Door locking gremlins and electrical connectors

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

This in the DS kick panel, main harness to door harness. I have both on my 95, but replacing the main harness is a major undertaking. Connector BJ1.
 
Sorry... I just got distracted. I'm at the Land Cruiser Heritage museum.

14866900364381236340765.webp
 
I can't find the number...

14866901779491009133333.webp
 
Yikes on the connectors! You may have a PO who had issues for sure.

The black box you pic'd was a old DEI alarm piece - 86 that for sure.

As for the connector plugs & crash repair terminals, the Shaman sold me quite a few over the yrs - I'd try & find a parts 80 you can clip the connector & 5-8" of wire, solder & heatshrink the union & it's stout. If you want to get fancy (& idiot resistant) - stagger the unions (take more of the donor harness) -doing it will reduce a "burl" in the harness 'trunk'.

GL - you got a few hrs of wiring ahead of you!

-At least you found the issues now though, you were headed for being left stranded or worse by the looks of it.
 
Dan's not here. We're here for a club meeting.
 
I'll look. If I can't find it I can ask tomorrow what the girl at the dealership ordered.
 
OK. I've got it cleaned off but there is no part number on this male connector. Either it never had one or it happens to be burned off. One whole side and the clip are burned. I'll see if I can get it tomorrow.
 
Dang. I misstated which one it is. It's the BJ2 Connector with 6 wires. Not the BJ1 with...A lot more. 18 I think.
 
Well, I'm back at this finally. I have given up on NOT splicing in a new connector and I harvested connectors from my 95. In cutting back the wires I found 3 that were burned or corroded. No continuity at all. I'd really rather not pull wires through the door if I don't have to, so I broke out an old household trick. I went out for a burger and fries. I got extra ketchup packets and put them on the tarnished wires for about 30 minutes. When I cleaned them up with a scotch brite pad I now have 0 resistance. Bingo.

20170221_170249.webp


20170221_170414.webp


20170222_125746.webp
 
Alright, I'm still in need of help. I got the alarm pulled out, cleaned up the splices, cleaned up corroded wires, cut the connectors off my donor vehicle and soldered them in, used marine grade shrink tubing on all my splices, reconnected everything....And my door unlock button, my clock, and my lights by the rearview mirror still don't work.

I can lock the doors, the key works properly, the safety lockout prevention works fine. I just can't let anyone out, tell them how long they've been trapped in my car, or offer enough light to see my face. This is a perfect scenario for something, I just can't put my finger on it...
 
For future reference Toyota uses a number of Sumitomo MT 090 Connectors of which that looks to be of the 8 position unsealed variety with two empty pins. One side would run around 4-5 bucks with a full set of pins, there's a handful of sources around but they're not nearly as common as Delphi style connectors. Pins are crimped with an open barrel style crimper (if the description is that it's a Metripak style crimper then you're looking at the right tool) so nothing exotic on the tool front.
 
GarageRat said:
For future reference Toyota uses a number of Sumitomo MT 090 Connectors of which that looks to be of the 8 position unsealed variety with two empty pins. One side would run around 4-5 bucks with a full set of pins, there's a handful of sources around but they're not nearly as common as Delphi style connectors. Pins are crimped with an open barrel style crimper (if the description is that it's a Metripak style crimper then you're looking at the right tool) so nothing exotic on the tool front.
Click to expand...

Thank you! That is tremendously helpful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom