Cranking but no Start

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Joined
May 28, 2013
Threads
25
Messages
487
Location
Bavaria
So I got all the fluid filled, and got it to crank. But it's not starting, or rather, staying running.

It cranks, tries to run, runs super rough for a second or two and dies. It sounds like a damn diesel when it's trying to run lol

Thinking I got the dizzy off just a bit and the timing is WAY off.

Anyone else have thoughts on that? Sound like the issue? I'm going to pull the dizzy tomorrow and have another go at installing it. Hopefully some better luck this time.
 
Could be the dizzy is off by a tooth. When I did that, I was able to keep it running when I turned the distributor all the way to one side. But then when I tried to adujst to where I could see the marks on the flywheel, it would die.

I would double check the simple stuff: fuses, electrical plugs connected, spark plug wires in the right place, etc.
 
Sounds about right. I tried the dizzy turned all the way both ways. Better with one. Worse the other. Gotta be the dizzy.
 
So here's what it sounds like. It cranks now. Idles. Gets really rough (like the beginning of the video). Knocking I guess? From the rear of the motor. Guess I might have mixed up the injector plugs. No dice. Same issue.



Starting to get worried now. Not much time left to get this running... Debating just dropping it off somewhere and have them troubleshoot...
 
Crankshaft position sensor?
 
Not a vacuum leak. It's much worse than that. I had a vacuum leak from the valve cover gasket, so I'm aware of what that sounds like. This is definitely not the same.
 
Are you certain you put the timing chain in correctly? Is the timing light showing number 1 cylinder firing around your timing mark? Are the timing marks on the flywheel like a 2F? Does the timing advance with rpm? Does it backfire?

If you're not absolutely certain of timing, do it the old fashioned way- pull the valve cover, crank the engine with a ratchet on the crank with a long screwdriver in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole. (Slowly!) When the piston is completely up, and both valves are closed and loose, check your distributed cap and make certain the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug pin. You can roll and engine backwards and forewords to get the piston right at the top, many will tell you not to, I've done it many times.

This is probably something easy.

Run a compression test. That will tell you a lot. Crank at wide open throttle and the fuel pump fuse pulled. If your valves are set wrong, or your timing chain is off, you'll have low compression in cylinders. Write them all down and post what you got.
 
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No timing chain on the 3FE. When I reset the distributor, I lined up the proper timing marks (just like a 2F), both rockers loose on the number 1. Dizzy is point where it needs to, slightly offset from the bolt for the cap thats by the #1 cylinder pin per the FSM.

You're right. It's probably something easy. But I'm definitely running out of time!
 
I'm going to try and reset the dizzy again tonight. I know I was way off before. Hopefully I'm just a tooth off and it'll be the end of the story. More to follow tonight...
 
When you are in there check the rotor for wear and the cap electrodes for wear/scale. Make sure there are no cracks in the cap and no moisture is in there. Good luck , anxious to see what you find out on the dizzy alignment.
 
I'm a world class moron.

Sooooooo.... Luke was right. It was something easy.

Turns out it was running great all along! BUT, when you put in the wrong flex plate to torque converter bolts, it rattles around and makes it sound and run like sh*t.

So after tracking down that little fiasco, replacing them with the proper, 1/8" shorter bolts (I guess the 62 bolts are longer), I cranked it, and it roared to life. No terrible knocking sound. Smooth idle. I still need to get a timing light on it. Time to button the rest of it up.

Does anyone have a timing light they can loan me? I really don't feel like buying one.
 
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