CV axle tough to remove from differential

[Pryorrides]

I'm pulling the passenger side CV axle out of a 2000 LC to re-boot it. I fully removed the spindle to also replace the ball joint dust covers. the CV seems stuck inside the differential. I tried prying on it with a few different pry bars. I'm not having any luck.

Could it possiblly be because the spindle is removed, the loose end of the axle is hanging causing it to be in a bit of a bind? I haven't resorted to any serious force yet.

How much force is required? How long of a pry bar do you use to get them out?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

There's several youtubes that show CV removal, take a look at one of those.

 

[nissanh]

I'm pulling the passenger side CV axle out of a 2000 LC to re-boot it. I fully removed the spindle to also replace the ball joint dust covers. the CV seems stuck inside the differential. I tried prying on it with a few different pry bars. I'm not having any luck.

Could it possiblly be because the spindle is removed, the loose end of the axle is hanging causing it to be in a bit of a bind? I haven't resorted to any serious force yet.

How much force is required? How long of a pry bar do you use to get them out?

You can reboot while the inboard joint is still attached to the diff. I have done it on a 4runner.

 

[scubadoober]

Make sure you are not prying between the dust cover and CV, and get on the out edge of the CV inner housing. You will think you are prying the CV out of the diff, but in reality you are prying off the dust cover from the CV. My driver side took a considerable amount of force. Don't be afraid, you can't hurt anything in there.

 

[badlander]

Prying never worked for me, no matter how hard I pryed.
The correct method is to set a drift in the recessed ring of the inner cv and whack it at about a 45 deg outward angle with a BFH. It will pop right out. It's the shock that gets the retaining clip out of the groove in the diff.
This method requires crawling umder the truck so make sure you take appropriate safety mesures.
AKA, solidly set jack stands.

 

[Malleus]

I've had to resort to setting a prybar (not a screwdriver but a real prybar) to load the CV axle outward, and then smacking it with a drift 180° around the outside; takes three hands. Then it came out, after several very long minutes of trying everything else I could think of.

 

[Dirt J]

As noted above, brass drift worked for me: Builds - Dirt J "Dirt Cruiser" Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dirt-j-dirt-cruiser-build.1319204/#post-15097880

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

I've found aftermarket CVs are a PITA to remove and aren't any easier to reinstall.

 

[2001LC]

When the steering knuckle (spindle) is off. Removing FDS (Front Drive Shaft, (AKA: CV)), is easy. Just grab outer CV of FDS. First push inward to compression center axle into inner CV. Then yank outward, very hard and fast. Repeat, until FDS pops out.

When working with knuckle still in place. Where we can't, grab outer CV (tulip) of FDS to yank effectively. We've two methods:
FSM recommends. Drift and BFH.
Alternatively, a crow bar can be used to pry out. But be very careful, to not damage aluminum dust cover that's pressed on inside of inner CV.
See, the aluminum dust cover.

Remember to guard the FDS outer seal. They bend easily.

Do not allow FDS outer CV to touch LCA. I use a oak stick. Laid across LCA behind LBJ.

Before rebooting. Inspect FDS, to see if worth your time rebooting.
Condition of outer axle splines and snap ring groove. This area is often to worn down, due to improper wheel bearing service.

New axle for comparison.

Tip: Condition of outer axle where axle bearing rides. Is our number one clue, as to health of axle bearing.

 

[2001LC]

Replace axle needle bearing & brass bushing if needed and rear knuckle seal.

While knuckle off, consider restoring it. De-rusting.

BTW: I use rubber mallet or soft wooden dowel, to pound out stuck wheel speed sensor.

Also flatten ball joint boot seal surface. That gets bent/wrapped, when BFH used to beat off ball joints (So Wrong).
We use pullers, not BFH. Or the warpage from beating with BFH, results in water contamination, getting under ball joint boot seal point.

We make sure, FDS seated in front differential. By pulling (don't yank) outward on FDS.

Installing FDS, is a piece of cake. When steering knuckle is out of the way.

 

[Scotty UZJ100]

Also a tip for reinstalling the inner CV to the diff is to have the opening of the c-clip/snap ring whatever you want to call it facing down. You can put a little bit of grease in the groove to help hold it in that orientation.

 

[Pryorrides]

Thanks for all the help. I got it out. I was expecting that as prying/drift punching it out to kind of "not move... not move... not move... bing!" Fully come out at once. While using a combination of prying and punching I realized it was in fact slowly coming out little by little, then it "bing" popped loose. I had previously thought that little bit of movement was just taking up slack between the inner retaining ring and the carrier.

I was afraid to just grab the outter end of the CV and tug because I had literally ripped CV's apart doing that in the past on lesser vehicles. These LC parts are fairly impressive for their build quality, everything about these vehicles gives the impression that almost no corners were cut during design and engineering.