Clutch Cylinders keep failing
- Thread starter badsamaritan
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- Thread starter
- #42
Using the clutch arm I was able to push it in, I'm not sure if I could push it by hand alone. I'll try in a few
If that's the case it sounds like the rod isn't long enuff. The pp should push the piston back into the bore to a point, then the return spring pulls it back more so the throw bearing isn't in contact with the pp springs when at rest.
- Thread starter
- #44
Ok, I had it setup so the to bearing was just off of the clutch fingers at rest
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- Thread starter
- #45
Does the clutch arm pivot ball come into play at all? Mines adjustable and it looks like it's threaded as far out of the back of the bell as possible towards the trans
That is the correct setup, but the piston needs to start further back in the bore to keep it in the bore. I prefer fully retracted. I think a longer rod or moving the slave closer to the fork should be help.
Probably. It's a lever, the height of the fulcrum should effect its throw or lifting height along with its location on the fork.
- Thread starter
- #48
I'll grab a longer piece of threaded rod today and make a longer pushrod out of it and start the piston off at the bottom
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- #51
My thinking is if I bring the the pivot ball closer to the clutch pp maybe that will help shorten the throw required and keep the piston lower in the bore
I know I played with all this before and I got into the situation where I could the clutch to engage and disengage but the TO could never clear the fingers. I'll give it another shot
I know I played with all this before and I got into the situation where I could the clutch to engage and disengage but the TO could never clear the fingers. I'll give it another shot
- Thread starter
- #52
I just shoved the piston all the way in the bore and then put the to bearing against the fingers. The wedge and the nut had to come forward about 1.5" to touch the clutch arm.
Did a quick check and that seems like a big improvement and a quick bump check shows I can get it in gear and it releases fine.
Did a quick check and that seems like a big improvement and a quick bump check shows I can get it in gear and it releases fine.
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Nice sometimes you have to do it that way to make sure the piston is fully retracted. Tighten the push rod up as fsr as it will go and then back it off and set the gap. I would put a bigger return spring on it also maybe yours is to week, you want that return spring to pull that piston all the way back into its bore. Do you have a return spring up under the dash for the clutch pedal ?
- Thread starter
- #54
I pulled a brand new one out of the box and they ship with the piston at the edge of the bore. I think I just threw it in there and never thought to force it to the bottom. I went for a drive and it drove great. I'll check a few things and maybe re adjust the pedal but so far so good. I have return springs on the pedal and at the slave
Flush helps protect the bore in while in storage. Well done getting it sorted out.
Sounds like you got it figured out. Just want to add, in case it can help somone else:
I had a return spring on as well, but I changed out the mounting bracket for it and it changed out the return power that it had. Just make sure the spring actually works as it should. Doesn't hurt to check.
My spring was causing the fork to not fully retract and the throwout bearing was occasionally touching the fingers of the clutch. That was happening without me touching the clutch pedal while I was driving. I verified it by removing the bellhousing inspection cover and looking underneath while the vehicle was on (be careful not to get you head or fingers caught by the spinning flywheel if you do this, kinda sketchy).
Lastly, just make sure to check the play of your clutch fork after you stepped on the clutch pedal. Stepping on the pedal will ensure that the piston is fully extended and you can get the correct play (I think it's 3mm). This step is not mentioned in the repair manuals but it's very important.
It's happened to me where I push in the slave rod to loosen the nut and make my adjustments. Doing this will result in incorrect final adjustment. It's okay to push in the slave rod to take it out, etc, but you must make your final 3mm adjustment with the cltuch pedal pressed, at least once , to ensure that the slave piston is fully extended against the slave rod.
I had a return spring on as well, but I changed out the mounting bracket for it and it changed out the return power that it had. Just make sure the spring actually works as it should. Doesn't hurt to check.
My spring was causing the fork to not fully retract and the throwout bearing was occasionally touching the fingers of the clutch. That was happening without me touching the clutch pedal while I was driving. I verified it by removing the bellhousing inspection cover and looking underneath while the vehicle was on (be careful not to get you head or fingers caught by the spinning flywheel if you do this, kinda sketchy).
Lastly, just make sure to check the play of your clutch fork after you stepped on the clutch pedal. Stepping on the pedal will ensure that the piston is fully extended and you can get the correct play (I think it's 3mm). This step is not mentioned in the repair manuals but it's very important.
It's happened to me where I push in the slave rod to loosen the nut and make my adjustments. Doing this will result in incorrect final adjustment. It's okay to push in the slave rod to take it out, etc, but you must make your final 3mm adjustment with the cltuch pedal pressed, at least once , to ensure that the slave piston is fully extended against the slave rod.
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