Diesel 5 speed

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The shop where I do major maintenance and repairs on mine recently did swap of FT into F. F series are most cheap to do as it does not have ECU and has not complicated wiring to marry. And here is the list of parts: engine itself, exhaust, new claster panel, second battery + tray, new AF housing, harness 12-24v, fuel filter, preheat wiring and pretty much that is it. Everything else in means of wiring fits from carby to diesel socket to socket.
 
As said that is a 12 valve, in the uk, aus, and japan etc, 1995 to 98 would be a 24 valve.

24 volt starting is part of the cold climate package, so aus, middle east etc would be 12 volt starting.

a lot of jap imports dont have leather, wheras ive never seen a uk 24 valve without leather.

uk 24 valves are only available in manual.
 
Seems every country/region of the world got their own recipe.
 
Well, I'm in Charlotte for training and have most of the day free tomorrow to take a look. I sent an email to the seller, I'll report back what I learn.
 
I am 100% in agreement with Jan, having converted my FZJ to HDJ. It is a labor-intensive process, and not much is plug-n-play, especially with the wiring and manual gearbox conversion. I have well over $13.5k in parts alone.

If this truck is not a scam, it is the deal of the century.
 
As said that is a 12 valve, in the uk, aus, and japan etc, 1995 to 98 would be a 24 valve.

24 volt starting is part of the cold climate package, so aus, middle east etc would be 12 volt starting.

a lot of jap imports dont have leather, wheras ive never seen a uk 24 valve without leather.

uk 24 valves are only available in manual.
Franky saying I had seen many JDM HDJs they were all two battery set up. It is surprise for me that JDMs had one battery set up. Something to learn every day.
I guess it is all about cold climate, as cold climate carburetor engines even have heater for PCV, carburetor electric pre-heat and intake hot air supply. As it is a big problem if PCV frozen closed. Would be very interesting to compare mine with with Central American or Australian carburated 1FZ-F version. Could someone share a VIN number for hot climate version? So we could compare the engine components and pre-heating systems. Just curious...
 
Franky saying I had seen many JDM HDJs they were all two battery set up. It is surprise for me that JDMs had one battery set up. Something to learn every day.
I guess it is all about cold climate, as cold climate carburetor engines even have heater for PCV, carburetor electric pre-heat and intake hot air supply. As it is a big problem if PCV frozen closed. Would be very interesting to compare mine with with Central American or Australian carburated 1FZ-F version. Could someone share a VIN number for hot climate version? So we could compare the engine components and pre-heating systems. Just curious...

is that like you show me yours, I'll show you mine?

have a look through toyodiy.com for parts numbers and diagrams (depending what part of the world you are in) etc for variants from all markets
 
I am 100% in agreement with Jan, having converted my FZJ to HDJ. It is a labor-intensive process, and not much is plug-n-play, especially with the wiring and manual gearbox conversion. I have well over $13.5k in parts alone.

If this truck is not a scam, it is the deal of the century.

Manual to manual does not require much of the work, swap can be done in 3 days.
As I said previously HZ and only 3F has a difference in flywheel. The 1HD-T, FT and FZ have the same flywheel. FZs have different bellhousing then HDs and FTs. The frame engine mounts are the same, the only frame of the 3F is different. So it requires new frame mounts, and new exhaust. Generally new exhaust is required for swap as petrol's exhaust can not handle the diesel's.
IMO, good shape 1HD-FT + H151F + clutch kit + bellhousing + exhaust + air intake + harness + dash = 7 to 10 thousands USD + workmanship. 1FZ-F is direct bolt on, the FE's electronic components has to be tricked out.
Auto to manual is more complicated as the tunnel cut out if different. The lever for center diff are different. The rear propshaft for auto is shorter and many other little details.
 
is that like you show me yours, I'll show you mine?

have a look through toyodiy.com for parts numbers and diagrams (depending what part of the world you are in) etc for variants from all markets
I will PM you mine could you PM yours, is yours 1FZ-F or FE? If FE I do not need it I want to compare carburetor AUS vs carburetor RUS.
 
It is surprise for me that JDMs had one battery set up.

I think all the JDM HDJ's had dual battery/24V starter setup, but there were many other markets with HDJ's that were single battery/12V starter from factory.
 
I think all the JDM HDJ's had dual battery/24V starter setup, but there were many other markets with HDJ's that were single battery/12V starter from factory.
Well, my assumption was as Japan is RHD as well as Australia, they could make the same spec vehicles. I like JDMs as they have better attention to little details. If you put nose to nose JDM RHD and LHD for instance Europe there will be so many differences in little things, better quality, little rubber bumps for handles and etc which doesn't exist on LHDs. As assist turn lights and etc. In general they look the same but when you compare them, it is obvious that JDMs are better quality in general.
 
Sounds like a scam for sure. Vehicle not in Charlotte, anyone in Utah that can take a look?

Hello, i'm asking $13,500. It’s in great condition, always garaged, no known problems, everything works as it should. No accidents, Clean title.
I'm selling the vehicle for this price because i've been deployed to UK and i'll stay here for at least one year, so it has to go, unfortunately.
At the moment the vehicle is in storage in Utah, but i'll take care of the shipping. Let me know if you're interested.

Pictures:

Thank you,
Sgt.
 
Manual to manual does not require much of the work, swap can be done in 3 days.
As I said previously HZ and only 3F has a difference in flywheel. The 1HD-T, FT and FZ have the same flywheel. FZs have different bellhousing then HDs and FTs. The frame engine mounts are the same, the only frame of the 3F is different. So it requires new frame mounts, and new exhaust. Generally new exhaust is required for swap as petrol's exhaust can not handle the diesel's.
IMO, good shape 1HD-FT + H151F + clutch kit + bellhousing + exhaust + air intake + harness + dash = 7 to 10 thousands USD + workmanship. 1FZ-F is direct bolt on, the FE's electronic components has to be tricked out.
Auto to manual is more complicated as the tunnel cut out if different. The lever for center diff are different. The rear propshaft for auto is shorter and many other little details.

The vehicle in question was originally a US-market rig, meaning that it only came with a 1FZ-FE, and an A343...thus it is a much more complicated conversion, as you noted...having personally re-wired and integrated all of the factory systems between the two takes knowledge, patience and time. No factory-manual 80 series were imported to the US-market. The used parts price is about right, but does not take into account doing a refresh on all of the gaskets and wear items while the motor is out. Other items are not 100% necessary, such as the radiator (not done on the rig in the pictures). Plus, a typical iH8Mudder would upgrade more than one item while in there...I know that I did.

All that I hope is that no one gets fleeced by whomever is pimping this ride.
 
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