Center diff won’t turn off (1 Viewer)

[overlandsam]

While doing nothing cool and only taking my son to school I had an upper ball joint break. For reference I have an Ironman suspension, maybe 2.5”loft with that, with black hawk upper control arms and running 285/70/17 for tires. Other than that I am stock. I had parked on a slight upgrade. When I put the cruiser in reverse and turned the wheel I heard a loud pop. Put back in drive and went back into parking spot. Did not realize what had happened at this point. Got out and wheel had caved into springs

Called a tow truck and had delivered to my house. Noticed when I got it home that the center diff light was blinking as well as ABS and traction control. Didn’t think to much of it at the time. I got a replacement ball joint and installed. Inspected the wheel well and no wires were broken. Everything looked normal. Went to test drive and ABS and center diff still blinking. Somehow the center diff got engaged and will not disengage. I’m at a loss as to what might be going on.

Hope the long description might help any of you gurus out there in pointing me in the right direction.

 

[PDoyle]

Pull pff the pos battery cable let it sit for 1/2 hour.

 

[grinchy]

Are you sure the abs / wheel speed sensor or wire didn’t get broken?

 

[TLC2013]

What's the history (mileage and usage) of your 200 for the UCAs to fail like this. Sorry to hear, scary situation to be in. Glad it wasnt anything worse. The blackhawk UCAs look very similar if not identical to NG UCAs that I have been using for the past 30k.

 

[TLC2013]

Blackhawk had a recall for 2017-2019 years of production of their UCAs

https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/recalls/rec-004971

 

[04UZJ100]

Where are Blackhawk UCAs made? China?

 

[cboyd]

I’m thinking abs / speed sensor got damaged in some way

 

[bloc]

I’m thinking abs / speed sensor got damaged in some way

Agreed, or the wiring to it. The cord runs along the rear edge of the UCA then drops down to a bracket on the knuckle, very much in the firing line of where the tire went.

OP needs to scan the ABS system for codes.

I'd also put some effort into making sure that shock shaft isn't bent. They are not designed to be loaded like that.

 

[overlandsam]

I’ve inspected the abs line visually and no visible damage. I’ve unhooked battery and waited, no change. To questions asked about usage. Mainly highway miles but occasional light-ish off-roading. Purposefully don’t go into places that I think could get me in trouble because typically out solo. Blackhawk UCS’s are out of Australia, although could be manufactured elsewhere. Not really sure there. I don’t have a scan tool myself. Was trying to do as much as I could before I took it into dealership.

 

[bloc]

You can quickly get a carista module for $30 and if the free version of their app won’t display ABS codes a temp pro account will. Plus lots of other ways to read codes without a dealer trip.

Given what happened with that tire after the ball joint failure I could imagine the harness getting pulled and damaging the wiring inside or a splice at a connector even without any visible damage. It’s just too coincidental to not be related.

 

[Fisher23]

The abs is likely the wire going to sensor on the wheel the joint poped.

The center diff is likely NOT locked. They do that frequently until the diff warms up then you can turn the vehicle off and back on and usually it goes away.

If I had to pick one thing on the LC200 i didn't like it would be that diff lock sensor.

 

[mdh384]

I failed a wheel speed sensor harness with no visible break in the outer insulation. The wires themselves are very thin gauge and a kink in the harness will break them, while the outer harness rubber remains intact. I would pull the harness and check for continuity.

 

[CharlieS]

Getting a copy of Techstream is worth it's weight in gold. Real time monitoring of sensors will tell you what you need to know. I had an Audi that had an intermittent wheel speed sensor and the Vag-com (vw/audi equivalent to Techstream) was the only way to observe its intermittent failures.

 

[manofthewoods]

You can quickly get a carista module for $30 and if the free version of their app won’t display ABS codes a temp pro account will. Plus lots of other ways to read codes without a dealer trip.

Given what happened with that tire after the ball joint failure I could imagine the harness getting pulled and damaging the wiring inside or a splice at a connector even without any visible damage. It’s just too coincidental to not be related.

The last sentence is Occum's Razor, simple, logical explanation is the likely one. Helpful in troubleshooting.
Fingers crossed for a quick solution; it'll be interesting to find out the answer

 

[shanko]

Getting a copy of Techstream is worth it's weight in gold. Real time monitoring of sensors will tell you what you need to know. I had an Audi that had an intermittent wheel speed sensor and the Vag-com (vw/audi equivalent to Techstream) was the only way to observe its intermittent failures.

I second Charlie's comment about Techstream being invaluable. I went out and purchased a small lightweight laptop to leave in my 2008. The laptop has the electronic FSMs as well as Techstream. It connects to the OBDII port using these (V17.20.013 MINI VCI Single Cable Supports Toyota Diagnostic Software - https://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-with-toyota-tis.html). Not only will Techstream allow you to see what the codes mean, but you can also reset them, you can change settings on your vehicle (how the locks work, displays, etc.), as well as do many other "dealer only" things. There is a thread here on Mud for how to setup Techstream on your computer, along with a link to download a pre-build VM. There is also a link for the electronic copies of the FSMs.

Additionally, using Techstream gives you a code, and then you can step through the procedures for fixing the problem. I do not know how you would fix these highly-computerized vehicles without something like Techstream. I also purchased an XTOOL D8BT Automotive Diagnostic Scan Tool from Amazon (Amazon product ASIN B09N8LKGCY). That tool is awesome as well. It reads codes, gives you the descriptions of the codes, allows you to reset, has special functions like brake bleeding, can activate any of the lights and sensors, like the ABS in the dash, etc. Great tool.

 

[shanko]

BTW: I am not affiliated with any of those products or tools. And I do not get any money or anything if you order them. Just providing info that helped me out.

 

[shanko]

And here is a link to thread on the download of the FSMs -> FSM for 200 series - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsm-for-200-series.765372/page-6#post-14229850
That thread also covers how to setup the FSMs on your computer so that you can use them appropriately.