Compound Turbos on a 2nd Edition B Engine

[bsweaty]

so I pulled apart the spare automatic timer I have and looks like I’ve taken all the washers out of it for my Motor. however, the dimensions that they need to be are 14 mm OD 8 mm ID and then varying thicknesses as per the manual of 0.1 mm 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm
Here’s some photos of just taking one apart. They’re not too hard. It’s all done by hand. Just need some pliers to remove the circlip and two pry bars to remove the bearing

Also included are the pages from the manual discussing the automatic timer

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@Busted Crank you’re a hero! I’m gonna order some up tonight. Thank you so much. Your timing’s perfect, I’m just getting my turbo fit.

 

[Busted Crank]

@Busted Crank you’re a hero! I’m gonna order some up tonight. Thank you so much. Your timing’s perfect, I’m just getting my turbo fit.

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Are you still going compound? Or just a single turbo now?

 

[bsweaty]

Are you still going compound? Or just a single turbo now?

Single CT26 Mamba designed for the 14bt is where I wound up. I ended up with a 11bt manifold as well and everything is bolting up. I would have never had space for compounds reasonably, in retrospect.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Single CT26 Mamba designed for the 14bt is where I wound up. I ended up with a 11bt manifold as well and everything is bolting up. I would have never had space for compounds reasonably, in retrospect.

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Is that one of the Chinese 14B-T turbo manifolds from eBay? What's the quality like?

By chance, I got my 15B-T (same as 14B-T) manifold machined flat today to remedy warping.

Are you keeping the Bii intake manifold? What will you do for piping frpm the turbo to the intake?

 

[bsweaty]

Is that one of the Chinese 14B-T turbo manifolds from eBay? What's the quality like?

By chance, I got my 15B-T (same as 14B-T) manifold machined flat today to remedy warping.

Are you keeping the Bii intake manifold? What will you do for piping frpm the turbo to the intake?

@Eurasiaoverland https://www.unicornpowersystem.com.au/ProductView.aspx?ID=1426. this i the exhaust manifold I ended up using. quality seems decent. mount flange is around 10mm thick, so is the turbo flange, pipe is around 1/8" thick. welds seem acceptable. I did quite a bit of fab to make it fit the turbo the way I needed in my engine bay on my mid engine van. I can't say how well it'll hold up until I see 1200 egts. I will also be wrapping the whole thing in exhaust tape as I am basically sitting on it when I drive. where did you get your 15bt exhaust manifold from? seem good?

I'll be keeping the stock intake manifold and piping air over accordingly via intercooler. all will be custom. i haven't decided on piping size yet, either 1.5" or 2" will be what I can use. I don't have much space to work with, so it'll be a delicate and slow install. hot side to intercooler will be more straightforward than intercooler to intake. intake to turbo is a challenge too, this van has two air intakes factory. a lower pulling filtered intake, and a high clean air intake. you can switch in the cab, I am planning on keeping both and merging that pipe over / in front of / behind the engine. BUT I haven't found the simplest path yet.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

@Eurasiaoverland https://www.unicornpowersystem.com.au/ProductView.aspx?ID=1426. this i the exhaust manifold I ended up using. quality seems decent. mount flange is around 10mm thick, so is the turbo flange, pipe is around 1/8" thick. welds seem acceptable. I did quite a bit of fab to make it fit the turbo the way I needed in my engine bay on my mid engine van. I can't say how well it'll hold up until I see 1200 egts. I will also be wrapping the whole thing in exhaust tape as I am basically sitting on it when I drive. where did you get your 15bt exhaust manifold from? seem good?

I'll be keeping the stock intake manifold and piping air over accordingly via intercooler. all will be custom. i haven't decided on piping size yet, either 1.5" or 2" will be what I can use. I don't have much space to work with, so it'll be a delicate and slow install. hot side to intercooler will be more straightforward than intercooler to intake. intake to turbo is a challenge too, this van has two air intakes factory. a lower pulling filtered intake, and a high clean air intake. you can switch in the cab, I am planning on keeping both and merging that pipe over / in front of / behind the engine. BUT I haven't found the simplest path yet.


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Thanks for the detailed reply, good to know the manifold seems OK. Are the extra mounting bolt holes on the flange to allow it to fit the old 8 bolt design of head (pre-1988)?

My 15B-T came from a Mega Cruiser, ex Japan Defense Force. Low km but somehow the manifold had a lot of warp. I expect this is because it is such a large and complex shape.

