Wix filter/regulator, which will send fuel at 58psi to the rail. Going to supply the system with Summit S/S braided hose and aluminum fittings. Done worrying about the fuel lines for now...

Next alligator up is the harness, and gotta start really thinking about the cooling system...

You guys are quiet all of a sudden!
 
Dozer18 said:
Alright, Boys, gonna try to pioneer something here. Dakota is going to mod the stock pump assembly to utilize the OEM GM fuel pump. I'll let him elaborate on exactly how he's going to do that using the GM repair kit and the FJ62 harness, and he'll document it with pics. That should supply 80psi to the Wix filter/regulator, which will send fuel at 58psi to the rail. Going to supply the system with Summit S/S braided hose and aluminum fittings. Done worrying about the fuel lines for now...

Next alligator up is the harness, and gotta start really thinking about the cooling system...

You guys are quiet all of a sudden!
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I would really like to see the innards of the 62 fuel tank and pump as I am even farther way from my Cruiser than you are. I have to return, figure out the pump situation and get on the road to my Uncle's shop in Colorado where the swap is being performed all within 10 days or so.
David
I also researched the heck out of the cooling system from OEM to LS swap and brass to aluminum. I finally went with Pacific Fabrication making the radiator since they are a high end shop and known to me. Their price was a few hundred less than the Griffin LS with an electric fan and added steam port.
I am getting their motor and transmission and wiring harness too so if there are problems it will be a one stop fix.
David
 
Dozer18 said:
Greg, thanks for the input and questions! I have followed your thread as well and I got your spreadsheet from @fjeng. Many thanks!

4. As someone mentioned, 50-state compliant is not bad, and no real loss of performance these days with two cats. They aren't that expensive for universal cats, either, and I like clean air (I contributed enough to putting bad things in the environment via 1,600 hours in the cockpit).
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No problem... I'm an analyst so these are the types of things that go through my head on any project regardless of major/minor. ROI and CBA are engrained in my blood at this point and something that I cannot get away from.

One thing to remember is that "Universal Cats" are not 50-State compliant. If you are truly looking for 50-State compliant, meaning California CARB compliant, then you will need to get a CARB certified CaT which is about 2x the price of the universal. Just an FYI when looking at that kinda stuff.
 
MANUCHAO said:
Aluminum Radiators & Electrolysis

EDIT: if you go with a mech fan and you build your own fiberglass or alum shroud read up on how far/close it should be from the fan blades.. this also makes a huge difference.. again, key is to mimic stock set up.....

:beer:
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On this, look in my spreadsheet as there is a Summit Racing "Build a Shroud" kit that a couple guys have used and done great with. When ever I get to the point of doing an Vortec/LS/LT swap into my truck I will go this way to save myself some time and headache. Nice to have all the parts there, just play LEGOS and build something with the supplied piece..... SPACESHIP!!!!(Lego Movie reference!)
 
gregnash said:
One thing to remember is that "Universal Cats" are not 50-State compliant. If you are truly looking for 50-State compliant, meaning California CARB compliant, then you will need to get a CARB certified CaT which is about 2x the price of the universal. Just an FYI when looking at that kinda stuff.
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Reuse the cats that came with the engine (saw those on the pic posted) these are/should be OEM and 50 state legal..
 
Grumpyhead12 said:
I would really like to see the innards of the 62 fuel tank and pump as I am even farther way from my Cruiser than you are. I have to return, figure out the pump situation and get on the road to my Uncle's shop in Colorado where the swap is being performed all within 10 days or so.
David
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David, we'll make sure to document the teardown of the stock pump rebuild with the GM pump. Dakota plans to do this using the stock housing and parts from the OEM repair kit. Expect some good pics as he goes along; he should be able to get to that in the next week or two. If it works, I think it will be brilliant; if it doesn't work, there are tons of simpler fall-back options. At the price, we can afford to experiment (once).

Regarding the cats, we JUST had that discussion to use the stock cats that are still on the engine. So far, we've gotten pretty lucky with that purchase and are getting some bonuses out of it. So, no need to spend even $120 for a new pair... ;)

Thanks for the info on the radiators, shrouds, etc; it seems that every build has done something slightly different with the radiators, shrouds, and fans and most seem to have a diehard opinion one way or the other. I would prefer to save the money and see if we can salvage the original but I'm going to consider all options and what is best for my intended use. Fortunately I don't have to make this decision right away and will continue to research and solicit input.

Thanks again for following along and your inputs! The TC rebuild kit should be in any day, the Lokar is here, and I'm ordering the fuel system components tonight. There's a backorder on a part in the AA adapter kit so it's expected to ship first week of April.

If anyone is following this for ideas on your own build and want more details on specific components as we go forward, please let us know.
 
