Diff armour

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8 inch cap for the front.

10 inch for the rear.

Cut in half, cut the rim back a bit and weld on. It's way more metal than you need since it's like 1/2 inch thick, but works really well for not too much $$.

Make sure it's a weldable pipe cap. Most plumbing supply can get them.
 
8 inch cap for the front.

10 inch for the rear.

Cut in half, cut the rim back a bit and weld on. It's way more metal than you need since it's like 1/2 inch thick, but works really well for not too much $$.

Make sure it's a weldable pipe cap. Most plumbing supply can get them.

Ditto what Drew said. Make sure to get a high pressure weld on pipe cap; some people call them fire hydrant line pipe cap. Mine is made of 1/4" thickness. Usually an industrial plumbing supply house stock them. Small plumbing shops that deal with toilets and irrigation stuff may not carry them.

One pipe cap will do two 80 series so get in with a buddy and split the cost and labor!
 
I just bought the large trail gear cover for the front. The pipe caps can get expensive. It was cheaper for me to go with the TG cover for the front. Seems like i have to trim down the fill plug access hole on the cover for the rest of the cover to fit flush for me to weld it on.

I think the rear cover could use the smaller version strap version. Booger weldz mentioned that the rear sway bar will help protect the diff.
 
I haven't installed mine yet. Gonna install it when I redo the front axle. The bastard is beefy. Kind of overkill, but oh well. I wonder how chrome spray paint will come out.
 
For the front: Full Face Differential Armor | Marlin Crawler, Inc. or you can fab your own ring gear protection and install it with a Oxy/Acetylene torch, hammer and a welder.

I'm not a fan of TG regardless of price.

If you're smashing the rear diff there are other issues at play.
 
FYI: from this morning:

On Wed, Oct 5, 2011 at 1:53 PM, Trail-Gear Technical Support <Tech@trail-gear.com> wrote:
No it will not work

From: me [mailto:****@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 11:43 AM
To: Trail-Gear Technical Support
Subject: 120006-1-K Diff Armor on Toyota Land Cruiser

Hi, I was just wondering if the Diff Armor, Large, $30, 120006-1-K would fit my 80 Series 1993 Toyota Landcruiser.

thanks!
 
Rwhat said:
Did you specify front or back? The good thing is the TG cover comes with 2 low profile drain plugs and gaskets.

I didn't specify. The low profile ones look ok, and the site specifically says they work on our trucks. Last wheeling trip I managed to crunch my drain plug, hoping it wont be difficult to fix.
 
I didn't specify. The low profile ones look ok, and the site specifically says they work on our trucks. Last wheeling trip I managed to crunch my drain plug, hoping it wont be difficult to fix.


Any 8"mini truck toyota cover will work on the front axle. However you have to take in consideration that Marlin's cover might be a pain to get a weld on the side near the control arm mount on the passenger side. Although the rest of that massive cover gets welded on.

For the rear cover you can buy 1/4 plate at home depot and cut it up and easily fab up some rear protection.
 
for the rear, I think a pinion guard would be more beneficial than a diff cover. Not too often you'll be backing into an obstacle at speeds, I don't think!
 
alia176 said:
for the rear, I think a pinion guard would be more beneficial than a diff cover. Not too often you'll be backing into an obstacle at speeds, I don't think!

Well, ya never know with some of the places I go! "Omg, hicks with guns, get out out REVERSE NOW! Gogogogoogo!!1!"

But ya I agree :)
 
...some people call them fire hydrant line pipe cap.
Be careful when asking for anything 'fire hydrant' as unless otherwise specified by an engineer or munincipality, main line force water line, fire hydrant line, and FDC line is all ductile iron, something that is not readily welded by the garage mechanic.Kinda geeked out on you guys there, but it would suck to get a bum steer and have to start over, or get another cap, or whatever.
 
Be careful when asking for anything 'fire hydrant' as unless otherwise specified by an engineer or munincipality, main line force water line, fire hydrant line, and FDC line is all ductile iron, something that is not readily welded by the garage mechanic.Kinda geeked out on you guys there, but it would suck to get a bum steer and have to start over, or get another cap, or whatever.


I've bought them as a "weldable" pipe cap, and have welded with no issues.
 
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