Ah, so the actual rear interior heater.
Coolant System Maint.
- Thread starter mwebfj60
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- #23
It did a good job, it's just sodium citrate. If the cooling system was a mess I probably would have used something a little harsher.
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- #24
Progress finally. The local parts guy ordered the wrong clamps and a wrong hose...twice...it's a pretty hookie system they use. Get the part number off the IPB, type it into one system, copy and paste into another system, copy and paste into another system...no wonder he screwed up twice.
Fill and burp tomorrow.
Fill and burp tomorrow.
This is a great idea, and I saw another Mud post where someone flushed all three "blocks" of the cooling system (heaters, engine, rad) seperately with a submersible pump.
I'd jump into this method if I felt more confident about not putting the cleaning solution through with too much pressure, possibly causing stuff to burst or leak. You said 600 gph @ 12 feet of lift, is there some overall guideline you would use to ensure you purchase a pump that won't blow the pipes to bits ?
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- #27
If you have the return flowing freely into the bucket you shouldn't have a pressure issue. If the core is so plugged up you are seeing pressure building up, it may be best to reduce flow rate or use another method or pull it and take it to a rad shop. I wouldn't use my large industrial pump or anything but a little pond pump like this shouldn't blow out metal seams.
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- #28
Burped and back on the road. No leaks yet but will probably have to snug up the clamps after a few heat cycles. One perk from all of this is a complete trail set of hoses.
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- #29
I used a Gates 18773 for this NLA return hose
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What type of fan belt is that?
Ok thanks. I figured the less pressure the less risk, and we probably aren't going to clean out much anyway without seriously caustic cleaner. So just to do it for my mental satisfaction, I picked up this drill-powered water pump to try for this job.
Can you tell me where exactly the inputs and outputs are that you used ? I figure the system to be in three independent "blocks" - the heaters in the cabin, the engine block (and oil cooler) and the radiator. Where are the ideal places to pump into and out of each of these functional blocks ?
Will I be pumping through the truck water pump and thermostat ?
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- #32
Main Heater Core/ Front
Red is inlet, Blue outlet. I ran mine through the valve. If I was running a harsher cleaner I probably wouldn't have.
Rear Heater, not a great pic but it's the two hard lines that wrap under the passenger footwell.
Red is inlet, Blue outlet. I ran mine through the valve. If I was running a harsher cleaner I probably wouldn't have.
Rear Heater, not a great pic but it's the two hard lines that wrap under the passenger footwell.
Not meaning to hijack, but would you mind posting a link to this kit?
Thanks for the pics. This is quite helpful. It's been getting cold out but should warm up later this week enough for me to mess around with this again. I played around with that drill based water pump in the meantime and tried to research some better cleaner.
Also, if I wanted to flush the engine block coolant jacket, where would you put the in/out for the backflush ? Would you blow water through the water pump or would that destroy it ?
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- #35
If you are trying to flush the whole system, the normal way would be to drain the system, fill with water and a flushing chemical, drive around for several hours, drain again, flush with water, refill with antifreeze and distilled water.
This is basically doing what the pump method does, just circulates cleaner through the whole system at once, with hot water.
I guess it depends on how many miles since the last cooling system maintenance and why you are flushing. Either way, you have to start by draining the antifreeze. Take a close look at what comes out.
Once that is done, you can remove and inspect inside hoses. This is a good time to open up the thermostat housing, the gasket on top of the thermostat is prone to disintegrating. When you open up the housing, the inside of the housing, the antifreeze, inside of radiator, and the hoses will give you a pretty good idea as to how much buildup is in the system and you can make a decision on the appropriate cleaning method.
If you want to flush the block, I would probably use the pipe (joint) on top of the head and the lower hose off the water pump. Or, with the thermostat out, possibly the upper radiator hose and the lower...seems like the better way would be to do the whole system at that point.
This is basically doing what the pump method does, just circulates cleaner through the whole system at once, with hot water.
I guess it depends on how many miles since the last cooling system maintenance and why you are flushing. Either way, you have to start by draining the antifreeze. Take a close look at what comes out.
Once that is done, you can remove and inspect inside hoses. This is a good time to open up the thermostat housing, the gasket on top of the thermostat is prone to disintegrating. When you open up the housing, the inside of the housing, the antifreeze, inside of radiator, and the hoses will give you a pretty good idea as to how much buildup is in the system and you can make a decision on the appropriate cleaning method.
If you want to flush the block, I would probably use the pipe (joint) on top of the head and the lower hose off the water pump. Or, with the thermostat out, possibly the upper radiator hose and the lower...seems like the better way would be to do the whole system at that point.
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- #37
Right now I'm running the carb advance port to the secondary diaghragm with the blue VTV. I was playing around with different recurves, springs and weights, and different base timing. I almost had it perfect and on the primary diaghragm but slight pinging under heavy load...long story short and after having the distributor apart about 20 times with many more base timing adjusts and test drives, this config gives me the best acceleration and cruising power. Base timing is right at 12 degrees. I'm starting my resmog soon so all this is moot.
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- #38
Just saw this, the ones in the pic are Dayco belts. I just put on an OEM set and the DayCo belts move to the trail set.
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- #39
Water pump to pulley/fan clutch studs 8mm 1.25 pitch, both sides.
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- #40
This was a good lesson in use OEM parts. There was a noticeable workmanship difference between the GMB Japan unit I had on there and the OEM pump.
Another thing that came to my mind is the more OEM stuff we buy, the longer that products life span. Most of the rear heater hoses and clamps are NLA. Makes sense, it's not a necessary system so it gets bypassed or deleted instead of fixed. That's my boot warmer on the way to the slopes...necessary luxury.
That's a quality product
Another thing that came to my mind is the more OEM stuff we buy, the longer that products life span. Most of the rear heater hoses and clamps are NLA. Makes sense, it's not a necessary system so it gets bypassed or deleted instead of fixed. That's my boot warmer on the way to the slopes...necessary luxury.
That's a quality product