- Thread starter
- #21
Thank you Graham, you have just volunteered your services for the soon to come tech day.
Diesel swap - 2L-T into 22R pick up
- Thread starter Fantom
- Start date
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Hey no prob as long as there is beer......
i'v got a garage.... and we can paint it too now!!!!... what do you say Matt... christine blue? with matching blue valve cover,,,
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Cool, At least I'll be swazzled then, dunno about you guys...
- Joined
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Yep, one will do that to you. Guess I'd better bring my own.
- Thread starter
- #27
OK, so the donor truck will be getting gutted this weekend and I'm starting the list of things to prep for the swap.
Since the transmission is a mystery I'll burn that bridge when I get there.
I possibly need a new injector or seal for one, it's weeping a little diesel. Does anyone have one kicking around? (I know, ask John)
Going to check the clutch and pray I don't have the stupid flywheel that has springs - don't ask. From what I heard, the 22R clutch is a bolt on, this will be tested out.
Going to need a new exhaust, this time I'm bending my own - I've been ripped off too many times.
Changing over to electric fans for the radiator, not entirely thrilled about it but I'll try it out. The reason for this is that the shroud is missing, and making one for the engien fan will take me too long, so it will be easier and quicker to make a bracket setup for an electric fan.
I have a volvo intercooler, might be able to make it work easily or just hold off for now.
New belts, including the timing belt.
That's the start of the list. I'll let you guys know about the possible schedule and see if you're interested in a tech day.
Since the transmission is a mystery I'll burn that bridge when I get there.
I possibly need a new injector or seal for one, it's weeping a little diesel. Does anyone have one kicking around? (I know, ask John)
Going to check the clutch and pray I don't have the stupid flywheel that has springs - don't ask. From what I heard, the 22R clutch is a bolt on, this will be tested out.
Going to need a new exhaust, this time I'm bending my own - I've been ripped off too many times.
Changing over to electric fans for the radiator, not entirely thrilled about it but I'll try it out. The reason for this is that the shroud is missing, and making one for the engien fan will take me too long, so it will be easier and quicker to make a bracket setup for an electric fan.
I have a volvo intercooler, might be able to make it work easily or just hold off for now.
New belts, including the timing belt.
That's the start of the list. I'll let you guys know about the possible schedule and see if you're interested in a tech day.
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Don't know what size of piping you need for your intercooler but i have some 2" parts you are welcome to if you can use them.
There is some tubing, clamps, and silicone connectors in straights and 90*s.
Let me know and i will inventory it all for you.
Vince
There is some tubing, clamps, and silicone connectors in straights and 90*s.
Let me know and i will inventory it all for you.
Vince
- Thread starter
- #29
Cool, thanks Vince! Not sure if I will have the time to do when I am doing the swap, and the intercooler might not work with the layout of the truck. Going to check that when I have a minute.
This is also one of the reasons why I am looking at electric fans for the radiator, if I mount it closer to the engine I can fit the intercooler in between the cowl and the rad and then it's easier. If I don't have enough space then it requires cutting into the cowl and I think I will pass on that for now.
This is also one of the reasons why I am looking at electric fans for the radiator, if I mount it closer to the engine I can fit the intercooler in between the cowl and the rad and then it's easier. If I don't have enough space then it requires cutting into the cowl and I think I will pass on that for now.
What about doing a top mount cooler? Shorter piping, easier to layout and works OK if its got a well sealed hood scoop. Just a thought.
If you do go that way look for a old Ford SVO or Thunderbird Intercooler (off the old turbo coups), I have one and its should work well.
If you do go that way look for a old Ford SVO or Thunderbird Intercooler (off the old turbo coups), I have one and its should work well.
- Thread starter
- #31
Intercoolers, new thread.
Try to run the stock fan I'm finding the electric wont keep up
I'm running the Taurus two speed and it was over heating on low
And still have to watch it when climbing hills on high
As for the v6 trans don't know about them bolting to the diesel bell housing
But you need a adapter to run a gear driven case on them
I'm running the Taurus two speed and it was over heating on low
And still have to watch it when climbing hills on high
As for the v6 trans don't know about them bolting to the diesel bell housing
But you need a adapter to run a gear driven case on them
- Thread starter
- #33
Hmm, well that sucks a bit. I was thinking more and more about electric fans, especially since the donor truck doesn't have a fan guard so the fan is already doing half of what it's supposed to.
I'll be pulling the engine Sunday (tomorrow) morning, I'll be finding out what's going on hopefully.
Worst case I'll make a new shroud for the fan, but that means I can't put the intercooler in front of the radiator but behind the cowl.....life is full of comprimises....
I'll be pulling the engine Sunday (tomorrow) morning, I'll be finding out what's going on hopefully.
Worst case I'll make a new shroud for the fan, but that means I can't put the intercooler in front of the radiator but behind the cowl.....life is full of comprimises....
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- Thread starter
- #34
So today was the day where the donor got stripped. Big thanks to Sopel, Robert C. and Kris W. (she drives a Jeep but is very nice).
