Are you sure you're not talking about a heli coil repair that failed?
Currently doing the timing belt on my LX. Previous person in there stripped the bolt for the timing belt tensioner. Can I drill/tap/helicoil?
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Your correct, it was heli coil. Regardless Heli coil, time-sert or one of the other products for thread repair. If fails or simple installed not perfectly aligned. It can wipe-out the VVTi engine.Are you sure you're not talking about a heli coil repair that failed?
I don't disagree with fixing things the right and best way when possible and respect your experience and perspective on that.
But I want to add a few things I learned when researching Time -Sert vs helicoil etc when I was in this position that may help some other posters. There are a few advantages/features of time sert that made me comfortable with it as a solution.
1. It's a solid bushing where the bottom few threads actually get cold rolled into the external threads, giving it extra insurance and locking it into place, mechcanically. It's unlikely to ever backout or shear/blow out in this application.
2. You only need to drill to the depth of the insert, not all the way through the wall, so you won't drop much or many shaving/shards into the sump.
2. You can buy an optional tap guide with the kit, it forces the threads to be square as long as you use it correctly (which I didn't find difficult).
3. For some reason the shard size I experienced on my tools was tiny almost dust size compared to the other thread and the poster showing his experience with the helicoil kit that was not succesful.
Good luck however anyone goes on this. It's a bummer to have to fix this and all too common due to poor timing belt jobs by knucklehead mechanics.
I just undertook this same repair when doing my timing belt in March. The threads came out with the bolt, likely due to being over torqued By the last person. I used the Time-Sert kit and was pleasantly surprised at how easy the repair was. Its running like a dream a few thousand miles later and I am quite happy.
Study the installation process and take it slow. The bolt takes about 25 Ft pounds if I remember correctly so the sert should have no issues holding that.
TO MANY, are needing this repair in the first place. The only reason I've seen for these thread being damage. Is cross threading. Which can't happen if proper procedure used. Time-sert do take a higher level of skill.
If I'm working on someone engine and find one of these. I give them the option:
A) In situ
B) R&R the oil pump.
I explain:
The Time-sert kits, are a great kits. I've used them for years. Some aren't aware, the sert are ordered, to match to the application. I'll get proper insert.
It's the alignment and proper procedure, which is key to a good insert job. Be it, in-situ (more difficult) or on the bench (easier).
I've no concern of punching through, oil pump with bits. As pictures above shows: The port passes through the aluminum oil pump, to open space with iron deeper in
I've only minor concern with metal shavings. Using grease on bit, tap a rimier. Most shavings stick to. Those that do fall in, only have very very small chance of causing damage (2% chance). Nothing that would likely cause an engine failure.
I'll not warranty a time-sert.
Non VVT, if time sert fails. We just have to go back in and do the job again.
If VVT and time -sert fails. We'll need a replacement engine.
Which way would you like it done?
If I'm working on someone engine and find one of these. I give them the option:
A) In situ
B) R&R the oil pump.
I explain:
The Time-sert kits, are a great kits. I've used them for years. Some aren't aware, the sert are ordered, to match to the application. I'll get proper insert.
It's the alignment and proper procedure, which is key to a good insert job. Be it, in-situ (more difficult) or on the bench (easier).
I've no concern of punching through, oil pump with bits. As pictures above shows: The port passes through the aluminum oil pump, to open space with iron deeper in
I've only minor concern with metal shavings. Using grease on bit, tap a rimier. Most shavings stick to. Those that do fall in, only have very very small chance of causing damage (2% chance). Nothing that would likely cause an engine failure.
I'll not warranty a time-sert.
Non VVT, if time sert fails. We just have to go back in and do the job again.
If VVT and time -sert fails. We'll need a replacement engine.
Which way would you like it done?
Mine is an 01 so non-vvti, it was my daily so I needed it just to be done. I could have spent several days worth of labor and and replaced the oil pump or done a time sert and be finished that afternoon. I happened to have a mechanic friend who already had the kit so I didn't have to wait and order it. For me it was a no brainer. Like I said, a couple of years later and and several thousand miles and no problems whatsoever.
Yeah like I said, I agree with the correct permanent fix approach from your perspective as a professional mechanic who does this work for a living and has to deal with the outfall of a failure.
I think a lot of us find our pulley bolt holes striped out from other mechanics, and if we possess the skill to fix it with a time sert it's a good option for a 1 day project vs pulling the motor and getting back on the road.
Reading this thread gives me the heebie jeebies...
Is this a common problem for the Japan 2UZFE? I have to do the timing belt on my LX soon.
I've done timing belts on the American 2UZ (Tundra/Sequoias) and never ran into this issue.
Is this a common problem for the Japan 2UZFE? I have to do the timing belt on my LX soon.
I've done timing belts on the American 2UZ (Tundra/Sequoias) and never ran into this issue.
I personally think it's due to one of two things. 1. The last person that did the timing belt over torqued the bolt so when you loosen it it takes the threads out with it. 2. If you do get it out successfully be extremely careful putting it back in. You're having to work at a weird angle and it's very easy to cross-thread the bolt. If you can avoid these two things you should be home free.
Regarding the weird angle of the bolt, I wonder if that's why they say you should remove the radiator for the T-Belt job. I know some say it's not necessary, but I've always removed the radiator on the two T-belts I've done on the 2UZ.
Luckily, I don't think the timing belt has ever been done on my LX @ 238K. At least no records of it.
I may torque down this bolt a little less than 25 ft/lbs when doing this one.
Luckily, I don't think the timing belt has ever been done on my LX @ 238K. At least no records of it.
I may torque down this bolt a little less than 25 ft/lbs when doing this one.
It can take 25, the last thing you want is to not get the bolt load and it back out eventually. As long as it's not already stripped you'll be fine. Forum makes this seem common but it's really just a handful of us probably. In my case it was the damn dealership mechanic who stripped it before I got the vehicle and started doing all the work myself
Cross threading can't happen, if proper procedure used. Which is simply, threading bolt on by hand. If binds, back out and start over.
Over tightening, can't happen. When proper procedure used. Which is simply, using a torque wrench the last turn of bolt.
A cross thread bolts, hold very tight, until removed.
Stripped threads, don't hold once strip. Which over tightening can do. I'd guess more than 300% of spec torque.
Over tightening, can't happen. When proper procedure used. Which is simply, using a torque wrench the last turn of bolt.
A cross thread bolts, hold very tight, until removed.
Stripped threads, don't hold once strip. Which over tightening can do. I'd guess more than 300% of spec torque.