fjc-man
SILVER Star
Does anyone have experience or thoughts about dobinson springs? If you want specifics I’m interested in HJ40-7L-F for the front and TOY-034-R for the rear. Thanks
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So that said, who’s springs do you like?Here's some leaf spring gee whiz information: When Downey was in business (1970-2009) no leaf springs were made in Australia, all Australian spring companies had their springs made in India (or area equivalency). Downey's leaf springs were first made by Toyota's spring manufacturer (NHK) in Japan. NHK sent their engineer's to Downey to develop the Downey springs. We discovered other than bending a piece of metal into the shape of a spring, there were then 9 different additional "features" that could improve the spring for longer life and smoother ride, each feature available at additional cost. Eventually NHK switched Downey's spring manufacturing down to their plant in India (presumably for economic reasons), and we then had to have India re-make a whole batch of Downey springs until they got the 9 features figured out (sad deal). Now, if the same situation still exist for Australian springs (OME, Dobinsons, etc), their spring quality depends upon how many features they paid for, i.e. one brand could be better than the other.
Unfortunately I'm out of that loop now days, can't recommend. At the time we closed Downey in 2009 Pro Comp was also using NHK, BUT I don't know if they were paying for all the features ???So that said, who’s springs do you like?
Dead wrong, shock valving has a lot to do with it, but so does the ride quality features that can be built into the spring- - -such as anti friction pads, graphite impregnating the spring steel, tapering the leafs, loose binding the binding clamps, and stress relieving the steel after shaping.Assuming you have a proper length spring and spring rate to maintain a ride height, your ride quality will be determined by the shocks, not the spring manufacturer.
Yes, you generally can not re-heat treat heat treated spring steel, sooooo the re-archers normally add-in a ridiculously stiff add-a-leaf to hold the re-arch.@Downey not to hijack this thread but you seem extremely well versed in leaf springs. I want to have the original leaf springs in my ‘3/76 re-arched and maintain stock ride height with fresh OEM shackles and pins. Do you have an opinion on re-arching? Thanks.
Better option?Yes, you generally can not re-heat treat heat treated spring steel, sooooo the re-archers normally add-in a ridiculously stiff add-a-leaf to hold the re-arch.
Thanks for this. I assume those springs are setup for stock ride height? Funny as I was guessing I was 1-2” low with sag I have currently. Here is how she sits currently with fresh re-arch and all new greasable shackles, pins, energy suspension bushings, u-bolts, etc from Kurt and the guys at Cruiser Outfitters.So I installed the 45mm Dobinsons springs and with 31s the front is 36” and the rear is 35” from the floor to the bottom of the fender opening.
I appreciate you refreshing a stock ride height. Although I, like much of this community, do like a 2.5" lift with 33's, I am a huge fan of the more original proportions of a 30 or 31" and stock springs and shackles. I'm still running original springs and shackles on 9.5x30's and the only thing I would change is to refresh it to bring back some of the as-new ride height as the 41 y/o springs have sagged a little, just as you have done. I am, along with my family and dog, a forest service road explorer, not a rock crawler, and the original proportions just work so well.Thanks for this. I assume those springs are setup for stock ride height? Funny as I was guessing I was 1-2” low with sag I have currently. Here is how she sits currently with fresh re-arch and all new greasable shackles, pins, energy suspension bushings, u-bolts, etc from Kurt and the guys at Cruiser Outfitters.
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