So due to it being negative temps I don’t have the ability to do a re-boot kit on my L&R CV axles… Is $850 a fair price to have it done?
Appreciate all your advice
Appreciate all your advice
CV axel Reboot
- Thread starter ProvLC
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It's a lot of work...they have to come out and it's a messy job as well to regrease.
You're basically at $425 per side. Is that parts and labor? Do inner axle seals while they're in there.
I think it's fair.
You're basically at $425 per side. Is that parts and labor? Do inner axle seals while they're in there.
I think it's fair.
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- #3
Yes. Mechanic said over the phone he would use/order OEM boot kit if available. I explained that boot kit is available. I did’t get into supplying the boot kits, but given the mess, deep freeze weather, I think it is worth it… Just needed someone to “give me a push over the edge” to go ahead and sub out the work.
I prefer to wrench myself and enjoying pushing my limits of what I can and can’t do. But the temp of 1 and feels like -16 doesn’t sound appealing.
I get it, preaching to the choir.
You just missed a great Toyota sale that lets you buy a new CV for about $300 each free shipping, but they do come often and you might want to wait.
I went through a re boot and a year or 2 later had to replace with new because splines were clunking.
Not a pleasant job, specially if you have to do twice for same side..
If your boots are completely torn now and your balls are exposed to the weather (
) I guess it's better to do something than nothing, but if there's a small tear and some grease came out I'd jig something and wait to replace with new OEM axle, new seals and flange in one sitting when the weather improves, DIY is always a better job anyways.
Edited to add that if you're not 100% sure you have an OEM axle in there now, I definitely wouldn't re-boot.
I went through a re boot and a year or 2 later had to replace with new because splines were clunking.
Not a pleasant job, specially if you have to do twice for same side..
If your boots are completely torn now and your balls are exposed to the weather (
) I guess it's better to do something than nothing, but if there's a small tear and some grease came out I'd jig something and wait to replace with new OEM axle, new seals and flange in one sitting when the weather improves, DIY is always a better job anyways.Edited to add that if you're not 100% sure you have an OEM axle in there now, I definitely wouldn't re-boot.
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So I don’t I have a tear or hole in the boot. Very minimal grease escaping the outer boot. There is some evidence of dried grease there but nothing that is “slinging” off of them. I’m certainly due for a Diff. Fluid change, which is how I found the grease escaping in first place… if I change the Diff fluid, will I make the seeping of grease worse or am I just wasting money considering I. Going to need to change diff fluid when CVs come out regardless?
I think you don’t need to touch em yet at all. If they’re still not compromised nothing can get in to ruin the bearings ect. A little weeping is nothing of concern.
Yeah you’ll top off diff fluid but a diff fluid change is peanuts and simple so no worries if you have to re add a bit of fluid.
Diff fluid doesn’t have any correlation to CV boot grease getting worse. So maybe change the fluids then tackle the CVs later when you can.
If you’re paying for it all 3rd party, then sure do it all same time.
Sourcing those $300 reman/OEM CVs could be a smart move though. You could save your olds and reboot em next time too.
Yeah you’ll top off diff fluid but a diff fluid change is peanuts and simple so no worries if you have to re add a bit of fluid.
Diff fluid doesn’t have any correlation to CV boot grease getting worse. So maybe change the fluids then tackle the CVs later when you can.
If you’re paying for it all 3rd party, then sure do it all same time.
Sourcing those $300 reman/OEM CVs could be a smart move though. You could save your olds and reboot em next time too.
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- #9
Yea I saw CVreman has them for 260, refurb’d. But want $250 a core for deposit…. All in was $1000 but you get back $500 once they get your CV cores. It seems better to find a Toyota sale and get new at that point. But maybe I’m approaching the Refurb’d idea the wrong way…
Yea I saw CVreman has them for 260, refurb’d. But want $250 a core for deposit…. All in was $1000 but you get back $500 once they get your CV cores. It seems better to find a Toyota sale and get new at that point. But maybe I’m approaching the Refurb’d idea the wrong way…
Those CVJ ones are basically the same thing youll get from Toyota at that point. Downside is at that price I bet they cost a little more once you have to factor in shipping back the cores....I am assuming that is on the customer to do....
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- #12
Yes it’s all put in the customer. After redoing my mathematics it’s about the same price all in just to buy new OEM and replace myself.
With all that said, I’m just going to wait till warmer days ahead and do it myself.
ANOTHER project for the spring. Lol. Like I h don’t have enough them lined up. Lol.
Thanks all for the advice
If boot not ripped, and has not been run dry, reboot. If you buy axles, buy new, NOT remanufactured. That said I bought Toyota reman and they rattled like a mofo on dirt. The most objectional part of the job for me is getting the axle in and out. The short cut is the leave the knuckle attached via lower ball joint. There is barely enough room to CAREFULLY insert axel into the housing without damaging the seal.
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The fact, your shop/mechanic didn't know OEM boot kit available. I'd not use them.
Re- booting, is when a good FDS boot, has a hole or rip.
Very often. Grease is coming from under clamp area. From between axle and boot. I just re-clamp those. 0.5 hr., plus $5 NAPA CV large or small.
8 out of 10 are the small inner boot clamp. Some have been large inner boot. I've not seem OEM outer boot weep from under clamp, but can happens.
- Perhaps you've non OEM FDS (CV). In that event, OEM boot kit may not fit. That fact you've diff/FDS side seal leaks. Indicates, your FDS have be replaced. Likely with after market junk and seal not replace or knocked out of alignment.
- Re - booting, is a waste of money. If FDS (AKA CV) doesn't grade well. i.e.: outer axle splines, snap ring groove, outer CV, inner CV. Note: Remains, often have bad splines or snap ring groove.
Re- booting, is when a good FDS boot, has a hole or rip.
Very often. Grease is coming from under clamp area. From between axle and boot. I just re-clamp those. 0.5 hr., plus $5 NAPA CV large or small.
8 out of 10 are the small inner boot clamp. Some have been large inner boot. I've not seem OEM outer boot weep from under clamp, but can happens.
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- #16
Being that it will be my time replacing CVs, I probably won’t go the shortcut route. Also I ordered new lower Ball joints (555’s) so I figure this will be “while your in there fix these as well”.
I do like hearing about different methods and time saving tactics.
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