Cruiser88"s Rig O da´Month

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Looks nice...except for that you know what above the windshield. :D

I think you should pull all the blocks. I don't think you need as much lift as you have unless you are going larger in tires (which you won't like with the 4.88 gears).

Evilbay is your friend on those trim pieces. I see them come up occasionally.

I didn't think an 84 would come in red so I'm all for the repainting. Btw, are those the original mirrors? In 85 they were much smaller.

The only thing you're missing is one of these:
Parts 020.webp
 
WarDamnEagle said:
Looks nice...except for that you know what above the windshield. :D

I think you should pull all the blocks. I don't think you need as much lift as you have unless you are going larger in tires (which you won't like with the 4.88 gears).

Evilbay is your friend on those trim pieces. I see them come up occasionally.

I didn't think an 84 would come in red so I'm all for the repainting. Btw, are those the original mirrors? In 85 they were much smaller.

The only thing you're missing is one of these:
Click to expand...
I have no clue on the mirrors. I thinking they are not cause they are not original doors...and that is not the original paint job. The painted over the poo which I would have rather had. The only blocks left is in the rear and they must stay so the rig will stay level. The front perches are different which is why there is a shim on the drivers side. I do have the 3 holes perches here from AllPro.

I am puzzled on the springs.....they just seen way longer than stock. Any clue what they are?
 
nice

you need to remove the track bar on the front axle.
you need to relocate the hi lift. you dont want that lip of it hanging down ready to snag you on a rock or somthing.
MUST get rid of the rear blocks. very dangerous. trust me, i got F'd cause my blocks shattered one day.
you can put the V6 Calipers on there, and FJ80 (I think) rotors.
you need high steer.
you need to check out roger browns site 4crawler.com to do the light switch mod for the rear deck light. So you can turn it on and off at any time, and I bolted a 1156NA bulb on the roll bar in that light circuit. very cool.

btw, I personally dont have an A pilliar cover. I'll go to my buddys shop tomorrow and see if he has one.
 
WristPin said:
nice

you need to remove the track bar on the front axle.
you need to relocate the hi lift. you dont want that lip of it hanging down ready to snag you on a rock or somthing.
MUST get rid of the rear blocks. very dangerous. trust me, i got F'd cause my blocks shattered one day.
you can put the V6 Calipers on there, and FJ80 (I think) rotors.
you need high steer.
you need to check out roger browns site 4crawler.com to do the light switch mod for the rear deck light. So you can turn it on and off at any time, and I bolted a 1156NA bulb on the roll bar in that light circuit. very cool.

btw, I personally dont have an A pilliar cover. I'll go to my buddys shop tomorrow and see if he has one.
Click to expand...
Thank you for checking wristy.

Whats wrong with the track bar other than messing with the articulation of the front axle? I can do the light switch mode easy was considering it already:).
I cannot remember the stencil strength on them blocks but it was crazy high. The crossover steering kit is coming along with steer assist;)
 
Change the front rotors to fj60 and use v6 calipers. x2 on getting rid of the extra crap on that front axle. Looks good! How hard was the install on those fender flares? I'm going to need them to pass inspection here.
 
ajfriz said:
Change the front rotors to fj60 and use v6 calipers. x2 on getting rid of the extra crap on that front axle. Looks good! How hard was the install on those fender flares? I'm going to need them to pass inspection here.
Click to expand...

Don't use the gaskets they sell.....total junk and you really don't need them. I like the look of the screws exposed....took me 30 minutes but They did not send enough screws?
 
I was out exploring in 2wd in my black 4runner. i went up this hill that had roots across it like stairs. at the time i was really pissed off cause they just cut down all the trees, and it was my favorite campin spot.

so i kinda was hard on the throttle up these stairs things, and all of a sudden i hear a BANG! and lost power, an instantly stopped. I thought i broke a u joint.

well i was far worse. turns out both blocks SHATTERED and caused the axle to rotate up, so the pinion was vertical, breaking the yoke, and causing the parking brake cable to wrap around the axle tube, causing the rear drums to lock up.

i was on a hill, could not pull myself out in, now, FRONT wheel drive.
i was F'd. fortunatley, the ONLY truck I saw that whole day was a chevy, who drug me to flat land, where i used a high lift to jack up the rear of my truck in my receiver hole.

i'm glad i am so anal about bring tools with me at all times. i used my SnapOn cordless impact gun to loosen the ubolts on the axles, jam what what was left of the blocks in there. I couldnt just keep em out, cause the bolts are too long with out them.

got my drive shaft unbolted from the transfer case. disconnected the bent to hell cables from the parking brake lever.

milked it home on two wheel drive. that night i found 4" springs, and bolts. fixed it right, and vowed NEVER to use blocks again. Fortunatly i have a few trucks, so i used the driveshaft out of another one.

I have 4" springs on the meatmobile too. i will never use blocks again.

the ones on my 4runner were made of pot metal. the ones i removed on the meatmobile were aluminium. they had cracks in em and where ready to go.

does not matter the tensile strength, they should not be used, cause they can not be trusted.

only reason you want that track bar out of there is to improve articulation. and it really dont help much to prevent axle wrap.

on my truck, the damn frame cracked all around the mount location and was floppin around.

i did fix that along with a bunch of other frame stuff on it.
 
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