I don't really have time to fit the intercooler to my BJ60, though I have the Mega Cruiser intercooler. It's not a cross-flow type and I would have to switch the battery to the RH side to fit the piping to the vehicle.

I believe that the 15B-T and 15B-FT use 54 mm OD (ca. 2.25") intake piping. They don't have the butterfly valve which the NA engines had.

 

[bsweaty]

so I pulled apart the spare automatic timer I have and looks like I’ve taken all the washers out of it for my Motor. however, the dimensions that they need to be are 14 mm OD 8 mm ID and then varying thicknesses as per the manual of 0.1 mm 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm
Here’s some photos of just taking one apart. They’re not too hard. It’s all done by hand. Just need some pliers to remove the circlip and two pry bars to remove the bearing

Also included are the pages from the manual discussing the automatic timer

View attachment 4006165

View attachment 4006167

View attachment 4006170 Got

so I pulled apart the spare automatic timer I have and looks like I’ve taken all the washers out of it for my Motor. however, the dimensions that they need to be are 14 mm OD 8 mm ID and then varying thicknesses as per the manual of 0.1 mm 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm
Here’s some photos of just taking one apart. They’re not too hard. It’s all done by hand. Just need some pliers to remove the circlip and two pry bars to remove the bearing

Also included are the pages from the manual discussing the automatic timer

View attachment 4006165

View attachment 4006167

View attachment 4006170

@Busted Crank I’ve got a doozy here. What year is your motor? I definitely don’t have an automatic timer and I have a ‘93 motor.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Automatic timers come on engines with inline injection pumps. Rotary pumps have internally regulated dynamic advance and have the plain pulley that you picture here.

 

[Busted Crank]

@Busted Crank I’ve got a doozy here. What year is your motor? I definitely don’t have an automatic timer and I have a ‘93 motor.

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My apologies, I didn’t realize the rotary pumps didn’t have that timer, as per Eurasia overland. I guess you will have to find out how to lock it out in the pump then

 

[bsweaty]

Automatic timers come on engines with inline injection pumps. Rotary pumps have internally regulated dynamic advance and have the plain pulley that you picture here.

My apologies, I didn’t realize the rotary pumps didn’t have that timer, as per Eurasia overland. I guess you will have to find out how to lock it out in the pump then

no worries at all. i'm just curious on years. i am assuming that toyota switched over to inline pumps in 94. for my rotary pump, I believe you have to fully rebuild the pump to remove the timing advance, and that's just not something I am willing to do solo. i am going to bring down pump timing -3 degrees myself, and get some baselines numbers. if that doesn't work out, i'll ship it off to a pro for them to take care of it.

at least i gotta replace my front main seal, timing cover seal, and inspect everything else in the interim. i will admit, doing this from underneath kind of sucks without a lift.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

no worries at all. i'm just curious on years. i am assuming that toyota switched over to inline pumps in 94. for my rotary pump, I believe you have to fully rebuild the pump to remove the timing advance, and that's just not something I am willing to do solo. i am going to bring down pump timing -3 degrees myself, and get some baselines numbers. if that doesn't work out, i'll ship it off to a pro for them to take care of it.

at least i gotta replace my front main seal, timing cover seal, and inspect everything else in the interim. i will admit, doing this from underneath kind of sucks without a lift.

All Bii (1988+) engines have rotary injection pumps. Not sure why you think 1994 was a changover year; it was not. The earlier B engine was mostly supplied with an inline pump, though JDM Dynas with the B had rotary pumps from about 1980 from memory.

The only B engine that later got an inline pump was the 15B-FT in certain markets.

To change the static timing of your pump, you rotate it relative to the engine. This however is defined by plunger stroke, not degrees like on a spark ignition engine. What do you mean by 'baseline' numbers? Surely baseline should be the original factory settings?

To change dynamic advance you change the spring tension using the adjuster in the cover of the timing piston on the bottom of the pump. This changes the rate at which the timing advances based on engine load. You can also fit a spacer to the cover to allow greater maximum advance. Neither of these things require the pump to be completely dismantled (just two bolts). However, it's something best left to someone who has both detailed understanding and practical expertise tuning these pumps.

 

[bsweaty]

All Bii (1988+) engines have rotary injection pumps. Not sure why you think 1994 was a changover year; it was not. The earlier B engine was mostly supplied with an inline pump, though JDM Dynas with the B had rotary pumps from about 1980 from memory.

