Crank Seal Advice

[frankjconway]

I’m doing the timing belt on a new to me 1998 LX470 with 240k. Reading up on things it seems like opinions are split whether to replace the seal if not leaking. I’m in the camp not, but having trouble telling. Being nothing is perfectly clean in an engine I’m reaching out for feedback on the pictures. It doesn’t look like there’s oil right under the pulley/crank, but there is oil/grime in the vicinity. I’d appreciate if some more experienced than I with these take a look at the pics and give feedback. This had oil undercoat, so some oil (on external surfaces) could be from that. Thanks in advance!

 

[frankjconway]

View from above showing my where I wiped grime away.

 

[frankjconway]

View from above showing my where I wiped grime away.

View attachment 4192676

 

[frankjconway]

More pics without the pulley. The actual seal part looks (I think) pretty dry. The was oil on the hydraulic tensioner bolts when I removed it. I’m starting to wonder if the oil is coming from elsewhere (it wasn’t leaking on the ground).

 

[OEMGUY0720]

99% positive that oil weep is from the from the front crank seal.

Added insurance when you replace it is to apply a thin layer of fipg around the outer surface of the seal. And usually when the front crank seal has failed, the camshaft seals are on its way as well so you may consider servicing that as well.

 

[frankjconway]

Thanks so much for the reply. The hydraulic tensioner bolts, tensioner piston itself, and the pivot bolt albeit to a lesser extent all had oil on it. The snout of the crankshaft where it meets the crank pulley/cog was completely dry at the shoulder where it seats, which is very close to the rotating part of the seal. I respect your an anyone’s opinion on here - just trying to talk through it. Cam seal area is completely dry so I’m inclined to leave those. I’m just nervous to change the crank seal and have it leak.

 

[vipergrhd]

If you are doing your own work I say do what ever you want, but if you are paying someone to do this job I would want all seals (cam & Crank) replaced that slim chance of leak may bite you later and we have a saying in the shop "Pay me now or pay me later, it will just cost you more later". All TB and WP jobs I did always get new seals I am not taking that risk of doing that job again when SHTF when you are in the middle of nowhere. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[GTV]

Crank seal is easy, do it. Cam seals are much more labor intensive, if they’re not leaking leave them alone.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

That pivot bolt for the t-belt tensioner pulley actually goes through the oil pump assembly, so proceed with caution when cleaning that area and torqued at 25 ft-lbs which is plenty to seal it from oil leak and fasten it. I use conventional ear plugs to seal that hole when cleaning oil buildup in that area.
The crankshaft end is dry because of the centrifugal force it generates when it rotates so the weep will be around it and away from the center. Also, the weep is acceptable on manufacturer’s standard up to 150-200k miles service interval as the OE crankshaft itself is not high performance-blueprinted / balanced so over time that oscillation will produce little weep and that seal is categorized as normal wear part (this is where Toyota puts all manufacturers behind in terms of longevity).
There are a lot of ways to remove it, I use a self tapping screw paired with a screwdriver trim removal tool to extract it.

The camshaft seals on a 98 is definitely easier, straight forward like the front crankshaft seal.

 

[frankjconway]

Thanks everyone. I’ve changed a bunch of similar seals over the years and am going too far down the rabbit hole on these and over analyzing things like a microscopic groove that will cause havoc. I came to my senses, put on my big boy pants and pulled the seal and all looks good. Had to go to work but will finish up later today. Thanks again!

 

[excessive]

if you're in that deep, replace it. id replace it even if i didnt think it was leaking.

 

[2001LC]

Crank seal is easy. BUT! All to often crank or oil pump case it seats in, are damaged (scored) when removing.
Here's a few, I did have to replace crank seal. That were not factory installed. To date, I've yet to replace a factory seal.

Here's a cam seals I found leaking, that also had been replaced

Looking at your pictures. I can only see 350 degrees of crank seal. I do not see a leak, but would need to see 360 degrees.

But you do have oil in area. Which I suspect is tension pulley bolt threads. Look very close at washer/spacer between pulley and oil pump. Likely find wet with oil.

What I do almost always replace is Fan Bracket
Here's seal in back of fan bracket, at 24K miles. FSM states: Any leak, replace FB.

Even if I see just a tad of gleam from oil on fan brackets bearing seal. I replace.

Here's something AFAIK, only I do. These days, with ever timing belt job.