Everything went fairly well, took about 3.5 hours to rip it out and strip all the goodies off the truck.
Biggest and dumbest problem was the front cowl, which is not held in place with bolts, the way a logical person would have done it, no, it was spot welded to the wheel wells, which are spot welded to the inner fender frames and other things. This stupid design resulted on having to cut the cowl off in a spot to facilitate removing the transmission/engine combo.
At last, it came out. So I figured this is a good time to do the following:
Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, oil pan gasket, front crank seal, clutch, maybe rear seal, other belts and any obvious things like that.
The clutch was surprisingly good, over 80%, the transmission, as it turns out, is a W56 A, from a 4 cylinder, and appeared to be good but I'll keep my existing one in the truck.
Then I went and looked at timing belt and this is where I noticed the big problem.
Crank pulley....
Keyway....
And the crank.....crap! At some point it must have come loose and ate the metal bits.
Now this is where I could look for another crank....yea, that'll be easy...and then have to basically rebuild the bottom end, because if I do that I have to replace bearings, etc, etc. everything is tight so I'm not in the mood for that.
I think I will weld it and machine it down to the right shape.
Otherwise, everything else is good.
Everything went fairly well, took about 3.5 hours to rip it out and strip all the goodies off the truck.
Biggest and dumbest problem was the front cowl, which is not held in place with bolts, the way a logical person would have done it, no, it was spot welded to the wheel wells, which are spot welded to the inner fender frames and other things. This stupid design resulted on having to cut the cowl off in a spot to facilitate removing the transmission/engine combo.
At last, it came out. So I figured this is a good time to do the following:
Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, oil pan gasket, front crank seal, clutch, maybe rear seal, other belts and any obvious things like that.
The clutch was surprisingly good, over 80%, the transmission, as it turns out, is a W56 A, from a 4 cylinder, and appeared to be good but I'll keep my existing one in the truck.
Then I went and looked at timing belt and this is where I noticed the big problem.
Crank pulley....
Keyway....
And the crank.....crap! At some point it must have come loose and ate the metal bits.
Now this is where I could look for another crank....yea, that'll be easy...and then have to basically rebuild the bottom end, because if I do that I have to replace bearings, etc, etc. everything is tight so I'm not in the mood for that.
I think I will weld it and machine it down to the right shape.
Otherwise, everything else is good.
- Thread starter
- #35
And I see the stupid app is still flipping pics the wrong way, I'll fix that tomorrow.
Nice, too ad I couldn't stay longer and help... Atleast I was able to move the hood the 5' lol
Sucks about that crank, look forward to seeing the fix! Im surprised the key on the Toyota Diesels are not larger. The one on my Isuzu was damn near 5/8th wide. Really hope you can get it fixed up and reliable.
- Thread starter
- #38
I was not impressed when I saw that, considering that the rest of the engine looks great. Someone must have done something big to this, the entire block is painted blue, but all the additional parts that are bolted to it have no overspray, so it means it was down to the block at one point. There is a small block heater on the side of it that has some blue pain overspray so I know it wasn't factory blu paint.
Weird, once again, another mystery origins truck.
I'll be pulling off the oil pan this week to see what's going on in there.
Thanks for the visit Christian, ironically, it didn't rain at all.
As for the repair, the ideal patch for this would be to TIG weld it, slowly build up on the material, with the correct filler rod, then grind it down to the shape needed. Since I don't have a TIG I will MIG weld it (just going to confirm with my buddy as to wire type recommendations) and then grind it down.
I've done that type of patch before and it works perfectly fine, the weld is actually very strong. This was caused by a bolt coming loose, not an additional load on the motor, because the only load that area sees is the alternator, power steering, and water pump. So once it is fixed and tight it should never be an issue again. The hardest part is going to be matching the welded area to the original in size.
Weird, once again, another mystery origins truck.
I'll be pulling off the oil pan this week to see what's going on in there.
Thanks for the visit Christian, ironically, it didn't rain at all.
As for the repair, the ideal patch for this would be to TIG weld it, slowly build up on the material, with the correct filler rod, then grind it down to the shape needed. Since I don't have a TIG I will MIG weld it (just going to confirm with my buddy as to wire type recommendations) and then grind it down.
I've done that type of patch before and it works perfectly fine, the weld is actually very strong. This was caused by a bolt coming loose, not an additional load on the motor, because the only load that area sees is the alternator, power steering, and water pump. So once it is fixed and tight it should never be an issue again. The hardest part is going to be matching the welded area to the original in size.
- Thread starter
- #39
There is the heat plug, used to be painted like the block.
Yeah not a typical toyota industrial blue.
Sounds like you got the fix sorted out, should work. I have seen it done in the past, i have also seen engine where people have welded the damper to the crank :S. Glad to see you are doing it right.
Please replace the rear main seal, made that mistake in the past.
Sounds like you got the fix sorted out, should work. I have seen it done in the past, i have also seen engine where people have welded the damper to the crank :S. Glad to see you are doing it right.
Please replace the rear main seal, made that mistake in the past.