The only B engine that later got an inline pump was the 15B-FT in certain markets.

To change the static timing of your pump, you rotate it relative to the engine. This however is defined by plunger stroke, not degrees like on a spark ignition engine. What do you mean by 'baseline' numbers? Surely baseline should be the original factory settings?

To change dynamic advance you change the spring tension using the adjuster in the cover of the timing piston on the bottom of the pump. This changes the rate at which the timing advances based on engine load. You can also fit a spacer to the cover to allow greater maximum advance. Neither of these things require the pump to be completely dismantled (just two bolts). However, it's something best left to someone who has both detailed understanding and practical expertise tuning these pumps.

Thanks for the details here, this is gold for me... Burt please excuse my naiveness to these vehicles... Here in the USA, I have yet to know another person with a similar engine. The B engine may be commonplace elsewhere, but I don't believe any B engine was every sold factory in the states. I know a handful are here via imports, namely older Landcruisers so I do the best I can with the tools that I have, which isn't much. This forum has been incredibly helpful and I am learning as I go.

I thought 1994 was a changeover year because I have found two B engine service manuals. One from 1988 and one from 1994. The one from 1994 has a diagram of the automatic timer. The 1988 does not.

I have a pump plunger measurement tool. For baseline settings I was going to set the pump around 11 degrees BTDC by rotating the pump. The numbers I was going to refer to are EGTs, exhaust pressure, and boost pressure. Combine this with ease of start, smoke / RPMs, backfiring, pinging, etc I feel like I could make adjustments to dial in a healthy turbo'd B engine at low boost, say 12psi.

If adjusting timing advance of this pump is really that easy, I just might. I become hesitant to do these things on this van because parts simply don't exist here. I had to wait 2 months for spare lug nuts from japan. In retrospect, I should have just bugged my friend to use his lathe.

My pump part number is Toyota 22100-56290. Do you have any info if this is a pump that I could adjust timing advance on from removing that plate like you said?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Ah, I see. Yes the manuals are confusing; the 1994 manual seems to cover older and newer versions of the B engines (the giveaway is that it covers the 13B, which never got a major update or rotary pump). The 1988 manual (RM132E) is the one to use; this specifically covers the second generation B engines which were launched in 1988.

I don't think any B engine was ever sold in the US, but I may have overlooked something. Must be annoying to have such a dearth of parts and experience over there.

Where does 11 deg BTDC come from? I would use the plunger stroke setting from the manual (1.27 - 1.32 mm) as a baseline and see how much advance you can get away with before it starts knocking (which is bad). I have never played with adjusting dynamic advance and would leave this to a shop to pproperly set up.

The diagram for your pump seems to indicate that the cover does not have an adjuster nut, and would need to be adjusted with shims. But the diagrams are just a schematic. A picture of your pump will be helpful.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I'm not sure what your aim is in increasing your timing advance, I would pay attention to this sage advice:

Adding boost increases compression temperatures and burn speed already, so advancing timing more is a very bad thing. Especially on engines that weren't intended to be turbocharged.

EGT is only an indication of cylinder temperature. Advancing timing gives you cooler measured EGT but higher in cylinder temperatures (for the same fuel and boost). Likewise retarding timing gives you hotter measured EGT but cooler in cylinder temperatures.

My advice is to keep timing at factory NA marks when turbocharging engines like these. Retarding timing can be used to drop cylinder pressures/temperatures but hurts efficiency and cold-starting.
It's the combination of boost/fuel/timing that dictates cylinder pressures/temperatures. First things you need to keep safe are boost and fuel.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Drop this in and forget about IDI worries. Turbo it if you want. Brilliant engine, all major parts should still be available (no affiliation with seller on my part).

SOLD Thread 'Orlando, FL - BU66 14B Engine 19000-58481'

Nov 25, 2025

Selling my 14B 3.7L DI non turbo engine that I imported from Japan.

It’s out of a 1991 Toyota Dyna BU66PDFT.

Comes as shown in pictures with everything on it, showed 86,685 KM at the time of purchase.

I’m asking $6500 plus the ride.

Any questions please feel free to message me.

Thanks.

• Quicksand
• Replies: 3
• Forum: Classifieds: Diesel & JDM

• 

 

[Busted Crank]

I'm not sure what your aim is in increasing your timing advance, I would pay attention to this sage advice:

He is trying to reduce the timing advance, to allow for safe boost

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

He is trying to reduce the timing advance, to allow for safe boost

Ah my bad, I got the impression he was trying to advance things.

