Coolant in Oil

[dcarcagno]

I’m losing my mind here. I’m trying to time the engine. I followed the fsm, then retried using the T marks and the nub on the crank. The issue is I get all the marks lined up. But then I install the tensioner, very slowly, and inevitably it pulls either the cams or the crank slightly out of time. It’s driving me insane. I’ve taken it off and on 3 times. Any ideas??

 

[dcarcagno]

Update. I got the timing figured out and put it all back together. Started it the other day. I have put about 10 miles on it so far. Still burning off some stuff from the install but much less coolant smoke. The smoke is almost completely gone. I’ll give it another day or two before I start worrying. Haha

 

[2001LC]

Here's a jar oil oil contaminated with coolant. Looks like color in your head cover. Send oil sample to Blackstone. See if coolant present.

Water bypass joint gaskets front or rear leaks. Can't get into crank case. Unless a crack in block in valley, which I've not heard of. Coolant would have to pool over crack.

Head cover gasket leak are not really a possibility, as coolant entry point either.

Coolant/water in a cylinder, when engine running. Vaporizes and steam cleans. I'd scope cylinders. Look for any piston top and valves, very clean (decarbonized).

Sometimes, coolant drips in a cylinder, when engine cold. These engine my run well without a missing (rough running). Cold engine have not expanded (tight), from heat yet. Once water bypass back on. Pressurize coolant system, with engine cold. Scope each cylinder, looking for drips of coolant.

There are water passage in heads, block that could crack and leak. But would take sever overheating, and heads would very likely be wrapped before that. Check head gasket.

 

[dcarcagno]

Thanks for everyone’s responses! The cars been running well for a week or so. Couple small leaked from hoses that were either reused or not tight. That’s fixed. Engine runs smoothly and has good power. No more white smoke or coolant smell. Just some minor smells from the engine bay where stuff is still burning off. I am going to replace the alternator as it’s making a whine. And the fan pulley is missing a bolt and one of the studs seems loose. Other than that everything seems all good so far. Now I can turn my attention to the interior and exterior cosmetic stuff!

 

[Nardulli]

Here's a jar oil oil contaminated with coolant. Looks like color in your head cover. Send oil sample to Blackstone. See if coolant present.
View attachment 4020200

Water bypass joint gaskets front or rear leaks. Can't get into crank case. Unless a crank block in valley, which I've not heard of. Coolant would have to pool over crack.

Head cover gasket leak are not really a possibility, as coolant entry point either.

Coolant/water in a cylinder, when engine running. Vaporizes and steam cleans. I'd scope cylinders. Look for any piston top and valves, very clean (decarbonized).

Sometimes, coolant drips in a cylinder, when engine cold. These engine my run well without a missing (rough running). Cold engine have not expanded (tight), from heat yet. Once water bypass back on. Pressurize coolant system, with engine cold. Scope each cylinder, looking for drips of coolant.

There are water passage in heads, block that could crack and leak. But would take sever overheating, and heads would very likely be wrapped before that. Check head gasket.

You seem to really know these trucks well. Would you be kind enough to explain the coolant bypass system? I’ve got all the hoses and gaskets etc and replacing them is no problem. I just like to understand systems and not just replace parts.

 

[2001LC]

You seem to really know these trucks well. Would you be kind enough to explain the coolant bypass system? I’ve got all the hoses and gaskets etc and replacing them is no problem. I just like to understand systems and not just replace parts.

Many thread and diagram in this forum and online. Heater Tee's are the ones, you'll find the most info on.

I'll touch on just the water bypass joints.

The front and rear water bypass joints (WBJ). Connect BK1 to BK2 water passages of heads 98-05 2UZ. 06-07 2UZ vvti has added air hose, air passage and mounts for SAI system. Each joint has a gasket (4) on each side where they attach to heads. These gasket do sometimes fail. Which just looking at where WB joint attaches to head. You can see most leaks. Sometimes leak at a WBJ gasket. Is hidden by intake manifold. The leak runs down into engine block valley.

Front BK2 WBJ leak.

I'll assume you have the short elbow heater tee hose. That connects, rear water bypass pipe (Diver side (DS)) to heater Tee. This is hot coolant passage to front (upper) and rear (lower) heater cores. Warning: Do not put any side to side force, on the pipe coming up from rear water bypass joint, that short elbow hose is attached to. Pipe is only a press fit in rear WBJ. Moving it, can result in a leak at press fit. I cut this hose off the pipe, being careful not to score the pipe. My tool of choice is a hook razor. I always replace this elbow hose when replacing heater tee's. I do not replace any other of the heater core hoses, unless they're damaged/swollen/junk. I always use factory old clamps. place back in same orientation/impression made by clamp. Exception is new hose, where I place clamp in any orientation that make easy.

Front water bypass joint. Connect to upper radiator hose. We replace this hose when replacing radiator or if past useful life.
There's also a, throttle body thermostat small hose water hose, rarely replaced.
4.7L 2UZ-fe VVt picture.

Non VVT 98-05

 

[2001LC]

I'll add this picture. Which show where WBJ attaches to head, which is below intake manifold gasket area. So even if intake manifold gasket had bad leak. It would be very rare coolant could travel up to intake ports. A leak that bad, would be so bad coolant level would drop very fast.

4.7L 2UZ-fe VVTi.

 

[Nardulli]

Many thread and diagram in this forum and online. Heater Tee's are the ones, you'll find the most info on.

I'll touch on just the water bypass joints.

The front and rear water bypass joints (WBJ). Connect BK1 to BK2 water passages of heads 98-05 2UZ. 06-07 2UZ vvti has added air hose, air passage and mounts for SAI system. Each joint has a gasket (4) on each side where they attach to heads. These gasket do sometimes fail. Which just looking at where WB joint attaches to head. You can see most leaks. Sometimes leak at a WBJ gasket. Is hidden by intake manifold. The leak runs down into engine block valley.

Front BK2 WBJ leak.
View attachment 4025302

I'll assume you have the short elbow heater tee hose. That connects, rear water bypass pipe (Diver side (DS)) to heater Tee. This is hot coolant passage to front (upper) and rear (lower) heater cores. Warning: Do not put any side to side force, on the pipe coming up from rear water bypass joint, that short elbow hose is attached to. Pipe is only a press fit in rear WBJ. Moving it, can result in a leak at press fit. I cut this hose off the pipe, being careful not to score the pipe. My tool of choice is a hook razor. I always replace this elbow hose when replacing heater tee's. I do not replace any other of the heater core hoses, unless they're damaged/swollen/junk. I always use factory old clamps. place back in same orientation/impression made by clamp. Exception is new hose, where I place clamp in any orientation that make easy.

View attachment 4025281
View attachment 4025292

View attachment 4025289View attachment 4025295
Front water bypass joint. Connect to upper radiator hose. We replace this hose when replacing radiator or if past useful life.
There's also a, throttle body thermostat small hose water hose, rarely replaced.
4.7L 2UZ-fe VVt picture.
View attachment 4025300
Non VVT 98-05
View attachment 4025304

I truly appreciate your explanation and detailed answer. Thank you.