Diesel swap - 2L-T into 22R pick up

[Tin basher]

Yes the manual I have is different than that I will throw it in my truck tonite
basically the cam Is the only difference shows it at 3 oclock instead of 6 ask for Bruce

 

[Fantom]

Yes the manual I have is different than that I will throw it in my truck tonite
basically the cam Is the only difference shows it at 3 oclock instead of 6 ask for Bruce

Thanks Bruce, I'll be free after 4 and head over there.

 

[Fantom]

The "non-project, project truck" continues....
Well I have not had any time to actually work on the engine, so there are no updates there. I did just order a couple things for it though.
I got the old turbo from the previous owner (the one that was blown and leaking oil everywhere), which was the factory CT20. It is in pretty bad condition and the propeller shaft moves a lot so a full rebuild would be required - not worth it and would cost around $150 for the rebuild kit.
The existing turbo on the engine is, as mentioned, a CT20 knock off from China, and the shaft moves a little on it, more than I am comfortable with. It also did not perform very well when it was running. Now after the countless research and re-educating I just went through about turbos, the CT20 has issues. It restricts a lot of flow through the turbine and causes an increase in backpressure and an increase in EGTs because of that.
The specs on the CT20 are rare to find, the best one I was able to locate is this:
http://www.ehow.com/list_7280253_ct20-turbo-specifications.html
With an AR of .35 on the tubine and an AR of .36 on the compressor. Also, in accordance to several threads, including this one:
http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=15826
during which the guy did a lot of work to one, it is a very restricted housing. After more research and harassing our resident turbo expert - John Voo from ATEB - who is awesome, Thank you!! I've found a suitable replacement which will perform much better.
The new turbo is a T3 housing (so a slight adaptor plate will be needed) with an AR of .42 on the turbine and an AR of .60 on the compressor. Also the T3 housing is a bit bigger and flows better. With the AR of .42 it will still spool quickly and offer low RPM boost. I could have gone for the next model up (AR .48) but I'm not planning on needing that.
Combined with an intercooler kit, the entire thing costs less than a rebuild from most shops and will be better. Got the stuff from here:
http://www.cxracing.com/
John has been running their turbo on his rig for about 2 years and has not had any issues. Should be interesting....
Turbo
Intercooler Kit - now I know the kit comes with a blow off valve , that is not going on the truck since it isn't required for this low RPM engine.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Looking good Mat! Deffinantly talking to the right guy about turboes for the 2LT. We used that same turbo (but a Garrett) on Gavins 2H worked great 15psi at 1500rpm and about 7-8psi at hwy cruise.

Intercooler is a very good idea and that one looks well sized to the engine.

Im looking forward to see how the "non project truck" comes together.

 

[Fantom]

Well this is just getting better and better.
I finally had a chance to remove the crankshaft (which requires the removal of the oil pump housing (which is the entire front of the engine pretty much) and in turn also the fuel pump as well. So now I am down to pretty much just the block and the head
The good news, the cylinder bores (from underneath) look good and are not scored, all of the bearings (which they really are not, they are just shims) for the crank and pisons are looking good and have no unusual wear. Yeay
The bad news...
The crankshaft has a gear set pressed on it at the factory that drives the oil pump, not removable by any easy means. The teeth on it are half worn through. The female end of it on the oil pump is in good condition, just the gears on the crankshaft are worn. There also is a fair amount of play between the gear and the shaft, as pictured.

 

[Fantom]

The surface where the front seal rides is also heavily worn, I am thinking this was a high kilometer motor. Now the pistons look new (from underneath) and since the head was rebuilt it all likely has been rebuilt but most rebuilds don't replace a crankshaft unless they absolutely have to, before the pulley loosened off I am guessing it was in better condition.

 

[Fantom]

And now....bad news number 2....well maybe....

I found 2 cracks in the block, both are in the same spots, one on cylinder 2 one on cylinder 4 (4 is worse). They are both located on the underside, at the end of the cylinder chamber, on the thin part of the wall. At first I freaked out but after looking closely there isn't anything serious there. It is far enough away from the compression chamber that it does not affect it. It is not cracking the wall of the chamber, if it did, it wouldn't travel that far as to make a difference because the material gets much thicker soon after. There are no cooling chambers that I can see there, or anything else - granted I can't see inside so there might be something.
I haven't decided what to do about this and how to apporach it, if it is even worth it. I'll have to ask John if he knows if there is anything close by that will require attention.
I did remove the block heater that was in the back frost plug (35mm in size) and found it coated with old oil. Now when the guys at Surrey Radiator (good guys) check the rad for me they also found som oil on the bottom. So I am guessing this was from the time the head went and it was rebuilt.
Does anyone know how long old oil stays in the system? clinging to parts or the bottom of a rad? I've rebuilt blown engines before, usually heads and gasktes, but haven't really looked deeper to see if the oil got stuck some where in the coolant, and certainly haven't taken them apart, years after to see if anything was still there. They always ran fine so I left it alone.