 

[bsweaty]

Ah, I see. Yes the manuals are confusing; the 1994 manual seems to cover older and newer versions of the B engines (the giveaway is that it covers the 13B, which never got a major update or rotary pump). The 1988 manual (RM132E) is the one to use; this specifically covers the second generation B engines which were launched in 1988.

I don't think any B engine was ever sold in the US, but I may have overlooked something. Must be annoying to have such a dearth of parts and experience over there.

Where does 11 deg BTDC come from? I would use the plunger stroke setting from the manual (1.27 - 1.32 mm) as a baseline and see how much advance you can get away with before it starts knocking (which is bad). I have never played with adjusting dynamic advance and would leave this to a shop to pproperly set up.

The diagram for your pump seems to indicate that the cover does not have an adjuster nut, and would need to be adjusted with shims. But the diagrams are just a schematic. A picture of your pump will be helpful.

I am looking to reduce timing from 14*-11*. I found this on the internet in one of the repair manuals. If the B engine comes at 14 degrees and has an advance of 6 or 7, reducing timing a few degrees should help with safer boost like @Busted Crank has experienced. That being said, I will be monitoring exhaust pressure, egt's, and boost pressure. With those three, I should be able to dial in timing appropirately.

As far as buying that 14B engine and turboing that, it is enticing. But I could likely import a 15BFT for the same amount as what it would cost to get that 14B to my door. I do have a 14BT exhaust manifold and turbo already on my B engine, so again that 14BT engine is enticing. I just think for that price, it's not worthwhile at the moment. It's also over 2000 miles away. I can buy a Cummins 4BT(which is about the same size as the Toyota B engines) here for much less which has infinite support and the crux of that is that I would need to make is a conversion plate to get the bellhousing to match up.

For ease of time and energy while I am 4x4 converting this van, strapping up a turbo to the engine in place seemed like the path of least resistance to help with the new gears and bigger tires.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I am looking to reduce timing from 14*-11*. I found this on the internet in one of the repair manuals. If the B engine comes at 14 degrees and has an advance of 6 or 7, reducing timing a few degrees should help with safer boost like @Busted Crank has experienced. That being said, I will be monitoring exhaust pressure, egt's, and boost pressure. With those three, I should be able to dial in timing appropirately.

View attachment 4037686

As far as buying that 14B engine and turboing that, it is enticing. But I could likely import a 15BFT for the same amount as what it would cost to get that 14B to my door. I do have a 14BT exhaust manifold and turbo already on my B engine, so again that 14BT engine is enticing. I just think for that price, it's not worthwhile at the moment. It's also over 2000 miles away. I can buy a Cummins 4BT(which is about the same size as the Toyota B engines) here for much less which has infinite support and the crux of that is that I would need to make is a conversion plate to get the bellhousing to match up.

For ease of time and energy while I am 4x4 converting this van, strapping up a turbo to the engine in place seemed like the path of least resistance to help with the new gears and bigger tires.

You are again confusing information from an inline pump (setting timing by crank angle) which is not relevant to your rotary pump. Do as you please with the timing, but I would baseline the engine at the plunger stroke depth in the RM132E manual, then reduce the stroke by .2 to .3 mm and see what happens. I'm not sure why, when you say you have the tool to do it correctly, you still want to do it the wrong way. Is there even a graduated scale of crank angle on your timing case cover? How are you going to relate the injection pump position to crank angle?

 

[bsweaty]

You are again confusing information from an inline pump (setting timing by crank angle) which is not relevant to your rotary pump. Do as you please with the timing, but I would baseline the engine at the plunger stroke depth in the RM132E manual, then reduce the stroke by .2 to .3 mm and see what happens. I'm not sure why, when you say you have the tool to do it correctly, you still want to do it the wrong way. Is there even a graduated scale of crank angle on your timing case cover? How are you going to relate the injection pump position to crank angle?

Gotcha. How I've adjusted timing on VE/Rotary pumps in the past... Mainly Cummins. Set the engine to TDC, set a dial indicator on cylinder #1 plunger, rotate the engine back until the plunger stops moving, reset the gauge, and see how much movement plunger #1 moves up in the pump. From there, get your baseline movement(check it against the manual) and rotate your pump towards or away from the pump appropriately to go up or down in timing, recheck plunger movement to confirm.