CDL Problems Need Wiring Diagram

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Portal_tek said:
I may try to do the project without lowering the t-case, but if it begins to get too tight I did see a post where someone used some longer bolts to lower it.

How long did it take you to complete the fix.

Scott
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It can be done without, but lowering it a couple of inches with the bolts made the job much easier. I rebuilt the new one and swapped them in an evening, the hardest part was prying it off of the transfer, the factory silicone is good stuff!
 
The funny thing is that the thread I was thinking about was yours with the t-case lowered with bolts.

I am going give it a try this weekend. The only thing I am worried about is that this is my only mode of transportation so I want to make sure it doesn't take too long. I think that I will give it a try without lowering the t-case due to Gumbys post on your thread. I am a little concerned about how to break the silicone seal for the first time, but I am thinking maybe a thin putty knife. If you have any advise or any info you think I may need please post.

Thanks
Scott
 
Scott,
Glad you have this thread going as I am needing to figure out what is up with mine diff's, all 3. Good luck.
 
Well, I finally removed the actuator. I didn't have to drop the t-case, and it really wasn't too bad. I just need to rember to put the long bolt in the back in before I put the assembly back.

Here is what I found out. I opened up the case and everything looked great. I didn't see any issues. I then took the cap off the electric motor, this is where I believe must be where the problem is at. I checked the bearing and it looks great, I then checked the contact points by applying 9V to the number 2 and 3 wires and check to make sure I had 9V at the contact points. Everything checked fine to this point. From here I am not sure the best way to troubleshoot, but I believe if I check for continuity between the contact surface and the brushes I shoud get a reading. I don't get anything which means to me that the windings were burnt. All but one of the windings were black.

Is is possible to have someone rewind the motor and put new brushes on? Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?

Thanks
Scott
 
The windings should not be black. That indicates either a short or the motor was stalled at some point and overheated.

To check out the windings:
At the base of the motors armature is the commutator where the brushes ride, the contacts on the commutator work in pairs, each pair should have continuity to each other but not have continuity to the armature nor to any other contacts, the pairs should have a consistent resistance, if one set of windings has a lot more or a lot less resistance it can indicate a short or partial open, use very fine sand paper to polish the commutator you do not want to change the shape or make it out of round you just want to clean the surface, afterwards take a pick and clean out the grooves between the contacts to make sure no conductive dust (brush material etc) is shorting between them, blow off with compressed air if available, the wires in the winding look bare but are not, they are coated with a thin insulating varnish, try not to disturb this varnish,

If the windings are questionable a good shop can put the armature on a tester called a "growler", most towns have an alternator and starter shop, this would be a good place to start to find someone to rewind the armature, you want to find a competent technician, those are getting harder to find this will cost some money but should be much less than a new actuator from Toyota.

Some other things to look at, in the cover of the motor are 4 magnets, are you certain that none of them are loose or have shifted?

Where the armature shaft sit sin the housing, at the far end from the motor on the other side from the worm gear can get plugged with silt, clean and lube this area with grease along with the other end in the motor cap, reassemble the motor into the housing without putting in the big gear, see if it will spin on 9v, if not try loosening the motor cap screws slightly to take the bind out of the shaft see if it will spin again,


Can you take any pictures of the different parts? Might help to determine condition.
 
Here are the first few
 
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Here are the next
 
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With the exception of the overheated windings that thing looks cherry, no water has gotten it, that is what gets many actuators, when you put it back together make sure you lube those o-rings with grease or dielectric grease so they continue to seal well, also lube the contact plate where the limit switches ride.

The windings do look baked though, to bad you cannot just get an armature from Toyota and slap it back together,

Take those brush springs out for now and put them in a safe place, they are easy to drop and loose wile you are handling the housing. when you go to put them back together make some clips out of wire to hold the brushes and springs back wile you slide the armature back in. see pic
BrushClip.webp
 
BTW the brushes look fine, plenty of meat left, no need to do anything with those,
 
Well, I checked the resistance between the commutator pairs and each test exactly the same and the reading was .08. I also checked the magnets and they are in great shape and have not moved at all.

I next took out the big gear with the springs and tested the motor in the bare case. This time the motor worked:D I reversed polartiy and the motor worked both directions and was running very quietly and smoothly. The cap was tight and didn't seem to bind anything.

There was some sort of goo on the magnet side, I believe you can see it in the picture with the magnets, it is hardened drops of something.

I am going to go get some grease and sandpaper to do the cleaning and see if that will help it turn the gear. Do you have any ideas on what may be binding the motor with the gear in? What is the best grease to use?

Thanks
Scott
 
Portal_tek said:
Well, I checked the resistance between the commutator pairs and each test exactly the same and the reading was .08. I also checked the magnets and they are in great shape and have not moved at all.
Click to expand...

Check the resistance between the commutator pads and the motor shaft, it should be infinite. The epoxy lumps on the windings are balance weights.

Portal_tek said:
There was some sort of goo on the magnet side, I believe you can see it in the picture with the magnets, it is hardened drops of something.
Click to expand...

I believe it's a spray sealer, clear coat, epoxy maybe? To keep moisture from the magnets? If it's not rubbing on the armature, causing motor bind I wouldn't worry or remove it.
 
I checked the resistance between the commutator pads and the motor shaft and found they are all infinite.

Looking at the magnets it looks like the motor hasn't moved for so long that it built up some sort of film. I believe this film may have been what was preventing the motor from turning. I am going to carefully clean the film off the magnets as well as clean the brushes with an emery cloth. Hopefully this will work.

Thanks
Scott
 
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the goo on the magnets is the glue used to stick them to the cap, I agree with tools I would not mess with it as long as it clears the armature, the magnets have a nasty habit of breaking frre, they need all the goo they can get.

one posibility is the grease dried up and the motor could no longer turn that mecanisim, being stalled the relay never shut off the current and the windings got hot discolored but aparently still functional despite the nasty look.

you coudl try lubing both ends of the motor shaft, both ends of the "big gear" shaft, the worm gear and the big gear, and the contact plate on the big gear with a non conductive grease (most grease is non conductive) put it all together and see if it now turns on 9v,
 
make sure if it turns on 9v that you assemble it while running it each step of the way...Raven can attest to why :)
 
agree'd spin it each step of the way and when it stops turning find out whats binding.
 
Sounds good, I don't want to cause any future problems. I will make sure I have clearance then leave it alone. I will head to the store tomorrow to get some grease and grease all the parts you suggested then I will post up the results, and I will keep checking its movement.

Thanks again
Scott
 
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Well, here is the conclusion. I went and bought some di-electric grease and a cleaning pad then I started cleaning. I cleaned what I could and sprayed it off with electric parts cleaner then started greasing. I greased everywhere that was stated in the previous post as well as the seals. I kept checking the movement during the install and everything kept moving well. I put sealant on the mating surfaces and the bolts and put it back together. The book gives a hint the it would be better to put it together locked, but I couldn't lock the center so I decided to keep it unlocked during the install. Everything bolted up and tightened perfectly. I can shift it into the locked and unlock position without any hesitation.

I just want to thank everyone who helped me in this process. It is nice to know there is such a wealth of information so close. Hopefully one day I can return the favor to someone else.

Thanks
Scott
 
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