DISC BRAKE Front info

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Joined
May 22, 2003
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can we assemble a brake sticky, or page to post in the tech section, so all the info can be gathered in one thread or writeup?


Specifically what i need which calipers and rotors go together.

I know mini soild axle calipers and rotors, and fj40 rotors and calipers, but when do IFS stuff, then the bigger runner calipers come in?

also the rotor changes through the yrs, and interchange? i remember a thread but did not find it. included pricing on the rotors in that thread i think also.

also noticed in the tech writeups they used 81+ fj40 rotors, what about fj60-62 they the same? and what about the 76-80 fj40 rotors, or was there a change?


Any bore diameter on master to run whatever setup would be great help!!!!!
i did search and came up with 7/8 or 15/16 bore for using the runner calipers.

13/16 of a 85 mini enough to do rear brakes with complete mini saf disc setup?


I have been collecting parts, now i need to do a buddies disc front.

2 complete ifs setups
1 mini saf
1 fj40
1 fj60

and people to talk to for more mini saf parts, and fj60 parts.
 
IFS mini-truck calipers need to be used with the thicker vented rotors. Those were found on late fj40's and all fj60's. There are also two sizes of calipers, smaller on the early 4cyl, and larger on the 6cyl and late 4cyl. The early calipers have two large pistons and two small (same for solid axle mini calipers). V6 calipers and late model 4cyl have four large calipers.

The early 4cyl calipers, be they solid axle or IFS need to use the 13/16" master cylinder. The 15/16" was used on 1988 and maybe 1989 V6 mini's (larger calipers). Around 1990 Toyota went with a 1" master cylinder on the larger calipers. I don't know when the 4cyl and V6 trucks received the same caliper.

So, on the Basketcase I'm running the larger calipers from a 1994 mini, vented rotors from a FJ60, and will use the 1" master cylinder from an FZJ80 that came with 4-wheel disks (I have disk in the back).
 
Any idea on your late fj40s if there is a change? I own 79s but i understand that there might be a rotor change somewhere in the 76-83 disc fj40 run?

i know the 13/16 bore is stock on the early SAF and ifs, but does it have enough volume to push the dual rear wheel cylinders compared to stock toy mini single? I got a good mini master here, but dont want to play with it if it doesnt work!

BTW i go pick up two more SAF setups tomorrow.

KITS if you have vasoline and $$$ to burn, toyota made factory kits just getting the right parts lined up is the key. OR upgrade your calipers and rotors for better braking.
 
is this the best (as in reliable, STOP on a dime regardless of tire size) setup ?

donor birfields from a 79-85 toyota 4x4 truck (does this change if you use bigger calipers/vented rotors)
larger calipers from a 1994 mini
vented rotors from a FJ60
1" master cylinder from an FZJ80
Monte carlo disks in the back
 
Yours sounds like my set up. Have yet to do the monte on the rear (have brkts)

79 FJ40 hubs, rotors, and birfs
95 4Runner calipers, booster, and 1" master cyl

First run the brakes worked GREAT!!!! Even with the drum rears.

Somwhere around 81 they changed to the newer rotors (mini and FJ60 have same bolt pattern for the rotors) You can use 60 rotors on mini hubs
 
Yoda said:
Somwhere around 81 they changed to the newer rotors (mini and FJ60 have same bolt pattern for the rotors) You can use 60 rotors on mini hubs

Yes, if you use the IFS mini calipers.
 
OK this is where i am confused,

there is a change in cruiser disc rotors, but quote above 81 and newer and ifs calipers
then just above that 79 rotors and 95 bigger IFS calipers. SO are the rotors the same?

damn if i can find that thread again with this rotor info already.
 
8/80+ fj40/60/62 rotors all the same

8/75-7/80 same

on my 45 I am running I recall.......mini birfs, IFS calipers and 8/80+ rotors
 
My 79 uses the "old" style mounting holes on the rotor. The rotor is the same diameter and thickness, only diff is the mount holes.

