Chemistry and your parking brake bell cranks

[uHu]

Ceramic grease for bellcranks. Nonmetallic, waterresistant.

 

[Steamer88]

As an electrician we use Nolox on dissimilar metals, particularly on copper to aluminum connections, it prevents the oxidation of the aluminum. I wonder how it would work for the bell crank block?

 

[94SRUNNER]

I've got to rebuild the bellcrank in my DS parking brake. Does anyone have part numbers and or the service manual diagrams for repair?

I found them:
90506-20033 - Parking Brake Tension Spring
90213-06013 - Parking Brake C Washer
90249-08075 - Bell Crank Pin
47624-60022 - Right Hand Bell Crank
47625-60022 - Left Hand Bell Crank
47628-60010 - Right Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Bracket
47629-60010 - Left Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Bracket
47633-60010 - Right Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Boot
47634-60010 - Left Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Boot
91611-G0820 - Bolt With Washer
47639-30020 - Bell Crank Stopper Bolt
94110-40600 - Nut
90213-04001 - Parking Brake C Washer

Anyone determine a good water resistant grease to help extend the rebuild interval?

 

[abuck99]

^same stuff I used on my caliper slide pins: Silaramic- filled the boots with it.

Silaramic® Brake System Grease, 9 Wt Oz

 

[SlowBuild]

Just did this last night. My parking brake handle hasn’t been able to budge since I bought the truck in May. Both sides were seized solid together. The driver’s side was actually shattered and disintegrated, who knows how long it’s been this way:

Passenger side wasn’t too much better, though appears to have been replaced previously:

I got the kit and replaced all the parts. I used this grease:

Silaramic® Brake System Grease, 9 Wt Oz

My shoes are in pretty bad shape too, but I don’t have the parts in hand. I’ll replace this broken one for sure:

Hardest part was getting the rear shoe back on with the two little caps. I followed FSM for adjusting shoes and bell cranks and ended up with very different positions for both stopper bolt and adjuster wheel compared to how the old ones had been set. I’m headed out for a drive now to set the shoes and then adjust the handle. At least it moves now!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Wow, super crusty. It's funny that they get so bad but the rubber boot stays somewhat pliable.

I wouldn't stress too much about that brake shoe, they don't drag to stop like the regular brake pads, they just hold in place.

 

[white_lx]

For anyone interested, Cruiser Parts also has a combined kit for fully replacing the hardware for both Bellcranks.
Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07 [BRAKE-HARD-93-07] - $119.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

Bought this kit as well. Nice to be able to buy everything at once. Make sure you remove the anti-rattle clip from the old arms (Part Number: 9046803006). I almost missed it as there was a lot of dirt on the arms. May I suggest to include these in the kit?

 

[Ddpete1]

Going to tear into my rear brakes to replace rotors and brake pads this weekend. Had the pads replaced and rotors turned in March by the stealership, but driver side had backside pad down to the metal already. Suspecting something is going on with that caliper that I will need to figure out. Could it be the slide pins need greased?

My E-brake has been frozen since I bought the vehicle a year ago. Can’t even budge the parking brake handle. I haven’t worried about it because I never use it and can’t think why I would need to. Should I just leave well enough alone and not mess with re-building while I’m in there or is there a good reason to do this now?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you've got the rotors off and the parking brake isn't working I don't know why you wouldn't replace it.

 

[uHu]

...I never use it and can’t think why I would need to. Should I just leave well enough alone and not mess with re-building while I’m in there or is there a good reason to do this now?

The E-brake is (nearly) everything you've got the day your booster decides to go. And that's WHEN, not IF.

 

[Ddpete1]

The E-brake is (nearly) everything you've got the day your booster decides to go. And that's WHEN, not IF.

Now you have my attention. Hadn’t thought of that scenario.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Dusting this one off and giving it a bump into 2020...

So...after much reading I believe I've learned that the sign of the failed bellcrank issue is that there is no action in one or both sides of the rear wheels with the ebrake tension springs when you pull the ebrake lever.

In my case, I also am experiencing a metal on metal screeching shriek every time I hit a bump coming from the right rear. I just connected these dots and checked, and sure enough my right rear ebrake tension springs don't move when the ebrake lever is pulled/released, while the left side does move.

So looking for advice on what to do next, do I go buy the Cruiser Parts Parking Brake Lever Kit 93-07 posted above and install following @Trunk Monkey steps outlined in post #1? Or is there any easier/more immediate fix to troubleshoot prior to going full replacement? Only reason I'm asking is that my parking brake works well/normal other than the right rear issue. I'm thinking I should go full replace mode to kill the issue for good...just need a push over the cliff I think.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Depends if it's stuck engaged or not. If not, then when you're setting the brake you're only holding one side. You can try to lubricate and get your current stuff working, but I've found they're usually corroded to the point of no motion. Also maybe not related to your "shriek".

 

[Superdude]

Great info, and even better timing. When I bought my 100, the DS Bellcrank was frozen. I hammered it down temporarily and plan to rebuild it this weekend.

For anyone interested, Cruiser Parts also has a combined kit for fully replacing the hardware for both Bellcranks.

http://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_109&products_id=23380

Thanks for putting this together!

Doing this job now. Thanks to the OP.

Also thank you if still around. This link from cruiser parts still works. Ordered the complete kit and it arrived very fast, like 3 days. Cheers!

Edit: my bell crank mount was completely shattered. My hunch was correct to rebuild this stuff.

 

[Gnarwgn]

good work - ended up doing the same, and e-brake has worked ever since. Also fixed the 'shriek' mentioned earlier - which was the corroded aluminum on steel noise within the bellcrank hardware.

 

[HuntersHikes]

Just found this thread doing a search. My parking brake is frozen, and I got quoted $1,397 to replace. This does look like I'd be biting off more than I can chew if I did it myself, but does this seem astronomical? Thanks

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Seems pretty steep, parts are only $200ish (or less). Maybe they're doing other things - replacing rotor, e-brake pads?

 

[HuntersHikes]

I politely declined at this point.
Below is work order quote.
"replace parking brake bell crank on both sides. free center parking brake pivot and adjust parking brake shoes. bell cranks are frozen on both sides. cable clevis for cable frozen in rear so can not check cable at this time."

 

[Gnarwgn]

I politely declined at this point.
Below is work order quote.
"replace parking brake bell crank on both sides. free center parking brake pivot and adjust parking brake shoes. bell cranks are frozen on both sides. cable clevis for cable frozen in rear so can not check cable at this time."

That sounds like a ripoff. If you get the parts its really not that difficult. The shoes are the hardest part just due to the way they come apart and back together, but once you get the hang of those its pretty straightforward. I'd probably even say its a one banana job.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Curius what tool/plier did you guys use to remover the circlip of the spring? Thanks