I've had a set of later doors for my 73 FJ40 for 10+ years and although I really don't ever use them I did have a ghetto-rific striker setup to allow their use. Now that I've started a hard half door project I decided I had better do it right and make some strikers that will work safely. I had seen a few pics posted up on MUD so I decided to use the same basic design.
I started by making a template for the updated strikers using an old set of newer strikers, some cardboard, mounting screws, and thin metal. I mocked up their proper location and cut out the cardboard template first. Then once I was certain of the placement I made a thin sheet metal version...
Here's the sheet metal outline with the mounting hole placement:
Now that I was comfortable with the template I asked for help from Pat at Summit Steel (landcruisnman). He had a few sets of these 3/16" plates made up in no time. Thanks Pat!
The next step was to take the old striker and grind off the metal backing holding the "U" section to the plate.
I had to use a large punch and a BFH to bang out the "U". Then I countersunk the mounting holes (3/4" countersink bit) on the new plate so that the original screws could be used on the stock tub...
As you can see above, I also placed the old striker plate on the new larger version and marked the holes to re-attach the "U" section. I was extremely careful to mark where the ends of the "U" section lined up with the new plate, then drilled the two holes. The last bit I used was 19/64 and it was exactly the right size.
I placed the "U" section against the holes and beat it in with a hammer. Front view...
Rear view...
I'll be home Monday to check these for final fitment before I take them in to have them professionally TIG welded (the backside of the "U" section to the plate). I decided I'd like to have piece of mind on an item like this and refrain from my hack welding.
I started by making a template for the updated strikers using an old set of newer strikers, some cardboard, mounting screws, and thin metal. I mocked up their proper location and cut out the cardboard template first. Then once I was certain of the placement I made a thin sheet metal version...
Here's the sheet metal outline with the mounting hole placement:
Now that I was comfortable with the template I asked for help from Pat at Summit Steel (landcruisnman). He had a few sets of these 3/16" plates made up in no time. Thanks Pat!
The next step was to take the old striker and grind off the metal backing holding the "U" section to the plate.
I had to use a large punch and a BFH to bang out the "U". Then I countersunk the mounting holes (3/4" countersink bit) on the new plate so that the original screws could be used on the stock tub...
As you can see above, I also placed the old striker plate on the new larger version and marked the holes to re-attach the "U" section. I was extremely careful to mark where the ends of the "U" section lined up with the new plate, then drilled the two holes. The last bit I used was 19/64 and it was exactly the right size.
I placed the "U" section against the holes and beat it in with a hammer. Front view...
Rear view...
I'll be home Monday to check these for final fitment before I take them in to have them professionally TIG welded (the backside of the "U" section to the plate). I decided I'd like to have piece of mind on an item like this and refrain from my hack welding.
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