Diesel swap - 2L-T into 22R pick up

[Fantom]

Welding the pullet to the crank? WTF?! that is so wrong on every level, and sadly not surprising.
This week I'll be patching that up.
So far the shopping list for the engine is:
Exhaust gasket (taking the manifold off, putting in an EGT probe)
Thermostat
Water Pump
Belts, including timing
Front and rear seals for the crank
Oil filter
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gasket (doing the clearances on the valves)
Look into the clutch, this one is at 80% so might leave it depending on cost, and if it is the same as the 22R, I'll take my new one and use it there.
Need to repair the weeping injector.

Have to look into getting rid off the vaccum things on the engine, I don't think they are beneficial to anything. There are a couple pieces that go to the injector pump and the entire Air inlet setup. Will likely have to talk to John at ATEB to simplify the engine more. Hopefully I will not have any other surprises as I dig deeper.
Also, need to fabricate some new brackets for the alternator I think, somehow the dumba$$ that installed it in the donor truck had issues fitting the alternator so he ground down part of the engine mount bracket.....which I should remake as well, or might be able to use the ones off the 22R. Stupid people annoy me.
Everything will be looked over in detail since I am assuming that most of it was not done right to begin with.
Stay tuned for more....

 

[canucksafari]

Need to repair the weeping injector.

Have to look into getting rid off the vaccum things on the engine, I don't think they are beneficial to anything. There are a couple pieces that go to the injector pump and the entire Air inlet setup.

Injector may just not be torqued properly or they reused the crush washers when they were out before. It wouldn't hurt to just replace the crush washers on that one. You'll also get a look at the condition of the injector which will give you an indication about the condition of the other injectors.

Extra vacuum lines are likely for an EGR. If so. Block them off and do a blocking plate on the exhaust and intake manifolds. Before you block off the intake manifold, run your finger inside. If it is heavily sooted, you might want to pull it off and give it a good cleaning. I know on some TD4.2s that were fitted with the EGR, they really did foul the intake manifold. It is an easy job to clean and only the cost of the gasket.

 

[Fantom]

First part, keyway, haven't found a metric one (granted I didn't look too hard) but have an imperial one that is close, and will be closer with some filing.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Man I can not belive how worn that key is, was the balancer badly damaged too?

 

[Fantom]

The pulley, I say that because it is just a pulley by all appearance since there is no rubber or any other flexible parts to it, is fine. Actually it is very fine, there is no damage to the inside at all. The crankshaft took all the abuse (which is worse). Unless, the previous dumba$$ replaced the pulley with a new one but left the same keyway in there.....stupidity knows no bounds.
I'll be posting up good, detailed picks of the crank when I tear into it, this repair is not common but some times it is necessary so I hope it come in handy for anyone in a similar situation.
I have a couple crazy ideas for the repair, I think I will shape some copper plate I have to match the keyway, clamp that down to the shaft and then weld the "worn out" section. It will limit the amount of machining I have to do later.

 

[Tin basher]

There has been two 2l on craigs list for a while might help for the crank
Or you could use green lock tite and just put it together
But you will need a torch to heat it if you ever need to remove it

 

[Fantom]

I don't want to buy another engine just for parts, I'm trying to keep this "non project truck, project truck" as non project as possible....but if it was cheap....then I might. You wouldn't happen to still have the link?

Well back at it, nothing major to report but have started to remove and clean things. She cleans up might nice...and irony, once again, something blue.




I've got the manifold off so I'll drill for the EGT now.
I did find this stamp on the back of the head:




It states "SA HEADS" ?
Does anyone know if this is factory? Aftermarket? Rebuilt? How can I tell if this is an upgraded head?

Also this is the stamp on the head gasket:




Oil pan is coming off next, we'll see what that reveals.
Once again, sorry about the orientation of the pics, everything I try through the mobile app keeps screwing it up.

 

[Fantom]

It's a rebuilt head for sure.




And hasn't overheated since it's been done.

 

[Fantom]

Intake is out, and other side is clean.

 

[Fantom]

Well there wasn't anything bad in the oil pan, everything is looking pretty tight and clean, and I'm just flipping coins if I go a bit deeper or not...














Now the worn out keyway on the crank can be dealt with in 2 proper ways:
1: take the entire crank out, and machine a new keyway 180 degrees off, and do the same with the pulley. This is a more time consuming and expensive but good solution. You might also need to rebalance the pulley because that material is taken out but because it is so close to the center it likely will not be noticed...maybe.
2: weld the worn section and machine/grind it to shape. Not the crank should be heated a bit and cooled properly so the metal doesn't loose the hardening.
I'm still flipping a coin as to which one...

 

[Fantom]

Well the engine does have a couple kilometers on it. The real seal removal revealed a small groove in the crank from the seal. It looks worse than it is. The good thing is that the seal isn't seated in a specific spot so I can easily slide it further back.

 

[Fantom]

And under the bad news category we have the intake valves. Now the turbo was replaced because it was leaking oil into the intake side. Then he drove it a bit more with the new turbo. It is "possible" this is all old, and odd the number 2 has so much buildup while the others have less. Or the valve seals are shot, or there is oil being fed some other way into the intake side. There was a little fresh or wet oil reside in the intake pipes even pre turbo, which was weird.
Here are the cylinders, from 1 to 4:
















... I really don't want to pull the head off...ugh

 

[BCR4619]

Wow, I aint no expert but dam that's a lot of crud.


How much oil would have to be pumping from the turbo for that to happen?

 

[Fantom]

If he was running it like that for a year plus on a mild leak, it would do that. He wasn't too....experienced with engines and diesels. He finally replaced the turbo when he noticed that it was burning heavy blue. His dad actually told him to.
So I think it's all from the turbo. The problem now is cleaning that without pulling the head. If I do it with the valve closed and then try to suck it out with the shop vac it might work. I've got the engine on a stand so I can also tilt it so the stuff falls out.

 

[Fantom]

Oh, I need a page out of the manual for the 2lt, I've got a 2L manual but the pulleys are a bit different for the timing belt. If anyone has it I'd appreciate the pages about realigning the timing belt and pulleys. Thanks!

 

[Tin basher]

I have a manual for 86 toy diesel
think it might have that seem to remember it having turbo one in it to
And don't have a link to that engine I'm kind of a computer dummy

 

[Fantom]

Hmm, it might have it, give me call when you have time and maybe we can get together so I can have a look. Thanks.
604.8o3.3506

 

[Fantom]

And after careful deliberations, and a beer, I decided the best course of action is to remove the crankshaft and machine a new slot, 180 degrees from the current one.
I won't machine the pulley because it doesn't have a marks to be concerned about.
Now the really sad thing about that is that my milling machine is still in storage. So I will likely have to harass some friends for time on theirs.
I'm chosing to go this route because I don't want to anneal the metal by welding it, and it is the more proper way of doing this.
Tomorrow, crankshaft removal.

 

[Tin basher]

The manual doesn't show any differences between the turbo and non turbo
On the timing belt just line up the notches on pulleys with timing marks on cover
I work at cap it in poco near EBI so wouldn't be hard to meet up
I have it saved in a PDF file on my lap top and one I printed

 

[Fantom]

Well the crank didn't come out yet, had to deal with unrelated things.
As for the manual, the one I have shows this:




Ilthe engine I have doesn't have the pulley below the top cam pulley. The belt goes straight to the crank. So just wondering if there is a picture there of the engine with just 3 pulleys and 2 tensioners? And if so, are the marks any differently placed?
Thanks.
I might be able to pop by tomorrow or Wednes.