Charity Carb Work

[77mustard40]

Gents I'm working on a neighbor's 1972 FJ55, feel free to follow along in the Iron Pig Preservation page at https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...ty/577490-elsie-went-wewewe-all-way-home.html

I pulled the carb yesterday for a rebuild and have a few questions since I don't have a 72 FSM.
First when I removed the air horn and pulled the pump plunger and spring I did not find a retainer clip holding the check ball in place. Did they have a retainer in 72 (Jan 11, 1972)?

There is not a moving cover to the pump outlet circuit, talking about the piece that comes out on later models and has another small spring and outlet check ball (without the clip). The pencil is pointing to the location.

Finally the PV did not have a jet but looks like one may screw into the bottom. I guess I will find out when the rebuild kit shows up.

 

[subzali]

Here's a couple good threads on rebuilding earlier 2 barrel carbs...
Aisan Carburetor Rebuild - 2 I 4 (Sept. 4, 1972) - he mentions a clip in post #5. Post #7 talks about the power valve.

Aisan DD38/38 Carburetor Rebuild - a '72 built carb

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks for the links, this carb clearly has some issues. I'm going to have to figure out how to get the weight on the pump outlet circuit loose and removed so I can get the spring and second check ball out; also will have to figure out how to fab a retainer clip for the pump inlet check ball.

Check out he use of permatex and beach like conditions in the fuel bowl.

 

[RicardoJM]

That DD38 carb is a bit rough, but can very likely be brought back to life.

I would try some PB blaster on top of the cap, let it soak and see if it loosens the cap enough that it will drop out when turned upside down. If that doesn't work, use the straw to shoot PB blaster up the AP pump discharge. Worst case some carefull use of the air compressor should pop that out.

After a good soak in the carb dip, the beech in the fuel bowl will be gone. With all that fine grit in the bowl, you can expect that it will be in passages as well. After dipping and blowing all the passages out, I would follow-up with carb cleaner through all the passages. You don't want any grit to mess things up when you put it all back together.

Every Keyster kit I've bought has come with a power valve. If the kit you get does not have one, shoot me a PM.

Be carefull cleaning the permatex off the spacer. Originally these spacers came with a gasket that is bonded onto it. If that gasket is there, you don't want to destroy it. Could be it is already gone and that is why they used RTV.

Do not remove any of the butterflies, unless there is a significant issue that requires you to do so. I just helped a friend rebuild hsi DD38 carb a couple of weeks ago, one of his choke shafts would bind on the spring. After some careful (which did require removing the butterfly) work to shim the shaft his choke works great.

 

[77mustard40]

I would try some PB blaster on top of the cap, let it soak and see if it loosens the cap enough that it will drop out when turned upside down. If that doesn't work, use the straw to shoot PB blaster up the AP pump discharge. Worst case some carefull use of the air compressor should pop that out.

Good call on the PB Blaster, the bowl went into the dip last night so if that doesnt loosen things up then I will progress to that followed by the back pressure suggestions.

Still need to figure out how to find or fab the little metal retainer clip that holds the inlet check ball in place.

 

[Pighead]

Second Ricardo's advice...also, most people who have been through a few of these carbs have a spare little round retainer clip or two lying around. Like me.

 

[77mustard40]

Yep this is only my second time in to a carb and the first time to find it missing. Any ideas where to look for one?

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[Pighead]

I bet one of the usual carb gurus would have piles of them...

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks, just fired an email to Jim C.

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[77mustard40]

Just pulled the bowl from the boil and was able to get the weight over the pump outlet out and found no spring! Great, just great. Add another little obscure piece to the treasure hunt.

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May have to use one of the retaining clips from my last rebuild to make a retainer for the check ball

 

[77mustard40]

So if the spring is missing under the weight in the pump exit circuit does that allow the weight to block the brass fuel passage thus preventing the accelerator pump from giving the little squirt coming off idle? Might explain why the jet was removed from the power valve; trying to rig more fuel delivery to compensate, or am I thinking about this too hard?

I'm always trying figure out why someone did what they did. Maybe they just screwed up.

 

[Pin_Head]

If you have a weight, there is no spring and visa versa.

 

[RicardoJM]

You have ball, weight and cap. That is all the parts in that hole. Your kit will have a rubber washer that goes on top of the cap.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks guys

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[FJ40Jim]

The e-ring for the pump check ball is available from the dealer.
21538-31010 RETAINER, BALL CHECK $1.63

 

[77mustard40]

The e-ring for the pump check ball is available from the dealer.
21538-31010 RETAINER, BALL CHECK $1.63

Ordered, thanks Jim

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[77mustard40]

So I'm enjoying a morning cup of Jo and started reassembling this 72 carb. Quick question since I don't have a FSM for this year, is the float set at the same 7.5mm clearance from the airhorn as indicated in my 77?

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[RicardoJM]

No, the spec in the manual is 4.1 mm - but I've consistently found that setting it to spec results in the fuel being a tad bit above the line in the sight glass. I set it to 4.1 and then adjust once it is on the truck.

 

[77mustard40]

No, the spec in the manual is 4.1 mm - but I've consistently found that setting it to spec results in the fuel being a tad bit above the line in the sight glass. I set it to 4.1 and then adjust once it is on the truck.

Thanks, I was going to be way low in the bowl.

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[77mustard40]

Ordered, thanks Jim

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Thanks again Jim, local dealership said no but found the e retainers at toyotapartszone.com

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