- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah it doesn't look too bad but it will need to be started. Doesn't look like it has ever been touched.
Diagnosing CDL or Viscous Coupler Problem
- Thread starter bulldog1402
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
UPDATE!
So today I took off the CDL actuator. First of all, you should have seen the sludge that came out of the transfer case. No wonder there were problems. I can't wait to see what the front and rear look like.
The actuator is toasted. The screws are all rusted on and I am nervous to even try to get them out. I don't think that it is going to be a success story.
On top of that, the gear will not turn by hand. I can turn it a bit and then it seems to snap back into the original position, like a spring. It also failed the FSM tests with the 9V battery.
So now I am in the market for a good used one.
So today I took off the CDL actuator. First of all, you should have seen the sludge that came out of the transfer case. No wonder there were problems. I can't wait to see what the front and rear look like.
The actuator is toasted. The screws are all rusted on and I am nervous to even try to get them out. I don't think that it is going to be a success story.
On top of that, the gear will not turn by hand. I can turn it a bit and then it seems to snap back into the original position, like a spring. It also failed the FSM tests with the 9V battery.
So now I am in the market for a good used one.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks to the two members who reached out to me about CDL Actuators. I will know by the end of the weekend if I need one.
Question...I was able to find one locally and it looks brand new off a 1997 LX450. Aesthetically it looks great, but I cannot finger turn the gear. Also when I supply voltage with a 9V battery...nothing.
Should I be able to finger turn the gear back and forth? I opened my old one and the guts in both the motor and the gears were destroyed beyond repair, so I understood why I couldn't finger turn that one.
What do you think?
Question...I was able to find one locally and it looks brand new off a 1997 LX450. Aesthetically it looks great, but I cannot finger turn the gear. Also when I supply voltage with a 9V battery...nothing.
Should I be able to finger turn the gear back and forth? I opened my old one and the guts in both the motor and the gears were destroyed beyond repair, so I understood why I couldn't finger turn that one.
What do you think?
- Thread starter
- #25
Here are some pictures. I am at a loss. It looks great inside and our.
Pictures always help.
Pictures always help.
When you say "finger turn the gear", what are you referring to?
You obviously can't rotate the worm driven gear without rotating the motor.
There should be a small pilot gear that gets driven by the actuator assembly. This gear lives inside the transfer case housing and is what moves the slide collar back and forth to lock/unlock the center diff. If you slowly rotate the drive flanges you should easily be able to lock/unlock the center diff by rotating that gear.
You obviously can't rotate the worm driven gear without rotating the motor.
There should be a small pilot gear that gets driven by the actuator assembly. This gear lives inside the transfer case housing and is what moves the slide collar back and forth to lock/unlock the center diff. If you slowly rotate the drive flanges you should easily be able to lock/unlock the center diff by rotating that gear.
- Thread starter
- #27
Ok I thought the small pilot gear on the outside of the actuator motor was supposed to be finger turned.
What you are saying is that if I reach my hand into the TC I should be able to manually lock and unlock the center diff.
What you are saying is that if I reach my hand into the TC I should be able to manually lock and unlock the center diff.
- Thread starter
- #28
UPDATE:
I was able to get the actuator working. I took it all apart and cleaned and lubed it. It passed the 9V battery test and sounds great.
One more question. When I reinstall the actuator, I remember reading that I should put it back in an unlocked condition. So when I turn the gear in the transfer case, should it be all the way CW or CCW?
When I am cycling the actuator, would an unlocked condition be with power to pin 2 or pin 3?
Thanks. I want to be set up for success and I am almost there.
I was able to get the actuator working. I took it all apart and cleaned and lubed it. It passed the 9V battery test and sounds great.
One more question. When I reinstall the actuator, I remember reading that I should put it back in an unlocked condition. So when I turn the gear in the transfer case, should it be all the way CW or CCW?
When I am cycling the actuator, would an unlocked condition be with power to pin 2 or pin 3?
Thanks. I want to be set up for success and I am almost there.
At this point you can plug the actuator assembly back into the harness and use the switch. Why guess?
Make sure the locking collar in the transfer case matches the position of the actuator before assembly. Both need to be in the fully locked or fully unlocked position. Either position should be fine for re-assembly.