Slowly picking up steam... Ordered a wiring harness from Howell tonight (I'm 12 hours ahead of the east coast so it's night here) and got all of the fuel components from Summit. Wix 33737 filter/regulator, Summit PTFE S/S hose, Russell fittings. While waiting for the AA adapter to come in in a couple of weeks, Dakota will be rebuilding the transfer case, cleaning/prepping the frame, engine bay, and undercarriage, and prepping the fuel system. I can't wait to see how his modification of the stock fuel pump assembly to accept the motor from the stock GM fuel pump works out!
 
Grumpyhead12 said:
Anything new to report?
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Not too much. Fuel system parts arrived Friday, and the transfer case rebuild kit arrived Monday. AA adapter kit should arrive today. Biggest news is that I ordered the Howell harness and went ahead and got the OME deluxe suspension kit so we can install that prior to trying to fit the driveline in. I was going to get it anyway, and since the ride height can affect how the driveline sits we decided to go ahead and put it on. Those parts come in this week and next week from Man-a-Fre.

Dakota is planning to get on the frame/engine bay prep and rebuild the transfer case this weekend. We might be able to do the first "fitting" sometime next week!

@Grumpyhead12, how are things coming with you?
 
Dozer18 said:
Not too much. Fuel system parts arrived Friday, and the transfer case rebuild kit arrived Monday. AA adapter kit should arrive today. Biggest news is that I ordered the Howell harness and went ahead and got the OME deluxe suspension kit so we can install that prior to trying to fit the driveline in. I was going to get it anyway, and since the ride height can affect how the driveline sits we decided to go ahead and put it on. Those parts come in this week and next week from Man-a-Fre.

Dakota is planning to get on the frame/engine bay prep and rebuild the transfer case this weekend. We might be able to do the first "fitting" sometime next week!
l
@Grumpyhead12, how are things coming with you?
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I pick up the engine, trans, radiator from Pacific Fabrication the first week of May and haul it all to my Uncle's shop in Colorado for the surgery.
By then I hope to hear some good word about your fuel pump deal and I will be back home for two weeks prior to the build so I can pull my current set up from the tank and get an idea how to modify it.
David
 
Grumpyhead12 said:
I pick up the engine, trans, radiator from Pacific Fabrication the first week of May and haul it all to my Uncle's shop in Colorado for the surgery.
By then I hope to hear some good word about your fuel pump deal and I will be back home for two weeks prior to the build so I can pull my current set up from the tank and get an idea how to modify it.
David
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Heard good things about Pacific Fab and talked with them some one their conversions. Seems like their standalone harnesses are well-made and they have done more than a few 60 vortec conversions in the past (though they are more of an "offroad" shop). They even sent me picks of a recent conversion they had done (this was probably a year ago now) that used all their stuff. Look at their oilpan setup if you are not planning on running an H3 pan.
 
gregnash said:
Heard good things about Pacific Fab and talked with them some one their conversions. Seems like their standalone harnesses are well-made and they have done more than a few 60 vortec conversions in the past (though they are more of an "offroad" shop). They even sent me picks of a recent conversion they had done (this was probably a year ago now) that used all their stuff. Look at their oilpan setup if you are not planning on running an H3 pan.
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Ha, that's funny because that's just the oilpan I'm getting. I am also having them make me a radiator with two electric fans attached. I am not nearly as talented as Cam and some others so PacFab's harness already attached to the engine is for me.
David
 
Grumpyhead12 said:
I pick up the engine, trans, radiator from Pacific Fabrication the first week of May and haul it all to my Uncle's shop in Colorado for the surgery.
By then I hope to hear some good word about your fuel pump deal and I will be back home for two weeks prior to the build so I can pull my current set up from the tank and get an idea how to modify it.
David
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We should be able to get a report of the fuel system mod up soon, hopefully by mid-April for your reference. Would love to hear about that radiator you're getting from Pacific Fab; thinking a lot about how I'm going to run mine. I ordered my harness with connections for a dual fan without knowing exactly what I'm going to do. Was looking at using a Champion radiator with the Derale modulated (PWM, they call it?) dual fan setup but that kit is about $700.
 
Dozer18 said:
We should be able to get a report of the fuel system mod up soon, hopefully by mid-April for your reference. Would love to hear about that radiator you're getting from Pacific Fab; thinking a lot about how I'm going to run mine. I ordered my harness with connections for a dual fan without knowing exactly what I'm going to do. Was looking at using a Champion radiator with the Derale modulated (PWM, they call it?) dual fan setup but that kit is about $700.
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I went back and forth, all over the place from Griffin LS radiator to stock, aluminum, brass and mechanical fan or electric. The deciding factor for me was that PF has done the Cruiser swap, is close enough to home if something failed and the price point was competitive. I got the fill neck and upper hose connection location swapped, dual fans and a steam port added.
There are too many choices and I went with the simplest for me.
David
 
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Wanted to see if everyone swapping to the 5.3 have been changing the rear main seal plate while the motor and tranny is out of the vehicle. We do a lot of the at the shop. They usually start leaking around 150,000 or so.

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