Old style mounts with 6 bolts, new style mounts with the wheel studs pressed through both the hub and rotor and 2 screws (also known as 8 hole rotor).
 
one other question to chime in on this thread...I think that the steering arms are different taper on the minitruck versus the drum brake tie rod ends, correct? Can you put a shim on them? Looking to gather the final misc. parts for my drum to disc conversion...

thanks,
brian
 
Blkdog
"is this the best (as in reliable, STOP on a dime regardless of tire size) setup ?"
I am not really looking for this but nice to get this info, I just have a (ever growing) pile of stuff
I am trying to sort out. Now i know i have only one rotor and one caliper for the fj60 stuff i have, so by finding out this info i can mount up some late runner calipers and have better braking then the stock fj60 calipers, then I will do it.

BTW my stock brakes on my 79 locks them up just as good or better then anything I have ever driven.

ANY idea when what tire size over takes the stock brakes? disc front setup.

Thanks for the rotor info,

Stud length difference between the early disc and later disc?
OR " " the mini and later cruiser disc?
I apoligize I pulled whole axles or knuckle out on the ones i have, never broke
into them to note a stud or mounting change between all the ones i have.

BK this one i can help on!

79 (i think is the first yr) later cruisers have big bolt pattern (BBP) like wise with fj60 up and mini truck. BBP good for aftermarket high steer if needed.

THEY all have the same taper 1.5" per ft, but the HOLE size is different.

fj40 have small hole (pretty sure they are all the same), fj60 and mini truck have a bigger hole BUT one has a slightly bigger hole (or was it a longer tapered shank on the rod end?) then the other which if miss matchin fj60 and mini you might have to use washers to tighten the tierod ends down. (i cannot remember which is bigger mini or 60, dont feel like looking through the pile to figure it out again)> someone else?

I run welded double arm which the draglink is fj40, ends are mini and tierod is a mini. I got the arm cheap and it was done already is the only reason i run the fj40 end. SO while i was doing this i ran through my pile of tierods and arms to get a good match.

I have not a clue on 55 stuff?

there was a thread i posted in a while back about this same stuff, it should have the information i cannot remeber right now.
 
yeah, the reason I was asking "is this the best setup" is I too want a list to start gathering the 'best' parts to do the disk brake conversion.
I have a '70 FJ40 (single circuit). So far, all I have to do the disk conversion is an old crusty '75 master cylinder/ brake booster I got off ebay that I think I wont use now. Rather than rebuiding that old crusty stuff I'm going to go for the long term reliability of a new FZJ80 master.
 
WILL early model vented cruiser rotors pre 8/80 mentioned above, work on later hubs cruiser or mini.

Please help, I do not want to go out and rip apart outers just to see myself.

Also need the stud difference if any answer from above?
 
I think i might just run to a local place see if they have both style rotors and compare, YEAH if any local places have just one style i will crap myself. LMAO I really dont feel like taken my stuff apart.

I will do the same with the studs. which this one might be an easy one.

DD113 I do not reccomend none self adjusting 4 wheel drum brakes to anyone, unless you know how to take care of them. 4 drum are alright on a light vehicle.
What I got my buddys cruiser has full of fluid master that seems not to have any fluid coming out of it, a wheel that sits about 5 degrees cocked like a super F up wheel bearing and i assume that spindle is toasted. Its going to be a winter truck to a second daily, and belongs to someone that if i were beting has never adjusted a drum brake in his life! lol binks if he sees this. SO my replacment of things is just as easy to do the disc swap and get the maintainance crap out of the way.
 
HI^C,

The early rotor will bolt on to the later hub if the holes are machined a bit for the later studs. The hole size may be crucial as the studs are press fit into the rotor. I don't know off the top of my head what the hole diameter should be, but if you really need it I can go and measure.

The later studs are longer as they go through the hub and the rotor, the early stud goes through the rotor only.

Dave
 
LOL,

beanz no need to mearsure just yet, still thinking.

What about mini hubs and mini stud lengths? just another little twist.
someone that has done the vented rotor swap on mini setup, did you use the mini studs? any idea if the the mini studs are same a later 81ish studs?

I will make some calls see if i can round up some of this info.
 
Mini hubs should be identical to cruiser hubs, same year break downs: 79-80 = 76-80 cruiser. 81-85 = 81-90 cruiser.

Stud length is a bit of a mystery to me, once I asked for an 85 minitruck stud at the parts store and got something a lot shorter than the cruiser one. I showed the parts guy what I needed, he then looked up his books and got the right length.

The stud length is not affected by the vented/non-vented rotor. Same thickness where the studs go through.

Dave
 
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