Currie antirock for rear swaybar

[LandCruiserPhil]

Because sway bars are just a torsion spring with a rate. Different wheel rates and vehicle cg and spring rates and suspension geometries will require one to rely on engineering and math, not universal fitment guidelines from the manufacturer that assume most of those parameters.

Looks like you are spot on with the antirock given you nothing over stock (if any) but up and out of the way with no change to articulation.

 

[nukegoat]

Looks like you are spot on with the antirock given you nothing over stock (if any) but up and out of the way with no change to articulation.

It definitely affects articulation - the front is doing 75% of the work again but the solution isnt to unload the rear IMO - I just need a front bar too. As everyone knows- this is harder to package

 

[jcardona1]

It definitely affects articulation - the front is doing 75% of the work again but the solution isnt to unload the rear IMO - I just need a front bar too. As everyone knows- this is harder to package

Have you given the front any thought? A few weeks ago I laid under the truck and stared at it for a good 20 minutes trying to see if and how a front sway bar could work. It seems like going through the transmission and oil pan may be the only place that works, however it may interfere with my upper link during articulation - not sure about that part yet.

This is what I was picturing

 

[nukegoat]

Have you given the front any thought? A few weeks ago I laid under the truck and stared at it for a good 20 minutes trying to see if and how a front sway bar could work. It seems like going through the transmission and oil pan may be the only place that works, however it may interfere with my upper link during articulation - not sure about that part yet.

This is what I was picturing

Yeah. I think driveshaft and upper link may not like that on mine. I still think a 33" wide bar right underneath the radiator support with arms that go around the steering box might work.

Another option would be a very stiff bar slightly wider than the lower links and behind them... reacting on the lowers as you describe.

When theres a will theres a way... I think it would help quite a bit.

 

[bugsnbikes]

when does the 3ur-fe go in....

 

[nukegoat]

when does the 3ur-fe go in....

I dont have those skills. I admire everyone else on that front

 

[86tuning]

Amazing! I've always envisioned the bar going through the frame crossmembers. The 4Runners and GX470 have a round tube running through the frame. Would've been convenient if it was in the right spot, not hitting wheels under articulation, yada yada. Last time I looked under my truck I thought it might be possible. Suck down winch, genius solution too. Hopefully I won't need to, but it's getting close. I have <1" to my garage header lol.

 

[GW Nugget]

Mid arm? Its just a standard 3 link. Not sure what a midarm is.

And probably not unless people really ask for it. Not being cagey but its hours of picture curation and detail and most don't intend to follow suit so its not usually interesting to people

I call BS in that. The Hardcore section would be a better home though. Its nice to follow a build that is not spread out over a bunch of threads, its very difficult to come back & reference info. So I am asking for you to start a build a thread for historical value.

 

[nukegoat]

I call BS in that. The Hardcore section would be a better home though. Its nice to follow a build that is not spread out over a bunch of threads, its very difficult to come back & reference info. So I am asking for you to start a build a thread for historical value.

Ok fine

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

This simple Antirock setup would be a great option for many others if it was available in a stiffer configuration.

 

[nukegoat]

This simple Antirock setup would be a great option for many others if it was available in a stiffer configuration.

You can do the @jcardona1 route and get whatever size bar you want. Honestly, I don't think "many" others need a stiffer rear sway bar than this.

 

[GW Nugget]

In my opinion the one you have for stock axles would be to wide, it would catch a tire. @jcardona1 works for him since he has 1.5" wheel spacers & 3.75" BS on his wheels. So for regular folk we might need to skinny up the bar... I have now idea if that is possible.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

You can do the @jcardona1 route and get whatever size bar you want. Honestly, I don't think "many" others need a stiffer rear sway bar than this.

All the info I found showed it equal or very close to a factory bar (including yours) if you found anything to the contrary post it up. I ordered a heavy duty 30mm Whiteline last week needed for my additional weight but after bending my factory bar this past weekend it my prove to be not the way to go.

 

[hoser]

@LandCruiserPhil Check out TK-1. If 48" width bars will work for you, they have 1.25" and 1.50" bars they can turn down to your specs.

Look at their Desert Truck kits:
TK 1 RACING

 

[RFB]

37 spline vs 30 spline

Damn

 

[RFB]

that is sick, what type of bumpstops are those

 

[nukegoat]

All the info I found showed it equal or very close to a factory bar (including yours) if you found anything to the contrary post it up. I ordered a heavy duty 30mm Whiteline last week needed for my additional weight but after bending my factory bar this past weekend it my prove to be not the way to go.

Its a 1" bar thats 50" long. The arm length is between 14 and 18 based on the hole chosen. You can assume torsional stiffness of the oem and currie to be close enough. The math, then, supports that it can be set either stiffer or looser than the oe bar. That said, its not bending some wacky pretzel shape like the oem bar and youre not using rubber bushings so itll survive the abuse of offroad a bit longer than the stupid oe design.

 

[nukegoat]

that is sick, what type of bumpstops are those

Fox 2.0's

Having fun with them btw. The factory settings are weird but a nitrogen tank and some shock oil is all you need to start playing scienceman

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Its a 1" bar thats 50" long. The arm length is between 14 and 18 based on the hole chosen. You can assume torsional stiffness of the oem and currie to be close enough. The math, then, supports that it can be set either stiffer or looser than the oe bar. That said, its not bending some wacky pretzel shape like the oem bar and youre not using rubber bushings so itll survive the abuse of offroad a bit longer than the stupid oe design.

Thanks for your input Ill be sure to let you know how it works out.

 

[RFB]

Fox 2.0's

Having fun with them btw. The factory settings are weird but a nitrogen tank and some shock oil is all you need to start playing scienceman

Im still wlarning how to pay mechanic man, bt science man is close behind as Im already wondering how to make my ressy shocks softer or firmer and rad flos are rebuildable. Im thinking