Make sure to use the orange Toyota FIPG once you're ready to button things up.
Make sure the locking collar in the transfer case matches the position of the actuator before assembly. Both need to be in the fully locked or fully unlocked position. Either position should be fine for re-assembly.
Make sure to use the orange Toyota FIPG once you're ready to button things up.
- Thread starter
- #30
No luck. I can't finger turn the idler gear at all.
Ugggg.
Ugggg.
Did you remove the driveshafts? If the driveline has any tension in it, you won't be able to move anything by hand.
You also mentioned that there was some sort of contaminated oil in the transfer case. Have you done a few drain/refills to flush the crap out?
You also mentioned that there was some sort of contaminated oil in the transfer case. Have you done a few drain/refills to flush the crap out?
- Thread starter
- #32
I had the driveshaft off before when I was diagnosing it. Though it is back on now.
At the moment, I have the front two tires in the air. Should I remove both driveshafts or just one?
As for the transfer case fluid, that has been drained and filled 3 times now.
At the moment, I have the front two tires in the air. Should I remove both driveshafts or just one?
As for the transfer case fluid, that has been drained and filled 3 times now.
- Thread starter
- #33
Update
Made some progress today. With the drive shaft off, I was able to move the idler by hand to lock and unlock position. Locked it by hand and installed my new actuator in the locked position.
Tested it and actuator whirrs when I push the cdl button on the dash. Light comes on and goes off as it should. I have two problems though.
1. Does not automatically switch into cdl when transfer case put into 4L. I don't care because I have the dash switch. I think there is a problem with my 4L sensor on the transfer case. If there is a problem with that sensor or I just unplug it altogether, will that cause problems.
2. More importantly. I have my front two tires off the ground at the moment. When I push the switch to lock the cd, when I rotate one tire, the other moves in the opposite direction. However, when I unlock the cd with the switch, I thought I would be able to turn only one and the other would stay motionless. When I unlock the cd, I get the same tire rotation as with the cd locked.
Please help. I am so close and this thread has helped me a ton.
Thanks.
Made some progress today. With the drive shaft off, I was able to move the idler by hand to lock and unlock position. Locked it by hand and installed my new actuator in the locked position.
Tested it and actuator whirrs when I push the cdl button on the dash. Light comes on and goes off as it should. I have two problems though.
1. Does not automatically switch into cdl when transfer case put into 4L. I don't care because I have the dash switch. I think there is a problem with my 4L sensor on the transfer case. If there is a problem with that sensor or I just unplug it altogether, will that cause problems.
2. More importantly. I have my front two tires off the ground at the moment. When I push the switch to lock the cd, when I rotate one tire, the other moves in the opposite direction. However, when I unlock the cd with the switch, I thought I would be able to turn only one and the other would stay motionless. When I unlock the cd, I get the same tire rotation as with the cd locked.
Please help. I am so close and this thread has helped me a ton.
Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #35
Oh ok. I was concerned for a minute there. Anyone on number 1?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sunds like the Pin 7 mod has been done on your truck. That allows you to control CDL with the switch.
- Thread starter
- #37
I thought so initially too but checked the relay and it hasn't been done. That was why I thought there might be a problem with the L4 sensor.
Lets assume I unplug that sensor completely on the transfer case. Will I see any negative results from this?
Lets assume I unplug that sensor completely on the transfer case. Will I see any negative results from this?
It would not be a problem per say. In stock working form the when shifted into low range the shift points of the transmission are changed, similar in fashion to using the ETC button. That would not happen in the current condition or if you pull the connector at the sensing switch. That is what the pin 7 mod is all about allowing the shift points to remain stock. That characteristic can be more of a personal preference than a malfunction. If you don't pull the plug or get the switched fixed it could function intermittently locking the center when you don't expect it to. That would be more of a safety factor as the ABS is disabled when the center locks.
- Thread starter
- #39
So boiled down, if I unplug that sensor, no 7 pin mod necessary but my shift points will always be in high. Is that correct?
OEM configuration when shifted to low the shift points are raised, holding the gears longer. Without the 7 pin mod and 4 Low switch disconnected the shift points remain low. I can't remember as it's been many years since I tested but I think the ECT can still manually control the shift points.