 

[Fantom]

And a couple more.

By the way, zapstraps are always your friend. They keep the pistons from sliding around and hitting things.

 

[Fantom]

So now I am looking for a new crank for the engine. The gear pulley that is pressed on the crank might be removable but it is a friction fit so they must have heated it up and cooled the crank to install it since there is no keyway or other features keeping it inline. There are also no spaces to use a puller so if it has to go I would need to use a lath and shave it off. But since Toyota does not have a part number for that piece alone, I'm not going to be able to find one anyways. I've found 2 used crankshafts in Australia, one has surface rust, the other looks good. Just waiting to hear back about them. If anyone else knows of a crankshaft for a 2L or 2LT, let me know.
Thanks!

 

[AJAEbj42]

Did you try Radd? they might have something lying around over there gathering dust...

 

[BCR4619]

Those cracks look worse in person. I should know by tomorrow sometime on a price for a 2 LT crank, if even available anymore

Had a fun afternoon none the less!

 

[Fantom]

I'll call them tomorrow...since it's Sunday
Glad you showed up (next time don't wear white, and if you do I will put you to work ), and yes, they do look worse in person, a little deeper.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Those cracks although not in a critical area are still worrying. Is that engine sleeved? It looks like one of the sleeves if in fact it is sleeved is cracked too. I would talk to John since he seems to be the authority on the 2LT see what he thinks. A crack is still a crack though and they happen for a reason usually.

The pimp gear looks just like the one on 2H engines that i have seen worn out in the past. Would be cool if you could machine off the 2LT one and press on the 2H (if the bump drive is the same size). Wishful thinking I'm sure.

On the bright side its always good to find these issues on your own terms than on the trails somewhere. I know I was glad I dug into mine once I got into it.

Good luck!

 

[Fantom]

I threw it up on the diesel section as well to see if someone has come across that, Vince was kind enough to respond. It's weird, the factory engine doesn't have sleeves (like the 3B) and this one almost looks like the two cracked chambers might have been over machined and a sleeve inserted (which is possible is there was damage that was too big for over sized pistons), but the bottom edge is kind of rough and the "rim" that is visible is not 100% concentric to the hole. So I can't tell with certainty if it is a sleeve or not. The other 2 look even on the bottom so those are factory. If it is sleeved it would make more sense, it cracked at the weakest part, likely when the sleeve was inserted or shortly after. If that is the case, I don't think it will spread further because the casting gets thicker shortly after. But I might have to haul it up on a the flat deck and drive it to a machine shop for inspection.
As for the oil gear on the crankshaft, it wouldn't surprise me if it was the same as the 2H and many others for that matter. I still face the same issue of being able to pull it off a different crank, there is nothing to grab onto. This was not meant to be an easily replaceable part.
Thanks

 

[sailor]

Man that sucks to have a bunch of challenges thrown up like that- my sympathies.


edit- does this mean you are going to give me a bunch of sh*t and abuse for derailing your thread?

 

[Fantom]

The shiny stuff has arrived!



The turbo has substantially larger turbines but the housing is only a little bigger. Should breathe much better.



The intercooler is nice, it is MIG welded aluminum, so it looks less pretty but it will work well. And the size is just right.



And for $19 more I got a boost "controller". I've made them myself before but for that price it wasn't worth doing it again. We'll see how it runs because I may just run it open.

 

[Mud_Guppie]

you should have starting this project/not project a bit sooner
we sold a complete 2.4LT with trans/tcase a few months ago. I come across the set ups quite often because people pull the out for other diesels or bigger gas motors
I checked stock yesterday and have the following parts here
full gasket kit with head bolts
recently rebuilt alt with pump
recently machined cam with gear
used injection pump with gear
used oil cooler
used pulleys with bits of brackets
used injection lines
a few bags of misc bolts
and that's it right now
We do lots of service work on these motors and ususally have belts, idlers, waterpumps etc on the shelves
I've asked 3 different customers that have spare motors and parts and none of them have a good crank
I'll keep looking
I have a used 2LT coming in shortly. It has no history with it and has a possible head gasket issue

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I was thinking last night all the people that bitch about this engine and have head issues there has got to be some engines with blown heads kicking around. Glad to hear there is a new crank if all else fails.

 

[Fantom]

Thanks Steve, I will pop by soon and dig through the stash, I think I might need a couple of things. Do let me know if you come across a crankshaft. Christian talked to one of the other MUD members that brings stuff in from Japan, a new one is $800 ... and considering the amount of steel it is and the precision of the machining, it is a good price, but I really don't want to spend that much on this damn project that was supposed to be a simple swap.
Never mind the fact that now I have to find out if those little cracks in the block are going to be an issue.

 

[Enigma]

Stop the bleeding now and put a 3B in it?