My wife, Ana Maria, and I had the good fortune to meet Coen & Karin in January after receiving a message from BJ40Green in Costa Rica that a couple of countrymen were in Cuenca. We enjoyed a wonderful afternoon visit then and knowing they were traveling to Quito and would come back through on their way to Peru we invited them to stop by on the way back. At the time I was in the middle of a complete re-wire on my 1970 FJ40. Gladly they accepted our invitation and came in on Friday evening and stayed until this morning, Monday, 3MAR14. We enjoyed laughter, visiting, a little work, and good food with everyone chipping in to prepare some tasty dishes and desserts. You folks in the USA will someday have the opportunity to share their company and should keep up with their travels in order to offer a place to rest, shower, do laundry and visit. You will be rewarded with great stories. I have started my X-Acto knife work and will post a picture once I have it put together. Thanks Coen, and no I didn't make any copies before cutting! But if the day looks promising tomorrow I will modify the rear leaf springs as we discussed. Thanks for the tips and observations. Love you both, Lenny y Ana Maria Ledoux.
I'll have to go back and see what forum is closing on 18MAR14. Hope it isn't the Mud forum altogether.
So here is the Paper Cruiser of Coen & Karin's rig. Could be fun for you guys with kids or grandkids. You could show them how to use an X-Acto knife. Might want to get two though, so you can practice before showing them your skills.
Check out the fellow's website, papercruisers.com, his name is Jesse Smith and he has several selections available. You purchase a download that you would then print out. I was fortunate in that Coen was at my house and he has worked with Jesse to create this version of the LandCruising Adventure rig and he printed out the two pages for me.
So... After being away for a while I decided to come back here with a question:
Next up is a little problem with the Sedimenter [this image is a bottom view]. This is the water separator from the diesel fuel line which sits inline right next to the fuel tank on the outside of the frame.
It got damaged a long time ago on some trails in Asia, so the little screw that sits normally at the bottom sits a bit at an angle right now. No worries there.
But last year I saw some little drops of diesel hanging on the bottom and I smeared some bondo on it. Never seen diesel drops hanging there again.
Until this week. Some of the bondo has chipped off and I see some drops of diesel hanging there again.
I have taken the sedimenter off and cleaned the gunk inside.
Due to age, I guess the bottom of the sedimenter has become rusted or maybe even porous.
What are my best options of fixing this one apart from the temporary bondo?
Hi Coen, thanks for sharing. You may want to try an epoxy, like J-B Weld to seal the leak.
You also may want to look at the Puma 12 volt air compressor for onboard air. The Puma has gotten a number of good reviews. There's a thread in the camping section on the Puma.
A coffee can? Maybe a poly kind of tank with a little skid plate under it. Got access to a plastic welder? I forget if the sedimenter has anything special going on inside.. i think it was just making use of the fact that diesel floats in water. So all you are after is a container with a drain and ways to attach the hoses adequately.
I would happily send you my sedimenter and find another around here, but it isn't in good shape to last much longer with the travel you are doing. It came from a rusty truck.
Nothing special going on inside the filter, it's just a sturdy recipient.
What can or can't I do welding wise. I mean here in Peru a new imported "cheap" filter will cost me a forture. Even JB weld or something similar is imported and will cost much more than 2 or 3 hours of labour.
So I thought of sanding it down and copper weld it? Or any other idea?
Coen, I'm not a diesel guy so I'm not familiar with the component. However, you didn't mention what it is made of. Another question in my mind is whether or not there is any pressure inside this canister. These two concerns are important. If it is made of cheap casting then welding is out of the question, although brazing might be in order. If there is pressure inside this makes it much harder to effect a repair. You mentioned that you glued it once before, this would indicate no pressure. So I would look at cleaning it up thoroughly and then brazing which is relatively low heat but gets a good flow of material.
How are our rear axle seals holding up? When do you and Karin head for The Netherlands? We have a new addition to the family. We rescued and then "adopted" a one year old German Sheperd.
A sedimenter from a Toyota Dyna/Hino Dutro should work, with some tinkering. Otherwise, try the weld. Just make sure the surfaces are thoroughly clean of diesel. It is hard to fire up, but it will light up at the torch's temperature.