Don't trust you're oil sender!

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You could just T it off. Put the factory one on one side of the T, then another aftermarket one on the other side.

It might take some creative engineering and all, but at least that way you could have both.

Anyone know the thread size and pitch of the t fitting needed to branch off the oil cooler housing, where the oem oil pressure sending unit is located on my cruisers' 1zfe engine.

CRUISER TIME
 
Sorry I was thinking it was the other number. Still though is 30 pounds a lot? If the fsm said 4.3 pounds and more well what exactly is more ? I don't like how Toyota just leaves it up in the air. I wonder if the pressure relief springs are wearing out on the higher mileage trucks.

Generally speaking, with oil pressure, the higher the better.

30psi at idle (engine warm) is the sign of a healthy engine.

For those of you who want an oil pressure gauge inside the car, IMO it's a waste of time on ours. This is not a racecar, and I've built plenty of those. Spend your money on fuel instead.

Put a diagnostic pressure gauge in place on a cold engine. Inspect oil pressures. Drive til warm, inspect again. Then take it off and don't worry about it ever again.

Clean the terminals of your factory sender for good contact with the wires. Repair as necessary. That's all.
 
Replacing the oil pressure guage

The thread size of the factory sending unit is 1/8 British Standard Pipe Thread. It took 3 different tries with thread adapters and some good advice from Mud to find out. Even though my thread guage and tap matched a 28BPS thread, it would not hold oil.

Keep this in mind. The adapter can be purchased from McMaster Carr or Maryland Metrics. I am installing an Equus Electric Guage. I do not like aftermarket mechanical guages because if they burst or leak pressure you will not know until your engine siezes.
 
Generally speaking, with oil pressure, the higher the better.

30psi at idle (engine warm) is the sign of a healthy engine.

For those of you who want an oil pressure gauge inside the car, IMO it's a waste of time on ours. This is not a racecar, and I've built plenty of those. Spend your money on fuel instead.

Put a diagnostic pressure gauge in place on a cold engine. Inspect oil pressures. Drive til warm, inspect again. Then take it off and don't worry about it ever again.

Clean the terminals of your factory sender for good contact with the wires. Repair as necessary. That's all.






Do you think a slight leak in the oil pump cover gasket would cause a small loss in oil pressure? I have both right now and was wondering.









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The thread size of the factory sending unit is 1/8 British Standard Pipe Thread. It took 3 different tries with thread adapters and some good advice from Mud to find out. Even though my thread guage and tap matched a 28BPS thread, it would not hold oil.

Keep this in mind. The adapter can be purchased from McMaster Carr or Maryland Metrics. I am installing an Equus Electric Guage. I do not like aftermarket mechanical guages because if they burst or leak pressure you will not know until your engine siezes.

I have the same equus electric gauge, though its going in another vehicle.

Aftermarket oil pressure gauges for the BJ60's are common as the 3B often gets turbo'd and most of us run the oil feed for the turbo from the OEM sender port with a T, many of us put in another fitting or an X fitting so we have the stock sender, aftermarket and turbo oil feed.

One thing that should be mentioned, is that electric gauges with electric senders do have the benefit of not having to run an oil line from the engine into your dash panel vs. mechanical gauges, I have had a couple mechanical gauges and have never had a problem, but you can all imagine the mess a broken oil line running through your dash could make with 70psi of hot oil , and maybe while your at freeway speeds... :meh:

Anyways, if you run a mechanical just make sure that its protected from damage.
 
Is there a more accurate or higher quality sender for the 1FZ? I would like a more accurate reading if possible. I don't want to put an oil line into the cabin.
 
I installed two mech gauges inside the engine bay (directly in front of the main batt) for water temp and oil psi, just as a backup to the factory gauges. I rarely look at them but it's nice to have some real #s for diagnostic purposes. A simple brass T was used to add the mech oil pressure line to the oem oil press sender port.

Thread for oil sending port is 1/8" BSPT (more info in this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/741453-thread-size-fj80-oil-sender.html).
 
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Any trick to getting to the old switch? Can't picture how what needs to be disconnected from which part; and then assume the unit just unscrews from the motor?
 
Does anyone make an actual pressure gauge that can be mounted in the truck. Ive heard nothing but bad things about the gauge on the dash

I put an Auber gauge in mine for both oil pressure and trans temp. Retained the factory pressure sensor by relocating it to the firewall and Tee'd off adding the new sensor. That way my factory gauge works as usual but I can monitor digital readings (real time).

You needn't worry about oil pressure. I know the needle on the factory gauge looks really low, that is what prompted me to do mine in the first place, but there is plenty of pressure. I just finished checking mine a few minutes ago. After 10 minutes idling from start up I had 33 lbs. @ 800 rpm, engine at 188°F....94°F outside temp. It will climb to about 70 psi at highway speeds.

If you have proper oil LEVEL and decent filter....you can dispense with worrying about the oil 'pressure'.

Worry about more pressing things (like is your A/C working as it should)? Checked it also...while I was waiting for the engine to warm up.

Oil pressure.webp


AC temp.webp
 
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